Tuscany by H is one of the top rated Italian restaurants in WOM Guide 2009. After two meals there recently I can understand why. The dishes are all so appealing, the food cooked with a deft hand and the service is solid.

The man behind the restaurant is the well-known chef Harlan Goldstein, who has many foodie admirers. For me his affable and somewhat commanding presence in the restaurant provided a connection between the diner and the kitchen, adding to the pleasant evening.

In the Chef's Hands

Choosing what to eat was difficult, everything sounded delicious, especially the eight specials, which were explained in depth. Tempting specials for me were the 36-month aged Parma Ham served with Organic Tomatoes, Burrata Cheese and White Truffle Honey appetiser and the Meyer's Beef main - Meyer's is a must-try beef. Yet the a la carte dishes of Hand Selected Cold Cuts with its claim to be the best you have ever tasted; the Beef Carpaccio with Shaved Foie Gras, Porcini Salsa and White Truffle Dressing; and the signature Lobster Spaghetti with Napoli Tomatoes and Fresh Basil were also calling out to me.

My dining companion was also finding it hard to decide, so we let the decision up to Harlan and ordered Harlan's Tasting Experience. A personalised menu, which in our case featured dishes from the specials, the a la carte menu, and a few that were created in the moment.

We began with a teasing taster of Parma Ham and Organic Tomatoes with a touch of balsamic. The ham left a lovely salty taste in the mouth and the tomato was as good as one expects from quality organic produce - full of flavour.

Next was Baked Jumbo Hokkaido Sea Scallops with Fresh Herb Crust, served on wild mushroom puree. This dish was one of the specials and the scallops had arrived that day. The dish was presented in a scallop shell, which sat on top a bed of sea salt, chilli flakes and dried herbs. The scallop was sensational, expertly cooked to perfection with great texture and sweet flavour. I liked all the elements of the dish on their own but for me I found the scallop became just another player on the stage instead of the star when eaten in combination. My dining companion on the other hand really enjoyed the combination of sweet and light sea notes with the earthy and rustic nature of the herbs and mushrooms. This got us wondering about the intention behind the dish, perhaps it was to combine finesse with homeyness. Whatever its intention we appreciated the thought that had gone into the dish.

Pasta, of Course

One of the restaurant's key specialities is its hand-crafted pasta dishes, with ten choices on the a la carte and two on the specials the night we visited. The pasta had been a highlight of my previous visit. This is a restaurant that understands the meaning of al dente and unlike some Italian restaurants that have adjusted the meaning for local tastes, this is al dente as it would be in Italy.

For my enjoyment on my second visit was one of the signature pasta dishes from the a la carte, Wagyu Beef Cheek Ravioli. In our case it was served with a jus and black truffle sauce, garnished with a roasted cherry tomato. One thing I liked about the serving staff was their knowledge, when placing the dish they would say what the dish was, but if you were interested to know more they were armed with all the details you would need. In the case of this dish after explaining it in more detail he said that the dish "plays with the palate", which I loved. 

There is something about the pairing of beef with truffle that always makes me believe in a higher power, it is such a divine partnership. This was a satisfying dish to eat with its seamless harmony of beef and truffle flavours. The beef so tender it could be cut with a fork and the pasta had the bite it should. It was a dish to linger over with the flavours becoming even more pronounced when it cooled.

We were also served a plate of Seafood Angelhair Pasta. The pasta had been finished in a clam and shrimp sauce and was served with fresh clams, shrimp and salmon. The aroma was a delight of ocean freshness. All the seafood was cooked with a deft hand, with the prawns being crunchy on the outside and succulent on the inside. Unfortunately, I am not a fan of clams and the sauce had a strong clam flavour so I could not get into this dish. I should have asked what type of seafood when we were told that this would be one of the courses at the start. However, if you are a fan of clams you would be a lover of this dish.

Rustic Flavours

Pan Seared Chilean Seabass with Chorizo and Vine-Ripened Cherry Tomato Ragout was the next course. This was another dish that juxtaposed delicate and rustic flavours. The fish, also fresh that day, was delicate and light with great bite, while the sauce was rustic with a capital R. An intense tomato sauce with herbs and slices of salty, salty chorizo. While the two distinct flavours could have clashed they worked in harmony; an interesting dish that I liked a lot.

The final savoury course was the USDA Angus Prime, another of the night's specials. A single piece of beef served with roasted potato, a half roasted garlic and roast cherry tomato. The steak almost looked like an eye, the outer ring of beef was well done and the rest was rare to medium rare. Superb flavour and I enjoyed the textural contrast of the two doneness levels of the meat. The potato was outstanding, brilliant flavour, and the garlic slid out of the skin with ease. Yum!

Firm Favourite

Fried Brioche, Pistachio Parfait and Chocolate "Salami" with Vanilla Cream was dessert. The parfait was delicious with lots of pieces of pistachio and the chocolate salami was intriguing with a slightly salty note to the rich chocolate flavour. Multiple textures, temperatures and flavours made for a fine end to the meal. 

This was followed by a double espresso and a glass of the delightful Moscato D'Asti, La Spinetta.

After two excellent meals at Tuscany by H it has now become one of my favourite places for Italian food.

Ambience, Service, Price

The restaurant has a warm ambience, a combination of the staff, the space between tables and the ochre and orange tones on the walls; the colours very Tuscan. There is also a sense of elegance. A place for a large group of Italian food fans to a special occasion for romance, and everything in-between. I liked the eclectic collection of black and white photos on the main room wall, largely snapshots of quintessential Italian life. The restaurant also has a private room.

The service was great. As mentioned the staff have a depth of food knowledge for those interested or can be more casual, depending on the diner. All the suggested wine pairings worked well. We enjoyed a glass each of Chardonnay Hawk's Crest, Stag's Leap; Chianti Colli Fiorentina, Lucignano; and Moscato D'Asti, La Spinetta.

The price for Harlan's Tasting Experience is $880 per person minimum, final price depending on ingredients and number of courses. Appetisers, Soups and Salads are priced at $88-$188; Hand Crafted Pasta $148-$198 entree size (a bigger size is also available); Mains are priced at $220-$380. The restaurant also does a three-course set lunch for $198 per person, with appetisers and soups from the buffet, a choice of five mains, plus a dessert; a fresh juice and tea or coffee is included. 

Related Restaurants

• Tuscany by H