As the third largest island in Hong Kong, Lamma Island, is a popular weekend getaway for locals and visitors given its dedication to seafood, rich history, as well as cultural and leisure resources. While Yung Shue Wan is typically known as the busiest section, So Kwu Wan down south is a relatively small hamlet with only a few hundred villagers. 

A couple weeks back, a friend organised a corporate seafood dinner at Tai Yuen Seafood Restaurant, So Kwu Wan, an annual tradition for years. We all assembled at Pier 9, Central Pier on a Friday night and set off on a charter Chinese junk. In 40 minutes, we berthed at So Kwu Wan. Wow, the chartered boat was the way forward! The private boat offered more privacy and comfort to guests, especially when ferries are scheduled less frequently. A round-trip by Chinese junk only costs from $1,800.   

A Family Affair

Tai Yuen Seafood has been a family run restaurant since 1972. The Yuen family are not indigenous villagers but used to operate a retail seafood stall in Aberdeen. The owner's daughter Joyce recalls, "It was happenstance and a matter of timing when we started. My mum's friend asked if we interested to open a seafood restaurant on Lamma. We thought it was a good idea and logical seeing that we could secure fresh and quality supplies. Since then, the outlet has been up and running - not to mention successful." 

The second generation are now in charge, with Joyce and her sister, Karen, at the helm of the 10-staff waterfront eatery. Unlike the gigantic Rainbow Restaurant which has taken over the first section of So Kwu Wan First Street adjacent to the government public pier, Tai Yuen is nestled amongst other small operators. 

Unique Features

Compared to Yung Shue Wan, So Kwu Wan boasts the highest number of seafood outlets with about five to six operations. This explains why prices are more competitive and choices are wider. 

Tai Yuen sets itself apart by reasonable price and fresh supplies. Joyce says, "Average price per person is about $100-300. Service is priority as well and so repeated clientele is 89 per cent. We don't charge corkage fee. Moreover, a healthy diet is stressed as most dishes are cooked with vegetable oil and we stick to the regime of less salt and oil which results in a light taste. For those who can't take seafood, we also have on offer a vegetarian menu."

Our Seafood Feast

We numbered fifteen hungry people that day and took over the biggest table. Attentive staff which included both Karen and Joyce took our drink orders and soon, signature dishes flew in one by one - the theme being laid back seaside fare.

The lineup was impressive: deep-fried calamari, steamed fresh abalone with scallion and ginger, steamed scallop, bamboo clams and garoupa two ways: stir-fried garoupa with seasonal vegetables and steam chopped garoupa with ginger. 

A quick glimpse from the fish tank showed that most of the seafood came from overseas, such as gigantic mantis prawns flown from Thailand, each weighed about eight to 10 tael, and lobsters originating from South Africa. Of course, local specialities like blue crabs were also on offer. We found that the menu was full of choice from seafood to, pork, rice and noodle, soup and chowder, beancurd, beef, chicken, special vegetarian dishes. 

A big tip: pre ordering is required for lobster sashimi, which is popular with Korean and Japanese guests.

By the time we enjoyed the dessert, it was almost 11pm! Looking around, we realised that all clients had packed up and left except for us chatterers! 

For day trippers, it is advised to explore the area before or after the meal. Iconic features like the Tin Hau Temple and Lo So Shing Beach are nearby. Apart from Central, So Kwu Wan is also linked to Aberdeen by boat. The government has put up a lot of signs and maps to give directions, which is a great touch.