When you hear the word "bistro", immediately a casual dining experience of heartwarming honest food comes to mind, or does it? So why is the good ol' Bistro still so foreign in Hong Kong? Lo and behold, 798 unit & co., a New York style bistro in both Causeway Bay and Tsim Sha Tsui, will change the way you think about bistros. 798 is bistro food at its highest standard; full of personality and butt-kicking in its class.   

The People, The Soul 

If there were two characteristics a restaurant should have, it would be a distinct personality and consistent quality. 798 unit & co., has both, and its two branches  are intent of becoming the natural choice for casual western dining. The owners have a genuine love for the food and beverage industry and this passion is expressed clearly in the restaurant's ambience and food.  

798 unit & co.'s name was inspired by the 798 art district in Beijing. With similar intentions, the 798 people wanted to build a company that could provide the platform for the expression of its passion for the industry. In fact, "co." symbolises this philosophy, the business is constituted of the unique character of the people who make up the company.

The People's Dining Hall

Tearing away at crusty bread and sipping on cocktails, with good company; hence their slogan: "the People's Dining Hall". To deliver really good food in a place where everyone could eat and drink without needing a special occasion - that's the 798 concept. 

Salad lovers should check out the impeccable selection on the menu. The Endive, Apple, Roquefort & Toasted Walnuts salad is one of those dishes that pushes or stretches the limits of salad. Having a cheeseboard in mind, it's your mix of cheese, fruits and nuts. The sweetness of the fruit and the bitterness of the endive balances out the strong flavours of the cheese. The sliced apple and endive, crisp in your mouth, while the roquefort is subtle and melted into the dressing.  

Another salad worth a mention is the Salad of Smoked Trout, Brie, Mango & Baby Greens. A wild combination indeed.  A nice hot-weather dish, that'll take the heat off.  

Beets & Watermelon, yes, oh yes. Juicy watermelon paired up with beets and goat's cheese in this Small Bites dish, is another provocative mix. Watermelon in a savoury dish is bistro food on a higher level. "There are some dishes on our menu that use less popular ingredients or less familiar flavour combinations, but we retain them because as restaurateurs, we believe that we have a mission to push/stretch dining and taste boundaries as appropriate," says Bridget Chen, a partner of the 798 group.   

For those of you who like your chop, the Chargrilled Thick-Cut Pork Loin Chop (available  in American or Australian pork varieties to suit) will make you do the Macarena. The chop comes to the table juicy and tender, and barely needs a knife to saw into. The chop arrives on the bone with criss-cross char marks and a rim of sizzled fat, plus a big wedge of grilled pineapple on the side. According to Bridget, this bestselling dish reflects the bistro ethos of generosity and simplicity, and probably one of the best - if not the best, pork chop in HK. 

You absolutely must leave room for dessert, for the dessert at 798 is always memorable. The abundant variety caters to every palate. You ought to find something that tickles your fancy. After the 798 Crispy Bread Pudding, you just might become a bread pudding lover. The bread is arranged vertically instead of the usual horizontal stacking. This vertical arrangement creates a half soft, half crisp effect. The middle, wet and doused in crème anglaise, while the tips of the bread remain crisp and toasted. Request it with the Sea Salt Caramel Ice Cream. The salty sets off the sweetness, and makes it way more interesting. Hot and cold, soft and crisp, sweet and salty, the best of all worlds. 

Something to Savour

Running an accessible restaurant isn't difficult, but running one with a unique character is. "Hong Kong's audience is very transient, and many restaurants steer off path after a year or two towards the market's changing tastes. The challenge is finding the balance between catering to what customers desire and staying true to yourself," remarks Bridget. 

798 unit & co. is arguably one of those rare places that is honest and unpretentious. When you put genuine love for the industry and great food together, you get a quality dining experience that is above the rest. 798 unit & co. takes ordinary dishes and makes them extraordinary.