HOME » Hot Features » Fine Dining Feature » A Tale of Two Fine-Dining Restaurants
When it comes to fine-dining establishments, we think mostly of hotel dining restaurants, especially those that serve Western cuisines. After all, the majority of these restaurants keep a high standard on their food quality. It is also true that to qualify as fine-dining, the definition surpasses quality of the food, but also takes into account the whole dining experience; ambiance and service are often accounted for as the whole package. Here we take a look at two reputable French dining establishments here in Hong Kong.
Restaurant Petrus, located on the 56th floor of the Island Shangri-la Hotel in Admiralty, is the sheer representation of luxury. The décor, the paintings on the wall and the golden ornaments that embellish the open dining room accentuate the concept of fine dining before diners are seated. With passion to his native French cuisine, Petrus' executive chef Frederic Chabbert takes on an exploratory journey of his creations at Petrus, adopting different textures and ingredients based on traditional French techniques. Like many restaurants of its kind, the menu changes by the season, with a few diners' favorites that stay on throughout the year.
Among many popular items is Petrus' appetizer "Warm Red Spanish Carabinieros Prawns, Thin duck Liver, Caviar and Green Apple". This appetizer has been a resident Petrus favorite and has never left the a la carte menu ever since its launch 2 years ago. The patch of red colour along the spine of the shelled prawn is this Spanish import's signature. The prawn is first marinated with olive oil, then warmed up slightly until the meat firms up just enough without taking on an opaque colour of cooked flesh. The prawn is accompanied by a thin slice of duck liver, caviar and small discs of green apple. The briny freshness of the prawn is further enhanced by the richness from the duck liver, while the tart green apple helps cleanse the palate for the next bite to come.
"Seared Diver Scallops and Seaweed, Kalik Bleak caviar in creamy sauce with Seashore herbs" is a unique main course at Petrus. Diver scallops, as the name suggests, are harvested one by one by divers. They are generally bigger in size and weigh about 80 grams apiece. Featuring them in this dish, Chef Chabbert sears the scallops in a hot pan with butter. They are served loosely wrapped in a sheet of fresh seaweed and garnished with prized Kalik Bleak Caviar, known for its limited production. The seaweed and caviar enhance the oceany sweetness from the scallops, which are succulent with a crusty exterior. One should not overlook the garnish of ‘seashore herbs', as they are herbs sourced along the coast of France and bear a slightly crunchy texture.
Vegetables can play an equally significant role in a main course. Such is the case of "Annie Bertin's Organic Vegetables and Wild Herbs. Wild Mushrroms, Pork Jus and Grattons". Originally designed as a dish for vegetarians, Chef Chabbert and his kitchen team saw the possibilities of this dish making into the a la carte menu, hence creating a chorizo jus that has just the savoury meaty element of that blends into the crisp sweetness of the seasonal mushrooms as well as rare vegetables like the garden cress and Mourrons des Oiseaux. The vegetables are fresh and sweet all on their own, yet when combined together brings a harmonious balance within it all.
French cuisine puts emphasis on smart usage of ingredients as much as adopting the right techniques to use them, with creativity bringing out an element of surprise through each dish. At Caprice of the Four Seasons Hong Kong, modern elements are added into creations with traditional methods, notable examples are dishes that blends Thai black tea into a sauce for lobster, as well as the addition of Yuzu marmalade and herbs in a langoustine Carpaccio.
Famous for sophisticated presentation, Caprice's long-standing favorite appetizer includes "Tourteau Crab Tiramisu, Fruity Marinade and Tandoori Spices", a beautiful layered concoction resembling the Italian dessert. This appetizer is the prime example of putting together ingredients from the four corners of the world all on one plate. Meat from Brittany crabs are tossed with olive oil, shallots and a little bit of lime juice before lining the base, followed by a sweet puree of mango and papaya and a dusting of sweet pimento for a bittersweet edge. To mirror the original Tiramisu, the crab concoction is topped with a helping of Mascarpone mousse. The overall texture is soft and creamy, with fruity notes contributed from the tropical fruits.
The "Racan Pigeon Feuillete, Foie Gras and Lemon Seaweed, Trompette Mushrooms in Warm Vinaigrette" is a beautifully presented main course. The key to this dish is creating various textures using only one pigeon. Aside from a crispy leg of pigeon, the notable element is the pigeon breast enrobed within a sesame butter pastry. There are two parts of the filling to the pastry: one being the pigeon breast, smothered with lemon marmalade and wrapped with seaweed, the other the foie gras. Vincent Thierry, executive chef of Caprice, calls this "a combination of land and sea". The pigeon, accompanied by a sweet potato puree and vinaigrette made with reduced pigeon jus and balsamic vinegar is tender and meaty at the same time, while the tangy vinaigrette offsets the richness of the goose liver.
Equally tempting are the dessert selections at Caprice. The composed desserts aim to bring together different elements and ingredients with a stunning presentation to impress. A notable chocolate dessert is the "Ginger Nyangbo Chocolate, Shiso and Apple Foam, Drunken Frozen Chocolate, Cress, Sake, and Cocoa Sorbet". The architecturally-sound tower of chocolate textures bring together a rich brownie with confit ginger marmalade, ginger chocolate cream with marinated apples and ginger and is topped with a chocolate tuile. The dessert adopts the Nyangbo Chocolate, famous for its rustic flavor profile and intensity in cocoa flavor. The grassy shiso and sharp ginger are harmonized by the fruitiness in the apple. Even though there are different textures within one dessert, they all lend a supporting role to accentuate the flavor of chocolate itself.
Aside from desserts, one also has the alternative option to savour the rich varieties of cheeses at Caprice. Being an integral part of the French culinary culture, Caprice gathers a selection of Artisanal unpasteurized cheese mostly from France, as Jeremy Evrard, manager and resident cheese-expert of Caprice will tell you, "There's always room for cheese".
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