We like to eat. We also like to ride mini-buses, unhurried ferries and traditional sampans to eat fresh, homey and novel New Territories cuisine. A few Saturdays ago, we invited a large group of friends on a culinary journey back in time.

Nestled off the coast of Tolo Harbour is historic Grass Island, also known as, Tap Mun Island. This magical Hakka and Tanka enclave is a short ferry ride from Tai Po's Ma Liu Shui pier, or Sai Kung's Wong Shek Pier and offers some of Hong Kong's best waterfront seafood at Loi & Pekky Lam's restaurant, New Hon Kee Seafood Restaurant.

More than just the food, the leisurely ride on the ferry through the rolling waves and lush green hills is part of the New Territories experience. The island boasts hang-ten waves for surfers, camp grounds for the adventurous and a magnificent Tin Hau (goddess of the sea) Temple, which was refurbished to its former glory just last year. It is best to head out to Tap Mun on a Saturday morning to avoid the Sunday afternoon crowds so check the schedule at www.traway.com.hk/routes.html to suss out the crossing times. 

When you land, visitors stroll along the promenade only to be met by old Hakka grannies (with their traditional farmer straw hats) hawking their sun-dried wares - the waft of dried shrimp, scallops, fish, egg yolks is hard to miss. Stop by, have a chat and may be try your own hand at recreating traditional dishes.

Don't dawdle too long - your stomach is growling! 

Fresh Favourites

Greet Pekky at the door and she will guide you to the prime spot at the end of the restaurant - a circular table overlooking the South China Sea. During our last visit, we first cracked open a bottle of wine we brought, lashed down some Tsing Tao and got to business with the ordering the main event: food! No menus needed - Pekky was ready with fresh recommendations and tried and tested favourites. 

Our first dish was the always popular succulent calamari - deep fried to perfection with red and green chillies. This magnificent dish is served with both a light sweet sour sauce and our favourite, soy sauce garnished with fresh chillies. 

Next, the table welcomed plump boiled shrimp. Hands, chopsticks and forks reached in simultaneous anticipation as teeth gashed through the skin to rip into the juicy flesh at record speed. Dip these sea treasures into the soy sauce fresh chilli concoction and enjoy! It is safe to say all were satisfied with the recommendation. 

Vegetables soon make their way onto the table. Baby bak choy with fresh mushrooms and dau miu (pea leaf) stir fried in a wok with garlic. 

Chicken rice noodles with black bean sauce waltzed onto the table; this unusual combination was an inspiration of a friend who had a hankering for black bean but had an aversion to beef, the typical accompaniment with this dish. Not bad at all!

More Seafood 

Crabs, crab claws and the ubiquitous crab shell make their presence known, one plate stir fried with ginger and garlic, the other with cream sauce and yellow noodles. Lips and teeth work in tandem to suck the rich sauces and delicate meat from the obliging crabs. Yummy! 

What seafood meal is complete without the omnipresent steamed fish? A snapper was fished from the very water outside of the restaurant, freshness guaranteed. The delicate meat was stripped from the bones as white rice plopped onto the table. Ah, we both agree that Cantonese chefs achieve nirvana through their steamed fish. Succulent pieces of fish, luscious juices topped over white rice, perfection. 

Each time we make our pilgrimage to Tap Mun, we make sure to pay homage to Chef Alan (and his biceps) for the feast! He is a one-man band in the kitchen and after each meal, we toast him to say our thanks and share a glass of red wine. 

A Complete Experience

More than just the first-rate food, the ambiance of the restaurant invites friends to chat, drink tea (or bottles of wine in our case) and spend yet another Saturday afternoon exploring what Hong Kong has to offer. 

Shafts of sun rays siphon through the window illuminating the banquet of seafood. Some power through their full stomachs to find their second wind. Others wander away to sun bathe on the nearby rocks. A party heads out towards the newly renovated Tin Hau Temple and view-point, a 15-minute wander through the village. 

With each visitors' internal cadence beating their own march, Tap Mun Island entrances all to touch base and celebrate Hong Kong's love of natural landscape, historic villages and traditional cuisine. 

Price: $100-$200 per person.

Verdict: A historic culinary journey of traditional Cantonese seafood, far-flung island wonders and colourful traditional village-life.