Everyone has their favourite Italian restaurant and given the number of choices in Hong Kong opinions on the best are varied and staunchly defended. A favourite of  Princess Ira von Furstenberg is Angelini, who was impressed by the authentic and varied menu.

It seems that the restaurant is also a favourite of many Italians as a number of other diners on the night I visited were speaking Italian and seemed to know the chef well. For me a sign of a restaurant serving authentic cuisine is when it attracts the patronage of  the locals, in this case Italians.

In the Chef's Hands

I had met the passionate head chef Vittorio Lucariello on two previous occasions and it was easy to see that he put his heart into his food so when he suggested that we leave our food choices up to him I was happy to do so.

Just in time for the last days of the white truffle menu the first dish on our culinary adventure was Scallop Carpaccio in Parmesan Broth with White Truffle. A sublime dish, the scallop's texture was perfect, the parmesan broth rich but light and the white truffle elevated the dish in a way that only white truffle can. As expected the dish disappeared quickl

Next was Beef Tail Ragu with White Tuscan Cannellini Beans with a dusting of cocoa powder. A robust, homey dish that could easily have been based on grandma's secret recipe, given sophistication and depth from the cocoa powder. The tender, flavourful and rich meat almost melting in the mouth and the beans were the perfect partner adding lightness.

Truffle Heaven

Having recently decided that you can never have enough white truffle I was thrilled to be served Beef Carpaccio rolled with Burrata Cheese on Jerusalem Artichoke with White Truffle with a drizzle of pesto around the edges and a potato crisp. Another outstanding, inspired dish. I don't know why, but I do know that anytime I have tried beef (cooked or not) with white truffle the truffle takes on a chameleon quality that allows it to hold its own against beef with the flavour becoming even more intense. They really are perfect partners. The creamy Burrata cheese (an artisanal, fresh cheese made of mozzarella and cream) also worked well with the beef. This was a dish where everything on the plate was there for a reason, the Jerusalem artichoke and the potato adding textural and flavour contrasts.

Spaghetti Chitarra with Cured Lard and Pecorino Cheese with White Truffle was the pasta course. The square spaghetti (Vittorio is a fan of using artisanal and hard-to-find-outside-of-Italy ingredients) has a more robust mouth feel compared to round spaghetti and was a good vehicle for the cured lard, which had a roasted pan drippings intensity. We felt that the truffle, while present, was a little bit overwhelmed by the lard, but we also wouldn't say no to eating more of the dish.


Intensity Builds

Pan-Fried Red Snapper served on Tomato & Wild Oregano Sauce with Basil Extra Virgin Olive Oil was an example of a deceptively simple dish that was a delight to eat. The thing with simple dishes is that the ingredients must be top quality and the dish  must be perfectly executed, which this dish was. The tomato sauce had obviously been seriously reduced to develop an intensity and the flavours were authentic, but there was more to it than that. Vittorio (who likes to come out and interact with guests) explained that a piece of beef had been cooked in the tomato sauce, imparting a richness to the  sauce. He said that in Italy the sauce is served with pasta and then the meat is eaten as the second course.

The peak of our meal came in the form of the decadent Pork Belly Served Two Ways. On one side of the plate was tender pieces of pork meat and garlic on toasted bread that we were instructed to eat first. This got the palate ready for the luscious square of slow-cooked (nine hours) pork belly, a true guilty pleasure that was so good to eat. It was given textural depth by the addition of a parmesan crisp.

Time for Sweets

Our pre-dessert was a delicious spoonful of Citron Custard with Grapefruit. The simultaneous sweet and sour notes was a fantastic cleanser for the palate after the previous rich course.

We shared a Dessert Platter consisting of the classic Cannoli, Homemade Hazelnut Ice Cream and Cherry Sponge Cake.  We liked the cannoli the least, the cream filling itself with notes of citrus peel was tasty but the shell was a little oily in taste. We loved the super intense hazelnut ice cream served with chocolate sauce, and enjoyed the cherry sponge with its balance of sweet and tart.

We ended the evening with a double espresso and a glass of homemade limencello.

Despite this being a big meal I didn't feel overly full, which is testament to the chef's ability to serve food that retains the natural essence of the ingredients and is flavourful yet at the same time the finished dish is light. It is now one of my top choices for creative and authentic Italian food made from the heart.

Wine, Service, Ambiance, Cost

The restaurant will soon be launching a new wine list, which although not extensive  does feature only Italian wines and all wines can be enjoyed by the glass. The recommendations we had from the current list worked well with the dishes.

The service is efficient and personable as to be expected in a hotel restaurant.

For me part of the ambiance was the presence of Vittorio. I think the guests, especially regulars, enjoyed the personal touch of the chef coming to see how everything was, and the table next to us had also left their choices in his capable hands. I overheard the Italian diner say to his non-Italian guests, “Vittorio will take care of us”. The view of the harbour is also a plus in the ambiance stakes, yet I would like to see the tables along the window turned the other way so all diners at the table get to enjoy the scenic view.

I can highly recommend the personalised menu experience, which is available on request with the price depending on the number of courses and ingredients used.

A new a la carte menu is on the drawing board but current signatures include Crisp Oyster with Chickpea Flour on Tuna Tartar, Cucumber Salad and Flat Sardinian Bread; Homemade Scialatielli with Veraci Clams, Zucchini and Basil; Paccheri with Veal Onion Ragu; Maine Scallops with Cauliflower Puree, Endive and Hazelnut Vinaigrette; and Rolled Beef Ribeye with Pinenuts, Raisins and Celery Root Cake with an Oregano Tomato Sauce.

All images used are from the a la carte menu. Prices for antipasti and pasta range from $160-$250, while mains range from $288-$420. There is also a menu of grilled items and a good number of vegetarian options.

Angelini
Mezzanine Level
Kowloon Shangri-La
64 Mody Rd,
East TST
2733 8750