APRIL 09

Jamie Oliver cooked for the delegates of G20 this month, highlighting the best of British food. The main course was shoulder of lamb from North Wales. It is a pity they didn't serve suckling lamb (lamb fed only on its mother's milk); formerly known as house lamb, and bred especially for the Christmas market; it is now unusual to see very young lamb for sale in Britain.

Known as agneau de lait des Pyrénées, or agneau de Pauillac (from Bordeaux), this delicacy is still very much sought after in France. The Spaniards, Italians and Portuguese also hold the meat in high esteem, and the Greeks roast it on a spit, as a special Easter treat.

Milk-fed lamb is meat from an unweaned lamb, typically 4 to 6 weeks old, weighing between 5.5 to 8 kg. As it is fed only on its mother's milk, the meat is free from antibiotics and hormones, and is considered the best lamb money can buy. The texture of the meat is exceedingly tender, the flesh is pale, and the taste is fantastically subtle. Although mostly grilled or roasted, it can be served in many ways.

Where can you find it in Hong Kong? Caprice and Cépage both do excellent dishes. And for members of HKJC, the Derby Room is running a promotion of Pauillac lamb right now.

FF