Two days after I first arrived in Hong Kong many years ago I had a memorable birthday dinner at Va Bene, enjoying both the food and the ambience. The restaurant has been popular since it first opened, and moved to larger premises a few years ago. I had not eaten there since the move and was therefore looking forward to my return visit to see if the food was as good as I remembered. 

Unexpected Beginning

We began the dinner with the recommended Capesante Dorate in Padella con Amatriciana di Cipolle Rosse e Patate Croccanti - sautéed scallops with red onions, bacon and fresh tomato sauce served with crispy potatoes; and Sfogliatina di Zucchine alla Parmigiana con Acqua di Pomodoro alla Menta - warm layers of zucchini “parmigiana style” served with mint flavoured light tomato juice. We found the scallop dish to be so so, not offensive, but not great. The scallops were slightly overcooked and disappeared in the onion and tomato that it came with, which itself was lovely and sweet. The crispy potato turned out to be potato crisps, which while adding textural contrast did not really work for me.  

The mille-fueille style zucchini dish was lovely to look at with its layers of colour. My dining companion though that it was an interesting dish and we both appreciated the effort that had gone into making the dish, and its textural depth. It was nice, but it could have been great. It was let down by the tomatoes, which were rather bland and did not have the flavour that I associate with Italian tomatoes. If they were Italian they need a new supplier and if they weren't, why not? After all, tomatoes are a cornerstone of the cuisine and Italy grows some of the best in the world, if not the best in terms of flavour.

A recent introduction to the menu is a small selection of pizzas, which looked great but we decided to share a portion of  Pappardelle al Sugo D’agnello con Pecorino e Foglie di Menta - Homemade pappardelle with lamb ragout, pecorino cheese and fresh mint. This dish was also a little disappointing, the sauce was nice at first, but it did not have the flavour intensity I expected and we found it to have a salty aftertaste.

Missing the Mark

For mains we choose the chef's recommendation of Filetto di Branzino con Salsa di Acciughe e Limone servito con Asparagi Verdi Saltati - Pan fried sea bass with anchovies and lemon sauce served with sautéed green asparagus; and  Carre D’agnello alle Erbe Miste con Purea di Cavolfiore e Castagne - roasted rack of lamb with mixed herbs served with cauliflowers and chestnuts.

The fish itself was cooked perfectly, with crispy skin and had a lovely flavour, but there was almost no discernible taste of anchovy. This was a let down because we had chosen it because of the sauce, which had an almost cornstarch consistency when it cooled. It was served with broccoli and asparagus.

The lamb was tasty and had a good flavour, which developed when it cooled, and the puree was a good counter to the meat. Unfortunately, some of the lamb was cooked more than the medium rare that we had requested.

We also ordered the Insalata di Rucola con Formaggio Caprino. The rocket had a fantastic flavour, the hints of beetroot adding colour and flavour contrast and the goat's cheese was heavenly and creamy. It ticked all the boxes of colour, texture and flavour, but for me again the seasoning was not quite there, in the case of the salad I found it to be too salty. My dining partner found the seasoning acceptable but not necessary.

Dessert Shines 

Sgroppino al Limone con Prosecco - blended lemon sorbet with prosecco, and Gonfiotto Caldo al Cioccolato e Salsa Vaniglia - chocolate flan with vanilla sauce were our choices for dessert. The lemon dessert was served in a champagne glass with a straw and was refreshing, but tasted a little like it had been made from powder. The made-to-order flan looked beautiful and tasted great. It was deliciously chocolate-y and was served with assorted red fruits - strawberry, raspberries and red currants, all of which were bursting with taste, and a scattering of mint.

Dinner was not the wow dinner I had hoped it would be. The dishes all looked good and were well thought out re the texture and flavour elements and combinations, but for me they just missed out on being great or impressive largely because the seasoning was not in harmony with the food. That being said, the restaurant was busy midweek and so the food is hitting the mark with many Hong Kong diners.

Ambience, Service, Price

The restaurant has a warm ambience and is tastefully decorated, with different themes in different parts of the restaurant. I liked that they had retained some of the decorative features, such as ragged walls, that were in the original location, as well as the overall feel. Simply touches, such as tea-light candles inside refracted glass that made starburst patterns on the table added to the relaxing environment.

Our waiter Chris was excellent and very thoughtful. For example, he asked me if the temperature was OK and when I mentioned that I was a little cold, not only did he adjust the temperature but he also brought me a shawl, which he specifically chose because it matched what I was wearing. He also recommended dishes and explained the evening's special dishes. 

Prices for our starters were $168 and $138, while mains were $258 and $278. The pasta was $188.