Vittorio Lucariello, chef de cuisine of Tosca, fairly or not, has some big shoes to fill. This is not because he is heading up one of the premier restaurants in the newly-opened Ritz Carlton Hong Kong - the highest hotel in the world. It is not because he has to work with the challenges of an open kitchen and ensuring 114 diners are fed in a timely manner. It is because Tosca will be seen by many Hong Kong diners as the new Toscana - once the city's favourite Italian restaurant, and Lucariello will therefore be compared to its head chef at the time Umberto Bombana - one of Hong Kong diner's most beloved chefs.  

An Unexpected Wow

Having enjoyed several great meals cooked by Lucariello in the past we left our choices up to him; he created a five-course degustation-style menu from the a la carte menu. First to grace our table was Amberjack Carpaccio, Home Made Tagliolini Salad and Italian Caviar ($238) from the Antipasti selections. Resembling a floral arrangement its visual appeal stimulated the appetite. While the dish provided pleasing textural and flavour contrasts I was expecting to be wowed, instead we felt that the experience of the dish did not match its look.

The wow came with the next dish -  Artisinal Spaghetti with Wild Clams ($220) with garlic and crispy basil, a dish created from elements found in two dishes from the Pasta choices. If I had done the choosing I would not have ordered anything with clams as I find clams underwhelming to say the least, thank the culinary gods that the selection was out of my control. The clams were far superior to anything I ever eaten before and I now know why so many Hong Kong diners love them. Also rating highly on the WOW scale was the pasta, beyond its perfect al dente-ness the texture and taste was extraordinary. Although the dish shines because of the produce props to the kitchen team for the refined execution.

Allowing Ingredients to Shine

Roasted Turbot Fillet, Sautéed Octopus, Fennel and Dill ($380) and Stone Baked Lamb Rack with Pistachio Crust and Jerusalem Artichoke Purée ($360) followed.

Thanks to having been cooked sous vide the octopus almost melted in the mouth and the fish was sublimely cooked and seasoned. The fennel was served both cooked and raw, that when combined with the seafood made for an extremely tasty mouthful.

The first aroma to hit from our other impressive main was black olives, which were scattered around the Australian lamb. The dish was packed with flavour intensity and the meat was perfectly executed.

Both mains reflected the chef's philosophy for the restaurant's southern Italian cuisine - cooking quality produce with heart and producing simple (deceptively) dishes that allow the ingredients to shine through without the need for complicated combinations. This style of cuisine, which for me sums up Italian cuisine, is in the chef's blood, having grown up in Naples.  

Sweet Success

We were presented with three desserts - Baba', Cherry Custard, Pine Nuts Praline and Malaga Gelato; Sicilian Cannoli, Fig Soup, Caramel and Nougat Gelato; and Gianduja Millefoglie and Espresso Cream (all $90).

Our favourite was the Baba, so delicious it was the dessert version of a comforting hug from someone special. Also earning praise was the Millefoglie, so intensely chocolate-y that I ate it with the indulgence of a child trying chocolate for the first time. We paired our trio of sweetness with Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria, (Donna Fugata, Italy, $300 per glass/$900 bottle) a fantastic dessert wine from Sicily.

While comparisons are something we naturally do, perhaps we should do it less. In Australia people compare Sydney to Melbourne, having lived in both cities I feel that this is shortsighted, the cities have more differences than similarities. I think that Lucariello's food should be judged on its own (as should the restaurant) and based on the dishes I ate I would say that this vibrant chef, and the restaurant, will experience sweet success.

Ambience, Service, Wine

Dramatic is the best way to describe Tosca - from the red lit 'cat-walk' entrance, to its high ceilings, glass sculptures and water features, to the view afforded from the 102nd floor, it's all about creating an impression, and it does.

Flawless service that included some quintessential Italian charm and hospitality, diners can expect to be looked after with friendly professionalism.

Two things are impressive about the wine list - all wines, except champagne, are Italian, and all are available by the glass. The staff can easily recommend pairings.

In addition to the a la carte menu there is a series of five-course degustation menus priced at $800, and set lunch starts from $320.

Images: all food images author's own.