I don't have any scientific method that I employ when deciding which of the many restaurants in Hong Kong to review. Sometimes it is obvious - a new opening that has created a buzz, sometimes it comes recommended to me by fellow foodies, and sometimes it comes about unexpectedly.

In the case of JW's California it was the result of a media lunch to introduce the new chef de cuisine, Spanish native, Jordi Villegas. An avid fan of pork he presented a menu that featured a different part of the pig in each dish, right through to a dessert featuring bacon and chocolate. Many of the dishes left me wanting more but one dish captured my attention so much that I decided I needed to try some of the other dishes that Villegas has introduced to the menu.

In the Chef's Hands

We left ourselves in the hands of the chef and after an off-menu, produce-driven salad of crab, avocado, lime and basil granita we were presented with two starters: Pan Seared Canadian Scallops, Chestnut, Caviar Sauce, and Foie Gras Ravioli, Beef Oxtail Consomme. 

The enjoyable scallop dish demonstrated a harmonious flavour profile with sweet (from quince puree), salty and savoury elements combining to lengthen the taste of the scallops.

My favourite part of the other starter was the fabulous consomme, packed with flavour that defied its clear appearance. The rich pasta had the body to hold its own against the beef, and the dish was given further decadence by the addition of black truffle, which the chef had just received.

One starter that we were hoping to enjoy was the 36 Month Cured 5J Spanish Iberico Ham, Tomato Focaccia, Mozzarella, Wild Rocket, maybe next time. 

The Attention-Grabbing Dish

Seared Wild Sea Bass, Ricotta Gnocchi, Black Olives, Artichoke Hearts was next. The perfectly cooked fish with its crispy skin was a delight to eat and was topped with a tomato and basil sauce. Although tasty we found the gnocchi to be a little heavy going, but the beef jus that was drizzled around them was an unexpected complement to the fish. Overall a surprisingly rich dish.

The dish I make mention of in the intro, and the one request of the night, followed - Crispy Suckling Pig Confit, Warm Mango, Red Wine Jus. On both occasions the skin was so crispy it almost shattered like glass and for me the flesh tender and oh so porky...this time there was almost too much fat for me but not enough to stop me finishing it all. My dining companion was as enraptured by the skin as I but said his meat was a little dry. The mango adds a contrasting fresh tart sweetness that stops the dish from being too much; the foolhardy may choose to have fries served with this dish. I enjoyed this dish so much the first time that I had totally blocked the jus from my mind until I saw it again...the first time it tasted burnt...the second time the burnt flavour was not as pronounced but it still came through abruptly, leaving an overall bitter taste in the mouth and for us did not do anything for the pork. As it was similar both times perhaps this is intentional. Regardless of the jus this is a dish that I would order again and again.

Back for More 

For dessert we were definitely in the chef's hands. On quieter nights Villegas makes off-menu Crepe Suzette tableside, in itself a treat - not many chefs in his position would do this - and he does it with grace and charm, which includes the tale of the dessert's origin and the obligatory flambé. From the taste through to the texture it was a delight to eat and I would also order it again and again. Another of the chef's sweet additions to the menu is Chocolate BOOM!!! A ball of chocolate (with sparkler) contains fondant, vanilla ice cream and chocolate crunch. 

There is nothing complicated or challenging about Villegas' food...it is about taking quality produce and enhancing it through skilful execution (and heart) to produce dishes with flavour integrity that makes you want to come back for more. If I was not going to be in Australia I would be reserving a place to experience Villegas' Head to Tail pork event on 25 February - seven courses, including the suckling pig confit.

Ambience, Service, Price

The restaurant occupies a big space and this can sometimes be a problem when it comes to creating that sense of welcoming warmth that you look for in a restaurant, which for me is the case here. This is not helped by the hard furnishings and floor-to-ceiling glass windows, which are nice in the day but not so much in the night. And there is something about the long room that reminds me of a cruise ship. The interior works in the day but in the night it left me feeling a little cold.

While all the service was to the level you would expect from a quality hotel it was Ryan that stood out. He has been with the restaurant for some time and his attention to detail, knowledge of the dishes and personal demeanour warrant special mention.

Prices in order of above dishes: $135, $95 (without truffle), $265, $275, crepes $120, a la carte desserts range in price from $95 to $165.