Tucked away on the South western tip of India is the Malabar Coast and India's land of spice - Kerala.  A popular destination with both local and foreign tourists, Kerala is famous for her captivating backwaters, sunny beaches, scenic hill stations, world famous spa's and most of all her sublime cuisine.

In 1999, my husband and I spent a fabulous week in Kerala. That my husband's uncle was the Governor of the State only made the visit more luxurious. I can still remember the rich luscious colonial style tea gardens and house compounds full of coconut palms, cashew nut and banana trees living harmoniously with beautiful hibiscus and bougainvillaea flowers all touched by the fresh sea breeze.

Besides the very warm temperatures, Kerala is one of the most beautiful places I have ever traveled to with a cuisine that is sure to tease your taste buds.

Rich Bounty

The ancestry of this rich land of spices can be traced back more than 2,000 years with many world wanderers coming to trade from places far and wide - Arabia, Europe, and the Mediterranean. Keralan cuisine is thus a reflection of a harmonious melting pot of the various cultures that visited and stayed on in the place. Most Keralans are Hindus who are by and large vegetarian in nature. Then there are the sizeable Muslims and Christians minorities who are predominantly carnivores.

Located on the coast, Kerala is a natural seafood heaven so the Keralan table is an affluent ocean of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian delights. I still remember the sweet "fruits de mer"- great grand daddy sized lobsters, crabs and tiger shrimp all coupled up with the gorgeous dhals (tempered lentil soups), stir fried vegetables and the one pot Mopla biriyani dishes of the Muslims and those lovely stews and bakes from the Keralan Christians.

An  absolutely scrumptious spread full of texture, colour and flavour.  Always  made with love using the freshest ingredients, the Keralans take great pride in their cuisine and their food is  generally tangy, hot, sweet and spicy. 

A traditional Keralan curry is nothing like a North Indian curry - instead of an enriching ghee and cream filled curry a Keralan curry's flavour is enhanced with aromatic freshly ground spices like cardamoms, cinnamon, black peppercorns, curry leaves and chilies. Coconuts are found in abundance so naturally coconut and coconut milk, plus green chillies are the backbone of the cuisine.

God's Own Country

Often referred to as "Gods Own Country," the name Kerala has its origins in the word Kera which means the land of coconut. The most intriguing feature for me on my visit was the harvest festival of Onam (to celebrate Kerala's legendary King Mahbali) which falls in September. Our morning breakfast was served on a banana leaf, eaten with the right hand and the green chilli could be found in practically every dish. Its heat followed me everywhere. Totally intoxicated by the spices along with the freshness and the aromas of the cuisine, I forgot about my expanding waistline and was hooked on the heat.  A sudden transformation had taken place -  my desire for the usual "healthy" fruit bowls and morning cereal with milk and lunchtime whole wheat sandwiches and salads was replaced with the mouthwatering coconut and rice flour appams (light pancakes ), tangy lemon rice and the hot coconut laced prawn curry.

Fresh and fragrant and hot with chilies and spice, balanced off with the creamy and soft coconut and coconut milk Keralan cuisine is an epitome of flavour. You can call it a delicious treasure and pleasure, and eating a traditional Keralan dish like that below is a good way to transport yourself to that magical land of flavour and spice.

Recipe

Keralan Prawn Curry (serves 3-4)

500 grams tiger prawns shells off and de-veined

1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

4 tbsp oil (sunflower or canola)

1 tsp nigella seeds (We call this Kalonji in India)

5 curry leaves

1 onion finely chopped

½ teaspoon turmeric powder

4 whole green cardamom pods split open

1.5 tsp red chilli powder

1 inch stick cinnamon

4 cloves garlic finely chopped

A good bunch of fresh coriander leaves

4-5 mint leaves

175 ml coconut milk

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

Method: Toss the prawns with the lemon juice in a plastic bowl and leave this to marinate while you make the curry sauce.

Heat a heavy bottomed pan (on a medium flame) with the oil and add the nigella seeds let them sizzle just a wee bit (2 minutes) and quickly toss in the curry leaves.

Add the chopped onion and cook for 3-4 minutes till translucent but not coloured.

Toss in the cinnamon, garlic and ginger. Cook for another 1-2 minutes until the garlic and ginger have softened and are cooked through (the cinnamon barks membranes will release essential oils and you should get a mild fragrance at this stage).

Add the turmeric, cardamom pods and chilli powder. Cook for 1-2 minutes until fragrant, stirring constantly.

Reserve a few coriander sprigs and leaves for garnish and blend coriander leaves and mint with the coconut cream in a mini food processor.

Stir into the pan with the onion and spice mixture until well combined, then bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 1-2 minutes.

Stir in the marinated prawns and season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.

Continue to simmer for 2-3 minutes until the prawns are pink just cooked through and tender, stirring constantly.

Garnish the curry with the reserved coriander sprigs and serve with boiled rice.