The chef's table is located inside the kitchen, away from the main dining area and originally by invitation (of the chef) only. It is not entirely sure when the concept of chef's table started but it is the ultimate in dining. There is a saying in Chinese that can be loosely translated as "when one is near the kitchen, there is (good) food". What about when one is inside the kitchen of a top hotel?

Gaddi's

This French institution in the Peninsula Hotel epitomises fine-dining. The classy dining room sets the stage for an exquisite meal, and the impeccable service is world-renowned. The chef's table is located in an alcove by the hot section of the kitchen and can seat a maximum of 4 guests. The menu is decided by the chef, who picks the freshest ingredients available to give diners a one-of-a-kind experience.

Chef David Goodridge has been leading the Gaddi's team for 7 years. He tells WOM the chef's table provides a platform for diners and chefs to interact. The experience goes beyond a fine-dining meal and gives diners a thorough understanding of what goes on behind the scene. Needless to say, in the absence of plush carpet and elegant chandelier, the service remains world-class.

When creating a new dish, Chef David takes into account the flavour of the individual ingredients, how they juxtapose or match with one another through different ways of cooking and textures. Everything on the plate has its purpose. Here are a few dishes that reflect the team's creativity.

After devouring the mouthwatering bread basket, we dived into the appetiser. For the Salade de Crabe enveloppé dans sa gelée, caviar Osciètre et Avocat (Crab meat salad rolled in its own gelée, Oscietra caviar and avocado) Chef David uses Canadian Dungeness crab because of the firm and long strands of meat. The cooked crab meat is mixed with creme fraiche and chives, before being enveloped in a transparent gelatin tube made with crab consommé. The ends of the tube are "sealed" by Oscietra caviar. Served with an avocado purée and a savoury lemon curd, the sweetness of the crab meat is allowed to stand out.

The main course is Filet de Bœuf Américain Prime grillé en croûte de sel et herbes (Grilled American Prime beef fillet baked in an herbed salted pastry) this is a rather complicated dish. Chef David first constructs the pastry case with flour, egg-white, salt, horseradish and herbs such as rosemary and thymes. The beef fillet is then seared on a hot pan to lock in the juice. It is then sealed inside the pastry case and placed inside a 260 degree oven for a mere 8 minutes. Afterwards, the whole dish is left on the counter for another 35-40 minutes and the heat trapped in the pastry case will "cook" the beef.

It is quite a scene when the dish is presented; the pastry case gets lifted and the beef is sliced up thickly. The meat absorbs the flavourings from the pastry case and the "slow" cooking makes it tender and juicy; the knife glides through effortlessly with just a bit of pressure. The profiteroles-look-alike on the side are in fact deep-fried blue cheese puffs that are light and heavenly. Served with a reduction of red wine sauce infused with braised oxtail jus to add depth, the natural flavour of the beef - rich and meaty - shines through

A satisfying dining experience is not complete without dessert. For the Mousse légère au mascarpone et au café, glade au caramel amber (Lightly whipped mascarpone mousse with coffee, bitter caramel ice cream). Chef David uses Valrhona chocolate and coffee-infused cream to whip up a luscious chocolate ganache, topped with salted caramel as the base of the dish. Inside the chocolate cylinder, the Mascarpone mousse is infused with espresso to take the edge off the sweetness of caramel. The bitter caramel ice-cream on top finishes off the dish by bringing the bitterness, sweetness and saltiness of all ingredients together. A classic dessert with a new twist.

To finish the meal, a delicious assortment of petit fours is presented. The Passion fruit almond tartlet and the Rose Macaron are particularly excellent.

One Harbour Road

Although chef's table is a western concept, it can also be applied to Chinese cuisine. One Harbour Road is located within Grand Hyatt Hotel. Inside the kitchen is a private dining room that is tastefully decorated. This is Head Chef Tim's "office", as well as where the chef's table is. Chef Tim tells WOM the reason for setting up the chef's table is to go beyond the boundaries of traditional Chinese cooking; it allows diners and chef to communicate directly and explore together. When asked to design a menu, Chef Tim shows off his creativity by incorporating different ingredients and cooking methods. Some of the dishes that he has created for the chef's table have even gained their permanent spots on the regular menu.

The Deep-fried Chicken filled with Shrimp Mousse and Water Chestnut is a classic dish. Using Longjiang chicken for its flavour and texture, the bird is first de-boned before getting stuffed with a fluffy shrimp mousse. It is then deep-fried until crispy and placed on a nest made with deep-fried Japanese udon noodles. The combination of crispy chicken and firm and bouncy shrimp mousse is even better when dipped into a simple sauce, flavoured with lemon and five-spice powder - a tantalising chicken dish.

For crab lovers, the Wok-fried Crab Claw with White Turnip Dumpling in Black Pepper Sauce is not to be missed. Borrowing the idea from the classic Singaporean dish, this is a lady-like way of enjoying crabs. Big fat claws of Australian crabs are quickly stir-fried in a black pepper sauce. House-made white turnip dumplings conveniently soak up the excess sauce. The advantage of using white turnip dumplings instead of the more commonly-used rice cakes is that the chef can have control over the seasoning of the dumplings and very often patrons ask for extra order!

A well thought-out menu should include both richer dishes and lighter fare. The Stir-fried Fresh Milk with Sea Urchin and Crab Coral is a delicate dish that shows off the chef's skills and experience. Stir-fried milk done well takes skills; if the heat is too high, the milk becomes overcooked very quickly and starts to sweat. The final product should be velvety but firm, similar to the texture of sea urchin. Chinese vinegar brings out the sweetness of the sea urchin and cuts the creaminess of the milk.

As with all chef's tables, making reservations well in advance is necessary for several reasons: there is only one chef's table and is popular for special occasions. Also the chef needs to make sure his or her schedule is organised so that he or she has time to talk with the dinner party. Last but not least, the chef needs time to design and create a special menu for diners who reserve the chef's table.

Eating inside the kitchen gives diners a very different viewpoint that can be fascinating, from the moment the food gets prepared. It is more delicious when the creator is there to explain and walk you through his thought process. This is when eating becomes an art.