Modern Thai restaurant Lotus has been popular since its opening and for good reason. The food is superb, the cocktails rock and the atmosphere is conducive to letting dinner merge into a big night out. 

The restaurant is also only one of three restaurants in Hong Kong to have received “Hot List Table 2007” recognition from Conde Nast Traveler magazine.

The menu is the creation of Australian chef Will Meyrick, formerly of famous Australian restaurant Jimmy Liks. His inspired menu finds its origins in the street food of South East Asia, especially Thailand and Indonesia.

A Signature Beginning
For starters we ordered the signature dish of Smoked Eel served on Betel Leaf with Dried Shrimp, Galangal, Chilli and Ocean Trout Roe. These delicate morsels were weird and delicious at the same time. Explosions of eel, galangal, roe, coriander and chilli kept the palate entertained and the chewy texture of the leaf ensured that the fresh flavour journey was lasting.

Also of note were the Freshly Shucked Oysters with Red Nam Jihm and Deep Fried Shallot. The flavour combinations worked so well with the crunchiness of the shallot in perfect harmony with the creaminess of the succulent oyster. The oysters are obviously a popular choice for when we went to order some more were told they were sold out.

Authentic Flavours
The Grilled Prawns with Pomelo, Garlic, Lemongrass, Mint and Nam Jihm was a heady, spicy mix. The bursts of tart pomelo juice from the segments providing a counterbalance to the spice of the nam jihm, while the mint refreshed the palate tempting us to eat more.

Crispy Salmon with Watermelon, Ginger, Thai Basil and Roasted Eschallot Chilli Dressing followed. This signature dish is delicious, light and refreshing, and at the same time a big “meaty” affair. The addition of watermelon is inspired.

We also shared the sinfully good Crispy Duck with Yellow Bean, Ginger, Tamarind and Mandarin. The duck was divine and the sauce elicited comments of “wow”, “so good” and “exquisite”. The tactile eating style of the dish added to the decadent experience.

An enormous serving of Morning Glory with Garlic, Chilli and Yellow Bean rounded out the meal.

We found the majority of the dishes to be a little on the large side, which prevented us from sampling some of the other yummy options.

Sweet Finish
Lotus is a restaurant that requires you to bring a big appetite or a group of friends, made abundantly clear by the gargantuan Dessert Tasting Platter. It was enough food for at least four diners and so the two of us were unable to do it justice. It included, what appeared to be full servings of all the desserts. Particularly good was Ginger Caramel Custard with Banana Wrapped in Sticky Rice, Taro and Crisp Shallot Cake with Coconut Icecream, and Sago and Sweet Corn Pudding with Pandans and Palm Sugar Dumpling.

Lotus serves authentic cuisine that is rooted in tradition, and has been creatively and boldly modernised by a talented chef, resulting in excellent food that is true to its origins.

Service
Eating at Lotus is quick because the menu does not have a traditional starter, main format and at time the eager staff hastened the process, not a good thing. Dishes and plates were sometimes removed before we had finished, which was the case with the duck, leaving us feeling disappointed and robbed of the pleasure of finishing the heavenly sauce.

By contrast the dessert took a long time to arrive, but we utilised the time to try one of the signature cocktails, which is a must.

Décor, Ambience
The décor is fresh and trendy. It features curved wooden ceiling/wall slats, carved teak design elements, and red and brown leather.

The cocktail bar is packed from about 9pm onwards and the whole place takes on an upbeat club feel. The bar crowd can create a lot of traffic through the restaurant as drinkers head to the bathrooms, which could have been cleaner the night we went. If you want a quite dinner go early as the progressively thumping tunes making conversation more difficult as the night goes on.

Wine, Cocktails
The wine list is minimal, but adequate and the manager is happy to recommend a wine to match your meal. The real focus here is on the cocktails and every diner appeared to have at least one.

Signature cocktails from celebrity mixologist Grant Collins include the Appleflower Martini, Grilled Pineapple and Cracked Pepper Martini, Burnt Lemon and Vanilla Margherita, and the Rose Mojito. The cocktails are one reason the bar attracts the hip crowd.

Lotus – 37-43 Pottinger Street, 2543 6290,www.lotus.hk

by Vicki Williams
vicki@womguide.com