October marks the start of the much anticipated white truffle season, a time in the year when these hideously expensive - and rather hideous looking - mushrooms are shaved in front of diners at the table or otherwise closely guarded by the chefs. Of course they are no ordinary mushrooms. These prized morsels have this intense pungent aroma that nothing else can replicate.

This year the white truffle season started a little later than usual; the first day of sale fell on October 23. Prices have been exorbitantly high because of a relatively hot October. Production has been low but various chefs are hopeful that the price will come down in the coming weeks. However, if there is a sudden change in weather in Alba, Piedmonte, where white truffles grow deep in the soil under trees, the season will be cut short.

White truffles are Italian by nationality but because they are so sought-after, chefs of other cuisines jump on the bandwagon during the season as well. However, they are an expensive investment even for the chefs because they lose 0.7% of its weight naturally every day. Here are some highlights around town this year.

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Chef Umberto Bombana from Otto e Mezzo was named the Worldwide Ambassador of White Truffle in 2006. His fans make reservations way in advance just so that they would not miss the chance to sample chef Bombana's white truffle creation. The chef believes when it comes to these exquisite white truffles, less is more. A blank canvas allows them to showcase their unique aroma. Each dish contains about 8 grams of white truffle, more than most restaurants because the chef knows that's the main attraction of the meal.

Aside from the Tagliolini with White Truffle that appears on the menu every year, Chef Bombana has introduced some new dishes to the white truffle menu. As a starter, the Warm Lobster Salad with Ovoli Mushroom is a light yet complex antipasto.

The lobster meat is wrapped in lardo (cured pork fat) before being seared so that the fat seeps into the meat. The ovolo mushrooms have orange caps and can grow to around 8 inches tall. The larger ones are roasted and the smaller ones are shaved raw. The aroma and taste of these mushrooms are relatively mild and after roasting, they become earthy and sweet. Along with the roast potatoes (with rosemary, garlic and thyme) and a refreshing salad, this dish offers another distinctive way to enjoy white truffle.

For diners who prefer meat, the Tajima Beef Tenderloin with Foie Gras, Spinach, Whipped Potato and White Truffle is a truly decadent treat. The beautifully marbled beef, velvety foie gras and pungent white truffle make this dish rich and irresistible.

It is rare to find white truffle on the dessert menu as it is more commonly known as a savoury ingredient. Therefore the Vanilla Ice-cream with White Truffle from Alba on Rice, Vanilla Foam and Crispy Crumble is a must-try. The rice is first cooked with vanilla and spices before being layered on top of a slab of chocolate cream and crispy crumble. The vanilla ice cream is surrounded by the vanilla foam and the generous shavings of white truffle rest on top of this concoction. The aroma of the white truffle does not get trumped by the vanilla or chocolate but rather, introduce a top note to the dessert.

Cepage

Chef Sebastian Lepinoy from Cepage admits that while black truffles are the ultimate luxury in French cooking, white truffles are less frequently featured, if at all. Unlike an Italian restaurant, diners would not find Chef Lepinoy shaving white truffles at the table. Presentation remains a vital element in his cooking. Dishes are assembled in the kitchen and each contains about 4 grams of white truffle.

The White Truffle Tarte with Quail Egg "Sunny-side-up" looks delightful. A single sheet of paper-thin filo pastry is topped with caramelised young onions. A quail egg is placed in the middle and slivers of white truffle are carefully placed around it so that only the yolk is on display. Droplets of chicken jus can be found around the plate. All the flavours and different textures exploded in my mouth - crispy filo, soft and sweet onion, runny egg, and crunchy white truffle, all harmonised by the concentrated chicken jus. The use of just a single layer of filo pastry and the delectable quail egg makes this decidedly French fine-dining.

Another creation from Chef Sebastian is the Langoustine "Dim Sum" and White Truffle. The filling in the single dumpling consists of only langoustine from New Zealand. The thin layer of pasta insulates the sweet and firm langoustine and the creamy parmigiano sauce brings together the fragrant white truffle and the raviolo. Pink pepper flakes and chives are used to add a splash of colour and flavour, whereas the droplets of orange lobster oil complements the langoustine. An elegant and unassuming dish packed with different textures and a balance of flavours.

Hugo's

The menu at Hugo's, the restaurant famous for the table-side cooking, features a substantial amount of meat dishes and other European delights that tend to be protein-based. Executive sous chef Richard Sawyer goes back to basic in producing three white truffle dishes for the season.

White Onion Risotto with White Truffle, Grana Padano and Olive Oil offers the ideal stage for white truffle to shine. Chef Richard starts the risotto with white truffle butter - that is butter made with the bits and pieces of white truffle. Fresh white truffles are then shaved over the rice before the combination is topped off with a piece of parmesan crisp. The mild and creamy risotto is enhanced by the salty and crispy parmesan. The portion is quite substantial and this dish can be shared as an appetiser.

Eggs and white truffle are soul mates. For the Scrambled Duck Eggs with White Truffle and Sourdough Toast, the chef uses duck eggs, which are richer in flavour and with a darker yolk, and keeps stirring with a whisk to make sure there is no lump in the scrambled eggs. The result is a creamy mixture of eggs and cream that requires no chewing at all. The heat from the eggs makes the aroma from the white truffle travel upwards, infusing the air above the plate with a delectable smell. The thin pieces of sour dough, drizzled with olive oil, balances the richness of the eggs.

The handmade tagliatelle in Fresh Tagliatelle with White Truffle and Sauteed Cepes is made thinner than usual to make the pasta dish less filling. It is simply dressed with olive oil and herb so that it does not fight with the aromatic white truffle being shaved on top. The cepes, or porcini, despite its pungent aroma, becomes earthy after being sautéed and goes very well with the white truffle.

If diners cannot get enough white truffle, it can also be an add-on to other dishes, such as the creamy lobster bisque or the refreshing Caesar salad for $160 per gram. In addition, Hugo's will be launching the game menu this month. Winter is indeed a busy culinary season!

Before you pick up the phone to make that reservation, know that size does matter somewhat with white truffle. The bigger the morsel, the longer it can keep its moisture. Also Chef Bombana tells us most restaurants use truffle oil during the season to enhance the aroma and flavour of the dishes. Although truffle oil is significantly cheaper than actual white truffle, it is a synthetic product that has nothing to do with white truffles at all. Be wise and choose carefully. Buon appetito!