Wyndham Street is becoming Hong Kong's version of Little Italy, with numerous Italian restaurants on both sides of the street. This is good news for the diner as with so many Italian restaurants in one street each restaurant needs to be doing its best to attract the hungry diner. One of the latest is W52. The restaurant serves dishes from all regions of Italy, and its mantra is Simply Italian. 

Not long after the restaurant opened I dined there for lunch and overall found it disappointing. Was this due to teething problems that most restaurants go through after opening I wondered. With several weeks in-between I went back for dinner to investigate and was pleasantly surprised.

Perfect Lobster 

Last time I had visited the Sauteed Artichokes stuffed with Pecorino Cheese had been unavailable so it was my choice for appetiser. My dining companion was tempted by the sweetbreads but ultimately settled on the Fresh Whole Lobster Salad.

We found the artichokes to be a bit hit and miss. When they were good they were delicious - the pecorino flavour was heightened from the cooking and complemented the taste of the fresh artichoke, which still retained its own flavour. When they were not good - they were too oily, all I could taste and feel in my mouth was oil. Thankfully most of them were good. My only real criticism is that they are not served with anything else on the plate and without any textural or taste contrast can become a little boring by the end.

The creatively-plated lobster salad was exceptional. The lobster was of excellent quality and oh so sweet and flavourful; the claw was almost juicy. It was served with sliced tomatoes (finally an Italian restaurant that uses decent tomatoes), olives and basil, and was seasoned with finesse. All the flavours worked well together and the balance was perfect. For both of us this was a 10 out of 10 dish!

The restaurant currently has a white truffle promotion (more details below) so for our pasta/risotto course we opted to share a serving of the White Truffle Risotto. It was cooked perfectly al dente and the chewy, yet creamy texture made it a joy to eat, with a wonderful mouthfeel. I wished that the shavings of truffle had been thicker, it was wafer thin and as a result almost melted and did not give the depth of flavour that I personally would have liked, which sometimes left the risotto tasting overly cheesy. You can choose to pay for extra truffle.

Lost for Words

The first thing that struck us about our main course choices of Pan-fried Fillet of Mackerel with Fennel and Orange and Pan-fried Wagyu Beef with Parmesan Cheese and Arugula Salad was the portion size, which I would call generous. The next was the taste of both dishes, which at times left me lost for words, especially the wagyu (which is served with a choice of three salts). The mains were clear examples of the Simply Italian motto, each dish with only a handful of quality ingredients, treated with respect. While I like having meals on the Ferran Adria end of the scale I also enjoy simple dishes made with fantastic produce, where only the minimum is done to highlight the flavours.

The fish was perfectly cooked, in butter, which added a sense of decadence to the lightness of the fish. The orange segments were bursting with flavour as if it has just been plucked from the tree and was served as part of the fennel and orange salad. The shavings of fennel provided contrast without being overwhelming. Eaten together the salad elevated the fish, and the vibrant flavours danced in the mouth bringing joy to the palate.

When I tried the wagyu, which was simply served with shavings of parmesan and some fresh rocket, I was transported to a place of ecstasy. We had asked for it to be cooked between rare and medium-rare so that the steak had reached a high enough temperature for the fat to melt, and it was sinfully good. The rocket was the perfect partner as the peppery notes and the taste of green freshness balanced out the boldness and richness of the beef. My dining partner called it exquisite. 

In many ways cooking simple dishes takes more skill; the skill of the chef and his team was evident in both of these dishes.

Cheesy End

To end the meal we decided on the Sage-flavoured Lemon Bavarese with Lavender Sauce, and the Cheese Plate. The bavarese was beautifully presented to look like a butterfly. It was bursting with the essence of lemon and the notes of sage were subtle yet still present. The sauce had a strong vanilla flavour and floral notes, although we could not truly distinguish the lavender. I found it a tad too sweet, and thought that there were too many flavours on the plate that individually were nice, but didn't work together.

The cheeseboard consisted of six cheeses (yak's, parmesan, tagleggio, gorgonzola, scamorza and pecorino), crackers, slices of apple, walnuts, and the fantastically addictive honey dipping sauce that contains honey, caramel and cinnamon...and perhaps a secret ingredient or two. The dipping sauce is particularly suited to the yak's cheese, which has a certain intensity that will not be for the faint-hearted, but that we both loved. All of the cheeses were good, each with a distinct flavour and texture that leaves you feeling satisfied, and we found that all of them go well with the sauce. The suitably strong double espressos a fitting finish.

My second visit to W52 was so different, so outstanding, that I was surprised, it was as if I had eaten at two different places. I think the first visit was too early and now all the kinks have been worked out. I hope a third visit proves me right.

Ambience, Service, Price

W52 is set over four floors. The downstairs area is a bar and casual dining space, and a very interesting bathroom. The next two floors are the main dining areas, and the top floor is home to the kitchen and a kitchen table for eight. The main dining floors are tastefully decorated, with interesting design touches including the feature back wall with its geometric pattern and the wooden panels with their interesting multiple angles that are featured on the walls and ceiling. There are also large windows with views over Wyndham Street, and a balcony for two on each floor; definitely a romantic spot. In the day the feeling is light and bright, and in the evening more intimate with flickering candles on each table. Large spaces between tables give a sense of openness. Overall it has a modern, welcoming ambience.

The service is great. My friend, who arrived early was particularly impressed. Ordering a drink in the downstairs bar area the staff offered him a magazine and also helped him to connect to the internet, and a rather tasty and spicy tomato dipping sauce and cracker-like bread stick were given to him with his delicious fig caipirinha. Upstairs we also thought the staff were good. All that you look for - friendly, knowledgeable and able to make recommendations - both food and wine.

Prices for the dishes we enjoyed in respective order are: $140, $210, $480, $270, $360, $90 and $110. The wine menu provides something for all tastes with many Italian wines. We ordered Italian wines from the by-the-glass menu that has a selection that is able to match the dishes, including sparkling and dessert wines; prices start from $85.

The pasta and risotto choices are available in a full or half size portions, with prices starting from $120 for half size and $180 for full size. Much of the pasta is homemade, as are other ingredients such as the sun-dried tomatoes. The white truffle menu is available until 20 December with a selection of five a la carte items or a four-course set menu with wine pairings for $960 per person.

Images: Images are of dishes found on the a la carte and white truffle menus, although not part of this review dinner.