Once upon a time there was a restaurant in a hotel in Causeway Bay. The gastronomic equivalent of a dead rockstar - a legend, a fairy story, every aspect of it ideal.

The food was a wonderfully innovative blend of east and west, modern food at its adventurous best and still grounded. Simple and Complex. There was a feeling that some dishes had evolved over years of trials and modifications. Prized recipes that had been perfected. 

One dish that stood out further was the Dungeness Crab Tortellini with Spiced Butterscotch Sauce, Crab Claw, topped with Caviar and White Radish Salad. Its appearance was dramatic and the taste sublime, a couple of mouthfuls of pure bliss. For me this dish was all about the flavour dynamics - the start was sweet, sweet crab, the sauce adding complexity that changed and increased as each ingredient had its moment. Food has never been the same.

Complementing the food deliciously were the warm lights and candles, big comfy chairs, masterful wine pairings, and perfect mix of eating music. The tables were spaced so that you could have plotted a murder without the whole place being in on it. The staff were friendly and knowledgeable, attentive without being intrusive.

All the ingredients to a great dining experience this place had in bushels. The ideal setting for great food, food that made you stop and think. Drink a toast to the dearly departed.

My Main Affair

I have a thing for small restaurants, the sort of place that's tucked away. The sort of place you could drift into as a party of one and feel welcome.

There's a little gem of a place on Taipa (Macau). I stumbled across it when I was living in the area, a small restaurant serving French food at what appeared to be quite affordable prices, so when a friend came for a visit we tried it. As we walked in the first thing we noticed was that all the clientele were speaking French, we took this as a good sign and we were not disappointed. 

The menu is divided between water and land, and changes regularly. On my last visit I had a starter of Guinea Fowl and Duck Foie Gras Pastry with Wild Mushrooms and Perigueux Sauce. The pastry was an intriguingly complex dish, rich and tasty, with the mushrooms and sauce adding a degree of depth to the flavours. I liked it so much I almost ordered another.

For my main I went aquatic Le Demi Homard en Cocotte, Pommes de Terre Nouvelle au Thymet Tranche de Lard Farmier, Flambe au Cognac. As stated it comes flambeed tableside so you can watch as the sprig of thyme gets reduced to ash, which does add a smoky decadence to the dish.

The lobster was perfectly cooked, its flavours beautifully enhanced by the cognac and herbs, the slab of farmers bacon added a nice rustic touch to both the look and taste of the dish; a counterpoint to the crustacean. I love this dish. So much that I have never ordered another main, I promise next time I'll try something different.

Back to Basics

There is something strange that happens when you eat with your hands. Parts of the brain that are not used to working together must. One less degree of separation, the breaking of long established taboos, undoing years of parental indoctrination and the plain fear of digital incompetence.

Many of the dishes served at such gatherings are designed to be eaten easily with the hands, but rice and curry requires a knack. Initially self conscious I watched what everyone else did and did the same. Thankfully I am a fast learner when it comes to food.

My most recent back-to-basics meal was with my friends S and A, and A's coven of culinary cohorts. It was amazing to see such a variety and volume coming out of a "tong lau" kitchen. Tempeh, corn fritters, frog "chicken", sambals (always a homemade one), Sayur Lodeh - vegetable stew in coconut milk, Beef Rendang, pandanus wrapped proteins, salads, rice, crackers...a simple feast. 

The day was defined by distinct and robust food. Food that was designed to be shared, to be lingered over for several hours, and enjoyed together.

 Live to eat.