Recently I have been questioning the Hong Kong dining scene, feeling that the standard of food has slipped and many new openings have been serving food that is average at best. Was I just jaded from several years of constant reviewing or was the quality and inspiration waning?

After my recent dinner at award-winning Sepia in Sydney, (in addition to several other standout meals) I am more convinced than ever that Hong Kong restaurants in general need to lift their game.

Martin Benn Arrives

Martin Benn is the creative force behind Sepia Restaurant and Wine Bar, which has been opened for less than a year. In that short time the restaurant has received rave reviews from critics and was awarded a one hat rating (three hats the highest rating) in the 2010 edition of Sydney's noted restaurant guide, The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide.  

Benn, a protégé of Tetsuya Wakuda may be familiar to readers from his days at Aqua. While Aqua was not the right restaurant for his cuisine Sepia is, it shines brightly. 

Joining Benn in the kitchen is the talented Daniel Puskas, formerly of Oscillate Wildly. Puskas was trained by Benn during his time at Tetsuya's.

The menu at Sepia is seafood driven, a result of partnering with Australia's premier seafood supplier George Costi of De Costi Seafoods.

Seafood Journey

For our dining enjoyment we went with the Degustation menu, plus a couple of added items. To begin was an amuse bouche of Slow Poached Quail Egg and Smoked Ocean Trout, Nori with a daishi jelly, an impressive opening. Rich yet light (an element of the cuisine) with an indulgently creamy mouthfeel and pronounced flavours. The sprinkle of salt crystals and micro greens providing textural contrast.

A harmonious link from one dish to the next with the Yellow Fin Tuna Tartare, Avocado Cream, Soy and Wasabi Jelly topped with a micro green that had the bite of mustard; influences from Benn's days with Tetsuya were evident. The idea with this dish was to simultaneously eat a little of all three layers as each of the elements had an increasing flavour intensity, that when combined created an experience that was greater than the sum of its parts.

Creative and Complex

The next dish of Smoked Eel Roll, Potato Mousse, Licorice Powder, Leek Salad had me and my dining companion divided. She really enjoyed the earthiness of this dish, while I found the texture and taste a little strange, too reminiscent of minced beef. The measured use of liquorice powder merged well with the other flavours and did not predominate. We both agreed that this course was a good transition from the proceeding light dishes to the next course of Queensland Spanner Crab and Buckwheat Risotto, Mustard Butter, Shellfish Essence. 

This was a course we had both been looking forward to as the dish sounded unusual and enticing. We were not disappointed. Perfectly cooked, the buckwheat was the ideal vehicle for the sweet spanner crab. The mustard seed butter and the shellfish essence, which tasted of a pure ocean, gave the dish richness and depth. When presented the butter rests in the middle of the dish below the shellfish foam and the idea is to mix everything together so that the butter melts evenly through the dish. The flavours were further complemented and contrasted by the addition of tarragon. While I did find it a tad too salty, I enjoyed the complexity of the dish that was both light and decadent at the same time. My dining partner was impressed commenting that the first taste took her breath away.

Poached Coral Trout, Western Australia Yabbies, Onion Cream, Ocean Trout Roe and Bone Marrow with white asparagus was the next course. This was a dish that could have been a disaster as there was so much going on, but it wasn't, it was sublime. The asparagus provided an important link between flavours and the beetroot-infused roe a sweet contrast to the fish. I loved the roe, which had enlarged from soaking in beetroot juice and had a big POP in the mouth.

This was followed by Grilled South Australia Mulloway with Tarragon and Sea Urchin Butter, Dashi Braised Daikon. Tarragon (and micro greens/herbs) featured in a number of dishes. Benn, clearly a fan of the herb is much like an artist experimenting to see what is possible. It was the magic ingredient in this dish as it masterfully brought out the different flavours on the plate.

Mulloway is a prized fish (its name means ‘the greatest one') with excellent texture, and the slightly browned butter sauce added an unexpected sweetness. I found the flavour of the urchin to be too timid and think that the dish should have been finished with a piece of fresh urchin on top. I wanted that intensity. Maybe the local palate is not used to urchin, while mine is firmly in favour of more of this decadent and recognisable taste after years of living in Hong Kong.

A Modern Approach

It was on to the non-seafood courses with one of the best duck dishes I have eaten, Pan Roasted Aylesbury Duck Breast, Ginger Candy, Olives, Balsamic Cherries served with Orange, Fennel, Liquorice and Ginger Powders. The uber moist and tender duck (perhaps a result of sous vide) was elevated with the zing of the intensely ginger-y ginger jelly and complemented by the olives and cherries. The powders were an inspirational touch that you could enjoy separately with the duck or combine to create your own unique experience. A dish that gives a nod to tradition yet is firmly modern.

Roasted Wagyu Rump, Compressed Watermelon, Ponzu, Baby King Brown Mushrooms with toasted quinoa was the final savoury course. Another dish that acknowledged tradition while spotlighting Benn's modern approach. I have eaten compressed watermelon before and enjoy the change in its texture and intensified taste that results. In this case, when combined with the ponzu and beef it had me thinking in terms of ‘amazing'.

A Sydney Must

Pre Dessert of Yuzu Custard and Fresh Lychee was a refreshing bridge between savoury and sweet, preparing our palate for the mini "Weiss Bar". A dessert inspired by the Australian ice cream, the Weis Bar, which has one side made from fruit (inc those used by Benn) and the other from cream. Benn's gourmet interpretation was top notch with Macadamia Sable, Vanilla Ice Cream, Mango Sorbet, Shaved Frozen Pineapple, Lime ‘Air', Lemon Sherbet and Nasturtium Flowers.

To finish one of the chef's signatures, Elements of Chocolate, Prune and Cocoa Bubbles. This was a complex dessert with many elements: Pedro Ximenez and Prune Puree, and layers of; Tempered Chocolate Discs, Flourless Chocolate Cake, Praline Feuilletine, Chocolate Cream, Praline Cream, plus Cocoa Bubbles. It was an intriguing dessert to eat with masterfully balanced flavours, which ensured it was not too sweet. The cocoa bubbles reminded me of what happens when you blow through a straw in a milkshake. I enjoyed the child-like playfulness that influenced both desserts.

Putting many Hong Kong restaurants to shame with its contemporary, inventive and memorable cuisine, Sepia is a not-to-be-missed dining experience when next in Sydney.

Ambience, Service, Wine, Price

With its dark chocolate tones and wood detailing the restaurant has a warm and sophisticated feel. An inviting space, with a small bar area Sepia has a New York sensibility. The service was excellent, professional yet with personality; the staff added to the overall dining experience.

The restaurant prides itself on its eclectic wine list and unexpected wine pairings, many of which we enjoyed with our meal. All the wines (from around the globe) were explained in detail and each lived up to its promise of being a superb match. My personal favourites were the Tuna with the Dr Loosen ‘Bernkasteler Lay' Kabinett Riesling, and the Duck with the Gaia ‘By Gaia' Agiorgitiko, a wine which had my dining companion exclaiming, "Where have you been all my life"!

Each Saturday night the restaurant presents a unique nine-course tasting menu created by both Benn and Puskas, with dishes paired with the restaurant's finest and most unusual wines.

Information on prices, menus and wine lists, and contact details can be found on the website www.sepiarestaurant.com.au

Images: All images courtesy of Sepia, not all images are of dishes eaten for this review. Benn presents his food on large and unusual white plates, adding to the drama of each dish.They have been edited for this article to focus purely on the food.

Postscript: In the 2011 SMH Good Food Guide Sepia was awarded two hats and Benn was named Chef of the Year.