When it comes to Japanese food, Hong Kong diners have plenty of choice. This abundancy of Japanese restaurants means that any Japanese restaurant that has been around for more than a few years and is still popular must be doing something right.

WasabiSabi was first open in 2002, and since then it has maintained a regular clientele, as well as maximising its locations above one of Hong Kong's busiest shopping malls. I recently had dinner there to see what about the cuisine had kept the restaurant in business for almost seven years.

A Rich Beginning
We decided on the five-course tasting menu as my dining companion was relatively new to Japanese and I thought this would be a good way to try a wider variety of dishes.

The first course consisted of yellowtail, sweet shrimp and salmon sashimi, and tuna and scallop sushi. All the selections were as fresh as expected. The shrimp was excellent, and the scallop was also of note, and was my companion's favourite.

Next was the Hot Dish Platter – Steamed Goose Liver Custard, King Crab Tempura, and Black Cod Teriyaki. I love the combination of egg custard and goose liver and this interpretation had a wonderful aftertaste and notes of yuzu. It was served in the egg shell.

The cod was wonderfully fatty and sweet, and the crab claw with its delightful presentation was the standout for us both. It was wrapped in seaweed, which balanced the decadent sweetness of the crab. All three dishes were rich.

Safe Choice 
Course three of Stir-fried Wagyu Beef with Onion Sauce, and French Beans with Walnut Mixed with Sesame Seed quickly followed.

The tender beef was stuffed with a variety of Japanese mushrooms and was heavy on the garlic. The beans an appropriate counter to the rich beef. The dish matched, perhaps even surpassed, the preceding dishes in terms of richness.

Knowing that there was only one more savoury course left we also ordered the recommended Soft Shell Crab Maki. It too was rich and tasty but I felt that one of the more inventive choices such as Seared Sea Urchin Sushi Roll with Geoduck may have been better. It was if the waiter was providing the safe suggestion, understandable.

A Satisfying Experience
The noodle course of Sakura Shrimp with Udon Noodle and Wakame Seaweed, served with cod roe and shiso, had a particularly enticing aroma. There were a lot of intense flavours all vying for attention, especially the dried shrimp, but in the end the dish had harmony and was surprisingly light. It was one of the best courses of the evening.

Dessert was the now classic Green Tea Tiramisu served with Red Bean and Green Tea Ice Cream.

Overall, it was a flavourful and satisfying meal and included the odd touch of “wow that was excellent”. While I wouldn't put it in the must-try category it is certainly on par with its many competitors, and the extensive menu is one of its strong points. And, I can see why it remains popular with shoppers before or after maxing out the credit card.

Service, Ambiance, Menu, Cost
The service was friendly and efficient, although at times too efficient and I felt a little rushed to finish the course at times and had to ask for the dish delivery to be slowed down. For those with not much time, say a bite before a movie, this would have been a plus.

The interior is dramatic and impressive with its red, black and silver interior, center catwalk, red sofas and mirrors that give the illusion of double height. I particularly liked the very Japanese-style floral display behind the sushi bar.

The restaurant boasts unique seating areas with swiveling C-shaped sofas that turn 360 degrees so late at night they can face the bar area, or if you want a private party for ten, two sofas can be turned to face each other.  In the center of the room are two communal tables that can host a party of 40 or more. Behind the communal tables are more intimate tables of two and 12-metre long sushi bar.

On a personal note, I disliked the smallish paper napkins when cloth would have been more in keeping with the restaurant. The ladies toilets have seen better days and would benefit from a revamp and spruce.

The restaurants food philosophy is “modern and creative and appealing to both the palate and the eye”.The extensive menu includes includes all the usual suspects, plus more unusual choices such as Soft Grilled Sun Dried Blow Fish, Braised Baby Snail in Sake, and Slow-Cooked Kobe Beef Cheek on Braised Japanese Turnip with Sweet Miso Sauce.

The tasting menu was priced at $588 per person, plus 10 per cent. The tasting menu changes on a regular basis, and prices may vary with each menu, depending on dishes and number of courses.

by Vicki Williams
November 2008

WasabiSabi
13/F Times Square
1 Matheson Road, Causeway Bay,
Hong Kong
2506 0009