We will literally travel to the edges of the New Territories to try famous, iconic and mouthwatering delicacies. This month, our stomachs had the hankering for sweet glorious beancurd!

Only One Standing

Hong Kong boasts a total territory of over 1,100 square kilometres and it is often a shock to most to learn that more than half of that land is protected Country Park. While we do not boast alpine horns or hairy yaks, the lush terrain of Sai Kung is home to Cheung Sheung's "Mountaintop MacDonald's" - a dai pai dong which sits aloft the peninsula on a plateau of nirvana, famous for its soybean milk and sweet beancurd pudding.

Surrounded by mountains, Cheung Sheung lies in the junction of several hiking trails and serves as a key supply point for nearby campers and visitors. Only half a century ago, the area was inhabited by four small villages who inhabitants toiled growing rice and raising pigs. Once a thriving community of more than 20 households, the Hui Lam Store, or the "Mountaintop MacDonald's" today is the only active building found for miles while other villages are either collapsed or abandoned. 

Remote Taste

So what brings the faithful to the highest kiosk in Hong Kong? Stream water beancurd pudding, fresh soybean milk and herbal tea. And its famous lemon-flavoured beancurd pudding. To enjoy these delights you have to walk - uphill. We did and boy was it worth it!

Instead of glitzy chandeliers and posh tables, Hui Lam Store is a down-to-earth business, which is furnished with hand-made benches, wooden tables and a canvas covered ceiling. Pot plants and herds of cows create a splendid backdrop while the music filtering into the restaurant is the bird song of nature.

The remoteness may be a hindrance for some establishments, but in the case of Cheung Sheung's "Mountaintop MacDonald's", the ends (silky smooth beancurd) justify the means (steep concreted path)!

The quickest way to head up is through Sai Kung town, where one can take a bus to the start of Hoi Ha Road. Hike following the trail marker for ‘Cheung Shan Country Trail' towards Pak Tam Chung for about 45 minutes. While most huff and puff, struggling to conquer distance with their own feet, others, who are less apt to hike can arrive in style by helicopter!

The Family Behind The Magic

All ingredients and items sold at the kiosk are hauled up the same route the hikers take to reach beancurd heaven. Mr Hui Ngai-man and his 70-year-old deaf mother, man the dai pai dong during the weekend. While beancurd is relatively simple to make, the smooth taste is unforgettable. Mr Hui first soaks the beans in water for five to six hours and then employs the aid of a grinder bought from Kowloon City a lifetime ago. The mystical part: combining the mashed soybeans together with Shek Uk Shan stream water.

This concoction is poured into a pot which sits on top of a traditional village concrete stove to boil. Cornstarch is mixed in. Half an hour passes. Boom, the liquid is poured into another vessel containing gypsum powder solution and left to sit for 20 minutes.

Sweet steaming beancurd pudding is now ready and is served with a unique lemon-flavoured syrup.

On a hot sunny day, Mr Hui estimates that he makes 300 bowls of sweet beancurd. This is really the maximum number of bowls his two busy hands can make given the sparse resources at Hong Kong's own mountaintop plateau.

Hui Lam Store, Cheung Sheung, Tel: 2328 2456