Value-for-money and two-star Michelin dining are not normally found in the same place. Also often at opposite ends of the dining experience is value-for-money and fine dining. To find them together is a treat, and is exactly what we found at Amber's Weekend Wine Lunch. 

Many things impressed me: the most obvious, the food; culinary director, Richard Ekkebus, is one of Hong Kong's best kitchen maestros and the dishes clearly demonstrated his talents. Shortcuts had not been taken, standards had not dropped. The experience itself - everything was done to the highest level as it would be at any time. A satisfying taster providing a glimpse of what can be, the wine lunch entices and captivates - I want more. 

Culinary Creations

The Weekend Wine Lunch comprises six courses (three savoury, three sweet, optional cheese course) and begins with three amuse bouche. They were all playful, with unexpected twists or surprises, including the signature foie gras raspberry and beetroot 'lollipops', which are sinfully good. 

I have nothing but praise for the savoury courses so will keep my comments brief. The meal began with Duck Foie Gras - with spiced mas amiel and poached pear and shaved crispy ginger bread, and Mackerel 'Saba' - cured and marinated in white wine and pickled vegetables, confit lemon and chives yoghurt tartine. Like all that followed the plating of these starters was beautiful, immaculate, attention to detail; dishes that were so visually appealing it almost seemed a shame to eat them. For the foie, I enjoyed the clever balance of ducky unctuousness contrasted by the refreshing spiced wine and pear...so good, so light, that the toasted brioche seemed unnecessary. The delicate mackerel were given an ethereal quality resting on a bed of white wine jelly, my dining companion lingering over every one, enjoying the enhanced texture, delaying the end of the dish for as long as he could. 

Brown Morels - stuffed with corn-fed chicken, simmered in yellow wine, parmesan creamed spaghetti; and Green Asparagus - served warm with veal bone marrow, iberico de belotta ham 'tartine', wagyu beef jus, were our engaging middle courses. In the first dish the morel was the star of the show delivering a pungent kick that was heightened by the incredible morel emulsion that was added table side - a sauce so good that it makes you instantly want to marry the maker - anyone who can make something that good... The asparagus was elevated from a mere vegetable bit player to the leading role thanks to the meaty components bringing big bold notes to the dish, with a certain earthiness from rounds of truffle. My dining companion sighed in gustatory delight several times when eating his asparagus.

The savoury notes ended with Bresse Guinea Fowl - breast roasted, leg minced with celeriac, black truffle mashed potato and jus 'gras'; and Prime Oxtail - braised in red wine, with foie gras in fresh pasta, mango yoghurt and 'cevenes' onions emulsion. Both dishes further examples of the cleverness of Ekkebus' food, food that demonstrates passion, heart and finesse. On a taste and flavour level food that has such intriguing depth and complementary contrasting components that the taste buds are continually entertained and stimulated until the last mouthful.

As we were not ready to move to dessert we had the Cheese selection, five cheeses as matured by famous affineur Bernard Antony. There are a good variety of premium cow's, goat's and blue cheeses to choose from including Mimolette 18mths, Vacherin (Mont d'Or), Brillat-Savarin, Valencay, and Fourme d'Arbert.

Desserts consisted of: Malaga Wild Strawberries - fragrant green tea ice cream and coconut milk panna cotta; Victoria Pineapple - poached with 'tahitian' vanilla, blank monte with banana and lime sorbet; and Gianduja Chocolate - and hazelnut praline marquise with gianduja sorbet - served in a succession. The strawberries were lovely, sweet and tart, the green tea giving an added zing and refreshing element for the palate. Personally I would have liked to stop here...even when I have a tasting menu two desserts is ample, three for me was too many and out of balance in my mind, the memories of the savoury courses overwhelmed by too many sweet notes. We found the second and third desserts disappointing, nothing wrong with them and they looked as wonderful as all the other dishes, they just didn't match them in terms of engagement. I understand lots of people love dessert and will love a menu that focuses as much on dessert as savoury but for me (and maybe others with a more salty palate) I would have like to have seen an option for a second main with only one dessert. I must add that the petit fours were outstanding, we ate the lot.

Wine Discovery

Award-winning head sommelier, Herve Pennequin, says the wine lunch is more about wine discovery than food and wine pairing in the traditional sense. Working around Ekkebus' menu he looks for wines that may be less obvious choices, but that are still great wines, this is Amber after all. 

With our amuse bouche we had the creamy, playful and rounded Brut Rose NV, Louis Perdrier, Cremant de Bourgogne, France. To accompany starters we had a glass of 2008 Viura, Alvaro Palacious, Roja, Spain, a cheeky wine that was light enough to complement the fish while having enough roundedness to pair well with the foie gras.

My favourite wine of the lunch was next - 2008 Marsanne & Roussanne, Chateau de Mauconseil, Provence, France. A beguiling drop it highlighted the layers of flavour and complexity in the dishes, adding to the experience.

The 2006 Tempranillo, El Marques, Ribera del Duero, Spain, was served with main courses - gutsy yet refined, a wine to linger over, a wine to savour.

With dessert 2001 Chenin Blanc, Pierre Bise, Coteaux du Layon, France.

The wine lunch provides an opportunity to try a variety of boutique wines, with some vintages not normally available in Hong Kong. The wines we tried played just as much of a role in the enjoyment of the lunch as the food itself.

The Logistics

The Weekend Wine Lunch is available each Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays from 12 noon. Each month there is a wine theme, in April the theme is wines from the Mediterranean and in May wines from the south of France. Some changes are made to the menu each month inline with changes to the wines served.

The cost is $698 per person and this includes amuse bouche, starter (choice three), middle course (choice three), main course (choice three), three desserts, coffee/tea and petit fours, plus one glass of wine with each savoury course. The cheese course is an additional $152 per person; dessert wine is an additional $150 per glass. Guests are asked at the end of the main course if they would like the cheese course or proceed directly to desserts.