As part of our value-for-money buffet series I turn the spotlight on Olive. Its Sunday Brunch is not only value for money, it is delicious. The dishes on the buffet table are as colourful as any Middle Eastern bazaar and everything has been prepared fresh that day. I was glad that I arrived hungry as it all looked so appealing and I was determined to try a little of everything. 

Dip In

We began the meal with a little of each of the dips - Hummus, Baba Ganoush, Tahini Yoghurt, Minted Yoghurt and Harissa (roasted red capsicum, chilli, cumin, coriander, garlic) with the two types of home-made bread, and the pickled vegetables/cheese/olives. My favourites were the creamy hummus with hints of cumin, and the baba ganoush - the eggplant had a roasted, smoky flavour that gave the dip depth.

The pickled vegetables were a bit of a shock for us both, we found the acidity level to be too high. It reminded me of drinking vinegar, which was one of my Mum's hiccup cures when I was young. The olives, however, were outstanding, I loved the warm tones that were a result of marinating the olives with fennel seeds and herbs. They were good enough to be bottled and sold.

Knowing your Spices

Salads are a big part of the cuisines of Greece and the Middle East and this is reflected in the Olive buffet. The Sunday we dined there were nine different salads.

I began with the Fattoush, always a favourite of mine. A salad consisting of toasted Lebanese bread, cucumber, tomato, radish, red onion, parsley, often with an olive oil and lemon dressing, mint and sumac. I loved Olive's interpretation, it was fresh, tasty, and the crunchy radish, which was not too hot, gave it contrasting texture.

Next for me was the Mushroom Salad, which consisted of portabello mushrooms that had been roasted with thyme and ras el hanout. Ras el Hanout is a spice mix that has a reputation of being at the pinnacle of all spice blends with over 20 ingredients brought together to make a harmonious mix. It usually includes cardamon, clove, cinnamon, paprika, coriander, cumin, mace, nutmeg, peppercorn and turmeric. For me this salad was OK, really just a personal thing as there was nothing inherently wrong with the dish, but it did not shine as bright as some of the other salads.

One that did stand out was the Roasted Pumpkin with Chickpeas. So delicious was this salad that we both went back for seconds, and upon further investigation it is also a favourite of the executive chef Michael Van Warmelo. It consisted of butternut pumpkin roasted with chermoula and pomegranate molasses. Chermoula is another herb/spice mix that can have different combinations, but usually pairs robust spices such as cumin, paprika and turmeric with the freshness of onion, parsley and coriander, with hints of garlic. I found this salad to be comforting, warming and sweet (in a good way), with the chickpeas adding textural body.

Individual Flavours

Another wow for me was the Roasted Fennel Salad, with lemon and golden ras el hanout. Fennel is a vegetable with a strong anise taste that is normally the dominate flavour, but in this case the unexpected intense lemon and bursts of spice were the leaders. I went back for more of this salad.

The constraints of word limit prevent me from going into detail about the rest of the salads, other than to say they were all good, and each had a unique flavour, quite an achievement when many of the spices used are similar. There was Greek Salad with Wild Rocket; Green Bean Salad - slow cooked green beans with tomato, onion, cumin and paprika; Potato Salad  - kipfler potatoes with harissa paste and yoghurt; Honeydew Melon and Cantaloupe with Feta; and Bourghal Salad  - cracked wheat with onion, chilli, parsley and mint.

Dimension and Balance

There was also a selection of three hot dishes: two tagines - Chermoula Roasted Vegetables with Cous Cous; and Chicken with Preserved Lemon, Green Olives and Mograbiah (large cous cous); and a Mixed Grill - two cuts of chicken and lamb. My favourite was the chicken tagine. It was a hearty, spice-warming dish and the addition of the green olives and lemon gave the dish dimension and an important sour contrast to the richness of the sauce. 

We also ordered a serving of falafel. The deep-fried patties were shaped like a mini mosque. They were excellent, with texture, spice and a richness that you don't find often in Hong Kong. They were served with the refreshing tabbouleh that gave the dish balance.

Sweet and Strong

For dessert there was a Lemon Syrup Cake, Karythopita - Greek walnut cake, Lemon Curd Yoghurt with Honey, Pastries, Turkish Delight and Halawa, and fresh fruit. While I enjoyed all the desserts I thought the walnut cake was divine, especially with the drizzle of syrup. Its moist, sweetness the perfect followup to all the warming spice of the savoury dishes. We finished with a glass of Turkish coffee with its hints of cardamon, complete with cardamon pod - the best I have had in the city.

Overall the food at the buffet is true to its roots, but is not stuck in tradition. In order to create authentic cuisine many of the key ingredients, such as the cracked wheat, spices and Tahini, are from Lebanon, sent to the chef by a friend. This results in dishes that give you a taste of what you would experience if in the country of origin, yet the stylish interpretation and visual and flavour dimension has the unique stamp of the passionate executive chef and his team.

Ambience, Service, Price

I had eaten at Olive during the evening and had thought the decor was both welcoming and stylish, however it is during the day that the interior really shines, almost literally. When the sun filters in through the gradient green window detailing it takes on the appearance of a relaxing green sea. The gold detailing in the ceiling is also more evident. The Middle Eastern sounding music adds to the ambience.

The service was efficient and the manager is welcoming and knowledgeable about the dishes. One small complaint - we were served room temperature mineral water, not a big deal, but if there is a choice of water temperatures the diner should be asked. The champagne glasses were brought to the table wet.

At first appearance the buffet selection may seem too small, it is certainly smaller than many restaurant buffets. However, instead of feeling overwhelmed by choice and as a result being overly full, I was able to try everything without feeling ill by the end. I feel that the amount of food available is perfect, and with each dish tasting different the choices are more than adequate. The serving bowls and plates are also kept small so that everything is as fresh as possible, with limited quantities of each dish. 

While both Olive (SoHo) and Olive (Elements) share the same a la carte menu only the Elements restaurant has the Sunday Brunch, which is available from 12 noon-4pm; dishes change each week. It is priced at $158 or $238 including free flow Zonin Prosecco; children can enjoy the brunch for $88. Also unique to the Elements branch is the Mezza Bar with a happy hour daily (5.30-7.30) and Mezza Menu, and the alfresco area. The restaurant also has an express lunch for only $78 and a set lunch - two courses for $128 and three for $158, which many obvious regulars were enjoying the day we visited.

Images: all images used are from the a la carte menu.