HOME » Meet the Contributors » In the Kitchen » In the Kitchen: with Sze Fai
Can you blame your tools for a substandard result? I think that you can - to a certain degree. For example, the only thing that will happen with ease when trying to achieve a perfect brunoise with a flimsy, blunt knife will be cut fingers. I raise the question because I want to blame my tools, or at least partially, for the finished dish I created when In the Kitchen with Chef Sze Fai, of Loong Toh Yuen.
Dish: Fried Chicken with Black Truffle and Vegetables - 黑鳳朝陽

Impressive Skills
It was with lightening speed that Chef Sze took the chopper to the whole chicken, within minutes the bird had been filleted, deboned and chopped. I shouldn't have been surprised at the speed as Chef Sze has had over thirty years experience (including The Dynasty Club & China Club) to perfect his technique. Just when I thought, "Hang on, you are going too quick, I will never remember how to do this," I was told that the chef was demonstrating his knife skills.

In fact, one of the chef's team had prepared all the ingredients I would need (half chicken, asparagus, finely chopped black truffle in truffle oil, slivers of red pepper and spring onion and deep-fried carrot).

Not just a question of setting me an execution challenge only, I think the chef was a little worried that being untrained I would hurt myself. I think he worried a little too much, but this was his kitchen so I respectfully stayed silent. There was a clear sense of hierarchy and respect in this kitchen.

It took Chef Sze literally minutes to cook the dish. Beginning with coating the chicken in beaten egg and soy sauce and a good rubbing of corn flour and into the hot oil coated wok. To keep the chicken moving in the wok after the initial stir the chef picked it up by the small curved metal handle and seemingly with ease continually moved it in that tossing action that you see the pros use. Given the size and heaviness of the wok and the diminutive nature of Chef Sze (not to mention being on the phone, briefly, at the same time) this was impressive and it had me wondering if I had the skills.

The cooking action gave a nice caramelisation to the chicken and no piece was turned until all were done...more oil was added and the other side of the chicken cooked. Off with the heat to finish cooking and remove. Once the wok had been cleaned, water, salt and sugar was added and the asparagus given a quick simmer and removed. Next into the wok went a heaped teaspoon of the truffle mixture, back in with the chicken to coat. To plate arrange the asparagus down the sides of the plate, place the chicken in the centre and garnish with the red pepper, spring onion and carrot.





Still Finding My Groove
I was feeling quietly confident, the dish seemed quite straightforward. And then I was told that I would not be using the wok to cook my chicken as it was too dangerous because I would not be strong enough to repeat the chef's one-hand tossing technique. I felt disappointed, partly because it would have been good to have tried but mostly because I knew that my dish was not going to taste like Chef Sze's.

I gave it my best shot but the chicken took longer to cook in the shallow frypan than the wok and the pieces were not evenly cut, not a problem in the wok, but it meant an inconsistent result - some dry, some only just done, and some perfect. I should have been more in charge at my frypan but I am still learning to feel as comfortable and confident in a professional kitchen as my own.

I was allowed to do the rest of the dish in the wok.

After plating the dish with only a pair of chopsticks under the watchful gaze of five people it was time for the taste test. I had already tried Chef Sze's with the rich chicken combining with the freshness of the asparagus deliciously. In comparison mine was tasty - once you got the right bit of chicken - but it tasted home made, it didn't have the taste of an accomplished restaurant dish and certainly had no wok hei. On a positive note it is a dish that doesn't require specialist equipment or professional fire intensity to reproduce at home.


I would like to think that if I had cooked the entire dish with the correct tools it would have tasted better...but maybe not. I do know that I will be spending my spare time practicing my one-arm wok technique in preparation.
Chef Sze Fai's Review

Considering this was the first time she made the dish, she did very good. It was good that she remembered all the steps and the recipe.
The thinner pieces of the chicken were a little over-cooked, but the thicker pieces had no problem. This problem could be rectified by being more careful about this factor next time.
The chicken was already prepped and de-boned for her this time, so maybe she can try to prepare the chicken and take out the bones herself next time to get higher marks.
Overall, I had a great time and really enjoyed the opportunity to be In the Kitchen with Vicki.
Score: 8/10
WOM guide