Simple and delicious, the cuisine from the South East Indian state of Orissa challenges the belief that all Indian cuisine begins with and ends with a curry.

Famed as the birth place of India’s popular classical dance the “Odissi”, Orissa is also known for its wildlife, ancient temples, rivers and the world’s longest dam, the Hirkud. Located on the Bay of Bengal, the cuisine of this affluent state is fresh, aromatic, balanced and is beginning to gain recognition all over India. Unlike  the hot and spicy  curries that are affiliated with Indian cuisine, the Oriyan kitchen employs  subtle and delicate spices such as the  ‘Panch phoran’  spice mix which is a combination  of five spices: Cumin, Mustard, Fennel, Fenugreek and Nigella (Kalonji) seeds.

Organic in nature, great pride is taken in the mouthwatering fare of fresh vegetables, seafood and fresh water delicacies from the many rivers that flow through the state.

Cuisine Characteristics

Even though food preparations in the state are almost the same as that of its neighbouring states, Bihar and West Bengal due to the similar geographical conditions one may ask, what is it that makes the food of Orissa different to the other regional cuisines of India? Some key differences include: dishes are generally steamed or boiled and they use their spices in a unique way. Spices such as the Panch phoran are often added to a dish "raw" (as opposed to panfrying to release the oils) and it is this method of cooking that that imparts a unique and intoxicating mix of aromas. Fresh yoghurt and coconut milk are also used extensively. Rice is a staple and is used in a variety of dishes.

Delicious vegetarian dishes that I have tried are “Daalama”, a lentil based dish, the unique and delicious mustard fish, and a melt in your mouth mutton curry. A typical meal is a feast for the eyes and will contain a red or yellow lentil, a meat dish and a stir fried or steamed vegetable, yogurt and a desert. The main course itself is sure to fill you well, make sure you keep some room for a desert that will delight you. 

The people of Orissa are known for experimenting with their food. As mentioned earlier vegetarian and non vegetarian dishes exist side by side in perfect balance and harmony and one can have the taste of both in one meal. Home to many of India’s famous temples, including the famous Sun temple at Puri, it is no wonder that the local "tables" transform into a food lover’s nirvana during the festival seasons and the fresh flavours that you will taste here will be something that you will remember forever.

A visit to Orissa is long overdue, but at the Kenyan home of family friends we often enjoyed many a memorable traditional lunch or dinner. 

Sweet dishes form an indispensable part of the cuisine and no meal is thought of as complete without something sweet. One of the most popular desserts are those made from milk “chenna,” (sweetened cottage cheese) and sweetened nariyal chawal (coconut rice).

My favourite is my Auntie Molly's “Paneer kheer” (Indian cheese and milk pudding) whose recipe is listed below, and the spongy Rosogollas. She recently shared with me (when I called her up for the kheer recipe that is!) that the birth place of the very famous “Rosogolla” (soft and spongy cheese balls made in a cardamom sugar syrup) is not Bengal but Orissa and in fact the state is considered to be the “expert” at sweets as they are made in huge quantities for all the religious festivals that are associated with the many temples of Orissa.

Recipes

The two recipes below are a good introduction to a firsthand experience to what may turn out to be a lifelong love affair. Be it vegetarian, non vegetarian or a sweet dish, the cuisine offers so very many irresistible dishes, each a class apart from the rest. As they say in Orissa ‘Majha ayesh’ - enjoy!

Auntie Molly's Paneer Kheer

3 cups milk
1 cup condensed milk (more or less depending on how sweet you like your dessert)
1.5 tbsp corn flour
1.25 cup grated paneer (instructions below)  
½ teaspoon cardamom powder  
3 tblsp chopped pistachios or almonds, or both   
Garnish: 4 tbsp Sweetened Condensed milk, Silver paper if available, Slivered almonds

Combine milk and condensed in a broad non-stick pan. Simmer on a medium flame, stirring continuously until heated through. Add the corn flour and stir continuously till the mixture thickens. Add the paneer, pistachios, almonds and cardamom powder and mix well. Refrigerate for at least two hours. Serve chilled with an extra spoon of condensed milk on top and decorate with roasted and chopped nuts.

Paneer

3 litres milk
2-5 tablespoons white vinegar
A clean cheese cloth or tee shirt

Gently warm the milk and bring it to a just about boiling.
Add the vinegar. Not too much, all you want is for the milk to curdle.
Gently mix with a wooden spatula and add more vinegar (if required) until the milk has split into a transparent liquid and little lumps of soft white cheese. Get a clean towel ready and wash it under fresh water. Wrap it into a bowl or strainer, put everything in the sink and pour in the split milk. Let the milk water drain. Only the white cheese should remain in your towel.
Fold this up and rinse out the vinegar. Roll it up and let it sit with a weight on it for about an hour. Paneer will keep in the refrigerator for 2 days.