Last month we looked at basic chicken stock which can be used to enhance many dishes. In this month's article I'll cover Asian master stock which has a more specific use. I'll also touch on fish and vegetable stock.

The Ultimate Stock

Whilst most stocks are made to add to a dish, master stock is used more specifically as a poaching liquid to cook and flavour pieces of meat. In turn the meat flavours the stock and you can use chicken, duck, pork, beef, or other poultry like pigeon or quail. 

The unique thing about master stock is you keep the liquid to re-use time and time again, so the flavour gets more intense over time. There are stories of hundred year old master stocks, although I've not had the pleasure of coming across one myself. If you are careful with your stock you can keep it for many months or even years.

There are many different versions of master stock, but key ingredients tend to stay the same: shaoxing rice wine, soy sauce, star anise, cinnamon, sugar, ginger and citrus peel. Many other ingredients are also common like: garlic, shallots, Szechuan pepper, cardamom pods, coriander seeds, chillies and lemongrass.

Most recipes call for yellow rock sugar, but this can be substituted for palm sugar or even dark brown sugar. These sugars bring a more rich earthy quality as opposed to the high end flavour of refined white sugar. 

As for the citrus peel you can choose your own preference or select what's in season. Orange, mandarin or tangerine all work well.

The following recipe is for a twice cooked pork belly which is rich and delicious. You can use this master stock recipe for any meat you choose to cook.

Recipe: Master Stock & Twice Cooked Pork Belly 

500g pork belly (serves 3-4)

Master Stock:

3.5ltr chicken stock or water

300ml shaoxing rice wine

250ml light soy

50ml dark soy

150g rock sugar

35-50g ginger 

4 cloves garlic 

4 whole shallots

4 star anise

2 cinnamon stick

4-5 pieces of citrus peel, dried or fresh (if fresh discard white pith)

1tsp coriander seeds

1tsp Szechuan peppercorns

1tsp cardamom pods

Add all ingredients, except pork belly, to a large pot and bring to the boil then reduce to a low simmer. Place pork belly skin side down into pot, cover with a plate or small pot to hold pork down under the surface. Cook on low for minimum of 3hrs. To check pork use the tip of the knife to test the tenderness, the knife should just slide in. Once the pork is ready, turn off and let sit for 30mins. Take out pork very gently and place skin side up on a baking tray. Gently slice the skin on both diagonals about 1cm apart to make a crisscross pattern. Place pork into a pre-heated 220 degree c oven for approximately 20 mins or until the skin is crisp. Serve with rice and steamed greens.

Let your master stock cool and place in fridge if you intend to use it in the next five days or so, or freezer to keep for later. 

When you go to use your stock again, in addition to adding which ever meat you are poaching, also freshen the stock with more citrus peel, ginger, shallots, or any of the spices you feel have died down. You can also add more chicken stock or water if the master stock has reduced too much over time.

Gone Fishing

From time to time recipes will call for fish stock which can have a beautiful delicate flavour. It is very similar to making chicken stock, except we cook it a little gentler. I can usually get fish heads and bones from my local fish shop, or if you are filleting a whole fish just keep the bones in a bag in the freezer until you want to make your stock. You can also keep prawn shells and heads and add them to the stock as well. You'll notice no carrots go into a fish stock as it's traditionally kept as a ‘white' stock.

3ltr water

2-3 large fish skeletons 

5 celery stalks

3 onions peeled and halved

1tsp whole peppercorns

2-3 bay leaves

Add all ingredients except fish to a large pot and bring to boil. Turn down to a very low simmer and add fish skeletons or any prawn shells. Simmer very gently for 30-45mins, skimming and discarding the scum. Very gently strain and store in the freezer.

Tip: If you are ever poaching fish, keep the liquid as a stock. Same goes for chicken.

For the Vegetarians

Many more people are turning to a vegetarian diet these days and they can still make a great stock very simply.

3ltr water

3 carrots halved

4-5 stalks celery

3 onions peeled and halved

1 tsp peppercorns

2 bay leaves

Optional extras for more flavour:

¼ pumpkin, seeds discarded

½ fennel bulb

2-3 parsnip, halved

½ celeriac

½ bunch parsley

Add all ingredients to a large pot and bring to boil. Turn down and simmer on low for 45-60 mins. Strain and discard vegetables. Store in fridge or freezer.

A Stock Convert

Making beautiful stock really is easy, and rewarding. I've really fallen in love with making and using it wherever I can. I hope you all become stock converts too.