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Joia

Vicki Williams Published 01.05.2008

Italian restaurant Joia opened last November at Elements to mixed reviews. In response owner and restaurateur Pino Piano decide to rework the menu, which led me to dine there recently to see how it rated in the competitive Italian cuisine stakes.

A Mixed Start
A selection of Italian breads with olive oil & vinegar, a tomato and garlic puree, and pureed chickpeas for dipping was brought to our table while deciding what to order.

The menu has a range of tempting sounding antipasti dishes and it took us a while to decide which to try. We ended up selecting the classic Mozzarella di Bufala Campana alla Caprese, rounds of Neapolitan buffalo mozzarella and fresh tomato, a sprinkle of fresh basil and a drizzle of olive oil. Executed well this simple dish has the potential to be divine, but we found ours to be lacking…both the cheese and the tomato were short on flavour, the latter tasting nothing like the heavenly tomatoes I enjoyed when travelling around Italy.

On the other hand the Tagliata di Astice con Mela Verda, Mango e Gelatina al Campari was an uplifting experience. Slices of Boston lobster so fresh that it tasted like it had just been caught was served with tiny cubes of green apple, mango and Campari jelly. Everything about this dish, from the presentation to the tart lift of the jelly, was impressive.

Creative and Comforting
Our third starter was Tartare di Branzino Profumata alla Cannella con Neve al Limone and Salvia su Pan Brioche, which we choose because the combination of flavours sounded adventurous. A round of cinnamon-scented sea bass tartare and brioche sat on a bed of spinach leaves and tomato, topped with a scoop of lemon and sage sherbet and adorned with two squid ink grissini. The spice and fish combination worked surprisingly well and the tart and savoury sorbet deftly cut through the sweetness. The clean and light dish was a visual and taste delight. The intentional variety of textures and temperatures gave it a molecular gastronomy feel.

We also shared Strozzapreti con Gamberi, Porcini e Vongole, homemade twists of pasta with prawns, porcini mushroom and clams. The pasta was al dente with a wonderful texture and mouthfeel. While slightly overseasoned for us it had the robust, rustic taste of a dish someone’s Nonna used to make. It was comforting and enjoyable to eat. The modern aspect of the dish was its presentation. It was served in a wax paper origami-style box, which was opened at the table for maximum olfactory stimulation for the diner. The aroma was mouthwatering.

A Tough Choice

We both found it difficult to choose a secondi because none of the ten choices had us salivating in anticipation and excitement. Eventually we settled on Tagliatella di Frittata con Zucchine, Porri e Porcini con Crema di Parmigiano and Branzino Cotto al Sale Grosso Profumato al Limone e Rosmarino.

My dining companion selected the omelette because it’s unusual to see this dish served in the evening and because the parmesan cream intrigued him. The zucchini, leeks and mushroom omelette was just that…a passable omelette with little creative flair. The parmesan cream turned out to be more a decoration than part of the dish and while tasty the drips around the omelette were not enough to add anything to the dish. It left us wondering if this was a token vegetarian dish.

The other choice was described as oven-baked whole sea bass in a rosemary and lemon scented rock salt. Served senza its head it was not technically whole (nitpicking I know) and for us the scented rock salt was hardly discernable. This left a rather unappetising looking fish that tasted fine but without a crispy skin or crunch of salt had no textural definition. It was served with a selection of vegetables.

The mains were in such culinary contrast with the starters that we thought we may have ordered the wrong dishes, but for us they were the most appealing, as described on the menu.

Sweet Redemption
Not deterred by this disappointment we pressed on and ordered dolci, which was a wise move as they lifted us back to the dining high we had been on after the starters.

My dining partner ordered the recommended Tiramisu al Bicchiere con Cioccolate di Riso Soffiato e Frutti di Bosco and I opted for the Pana Cotta al Pepe di Sichuan con Granita di Mandarino e Croccante di Grue.

The tiramisu was seductively creamy and chocolatey and I wanted to climb into bed with it. We could not discern the rice crispies but the wild berries were a nice lift.

The inspired Sichuan pepper panna cotta with mandarin granite and cocoa beans was delicious. The heat from the pepper mellowed by the cream and refreshed by the mandarin ice. An arresting and inventive dish that must have resulted after trying various combinations until the perfect matches were discovered.

Being served in elegant martini-style glasses resulted in a perfect portion of sweetness that even the full diner could squeeze in.

We finished the meal with a double espresso and a glass of grappa, which the restaurant has a variety to choose from, and was a pleasant and authentic way to end the meal.

A Return Visit
At the end I was left wondering if perhaps two chefs had developed the menu, one highly creative and talented had come up with the starters, pasta and desserts, and the other chef not as talented responsible for mains.

I would go back, but next time I would not order a main, I would try some of the other starters, pasta and risotto, and desserts. I would also like to try a pizza, which just like in Italy featured a large, thin-crust pizza, bigger than the plate it is served on, topped with only two or three quality ingredients.

What Else
The interior features lots of natural touches, such as the use of mini logs to cover the air-con vents and rustic wood paneling in the private room. A pale blue wall at the back of the restaurant gives the appearance of an empty fish tank. Also of note are the two eclectic hand-made (in Italy) light fittings using designer eyewear to recreate the look of a chandelier. The decor as my dining companion so aptly put it juxtaposes straight and rigid lines with organic elements.

The substantial wine list is focused on Italian wines and is divided into regions, with a smattering of non-Italian wines. The staff are happy to make recommendations and we enjoyed a nice bottle of pinot grigio.