I have had a glass or two of wine at Tivo and enjoyed the complimentary canapes, while other drinkers munch on a pizza. I  have also seen the crowds of “beautiful” people spilling out on to the sidewalk on the weekends.

But what I recently discovered is that Tivo is also a restaurant serving interesting and contemporary Italian cuisine. 

Palate Stimulation



My dining partner and I went with the Tasting Menu, which I feel is a great way to better understand the chef and his philosophy towards food.

An amuse bouche of Sweet Corn and Basil Broth with Baby Scallop was first. Sweetly served in an espresso cup it was creamy, with a pleasant, but not overwhelming corn taste. The scallop pieces were delicious although one or two more would have been nice.  I also would have liked to have more basil as the flavour worked well, but it was more a garnish than an ingredient.  



With our palates stimulated it was on to the entree, Sugar Cured Salmon with Braised Fennel, Chive and Capsicum Emulsion. The rich salmon was served with fennel, rocket and olive, with a hint of citrus acidity. A delightfully presented dish with a good balance of flavours that harmoniously sat side by side.

Simple is Best
With big appetites and thoughts of when in Naples, we also ordered the San Daniele Pizza – cepe mushrooms, San Daniele ham, rocket. It was a tough choice as all nine pizza options sounded tasty.

The pizza was reminiscent of those I enjoyed in Italy, with its thin crust, fresh tomato sauce and ingredients such as rocket, added just before serving. I would have liked more of the mushroom as the sweet but small and sparse pieces served merely to tease, although the salty ham was satisfying and complementary to the rocket.  

Back to the tasting menu and time for the pasta course, Fresh Squid Ink Tagliolini, Black Lip Mussels, Chilli, Garlic and Parsley. The pasta was light with unexpected citrus after notes, and a chilli kick at the end. It was served with fresh squid pieces and the shelled mussels. A simple dish that allowed the pasta to be the carrier for the other flavours and a welcome relief from the kitchen-sink approach to pasta, which combines too many flavours or embellishments.

A Valuable Discovery
The main course was Barberry Duck Breast, Baby Beetroot, Kale, Peas and Barolo Reduction. Personally, I think beetroot is not used enough, but in this dish it was one of the stars, especially the beetroot jelly. We later discovered that the jelly contained cinnamon and star anise, which gave the vegetables a wonderful woody, spiciness and the body to match the duck's rich intensity.



Some of the duck was too rare and as a result was tough and chewy, but other parts were perfect. One textural element we enjoyed was the addition of two thinly sliced, deep-fried potato pieces. When paired with the duck the crispness and saltiness of the potato almost tricked the mind into thinking it was eating crispy duck skin; perhaps a nod to Heston Blumenthal.

For dessert, Passion Fruit Madeleines Fresh Lime and Malibu Ice Cream, and Mango and Frangipane Roll with Apricot Ice Cream and Pistachio Coulis. While my companion enjoyed the madeleines, unquestionably for us the better dessert was the mango rolls. The creative and delicious dish played with different textures, such as the soft mango inside the crunchy pastry rolls. I also enjoyed the combining of different temperatures - warm rolls contrasting with the cold ice cream. 



We both really enjoyed the food at Tivo and felt like we had made a valuable discovery. The chef is preparing well-executed, imaginative dishes that incorporate playful texture and temperature contrasts; all the  plating is visually appealing.

Ambience, Wine, Service
Tivo calls itself a dining bar rather than a bar or restaurant, and only seats 32 for dinner. While it can feel a bit like eating in a bar and not a restaurant, with the right company any discomfort is soon forgotten. On the night we had dinner, other diners included tai-tais, suits, and those that have already discovered this low-key place for value-for-money Italian food that tastes good.

The staff were friendly and efficient; the effervescent manager Warren giving personal attention to all diners.



The chic interior is very David Yeo, with the two main design features being the wood veneer pendant lights (poor man's chandelier) set against a backdrop of glowing “wine-shelves”, and the oval centre piece bar with concave sides.

The name "tivo" is short for “aperitivo” - a light alcoholic drink before lunch or dinner, often served with free snacks in an Italian bar. Faithful to its Italian roots, Tivo offers  complimentary canapes every evening.

There are more than 20 wines available by the glass and an extensive list of wines by the bottle, sourced from both the New and Old World.

Tivo also serves Sunday brunch from 11.30-6pm, offering a contemporary selection of breakfast options titled: from the Juice Bar, Slightly Sweet and Light, The Eggs, Side Dishes, Savoury Dishes and Traditional Tivo Pizzas, alongside a selection of newspapers and magazines. Its ultimate hangover cure is the breakfast organic egg and bacon pizza with Maldon sea salt.

by Vicki Williams
September 2008

Tivo
Ground Floor,
43 Wyndham Street,
Central
2116 8055