I have never been to Argentina and I have little experience with its cuisine. Like many, I know that it has European influences, that its beef is considered world class, and that its wines can be sublime. After my visit to Tango I feel that I know more. Some knowledge came the hard way, and some from the experiences of the Argentinian dynamic duo, currently the heart and soul of the restaurant. 

Opposite Ends

Unsure of which ceviche to begin with we opted for the tasting of three. The standout was the Yellowfin Tuna and Watermelon (citrus dressing) - the two ingredients a heaven-sent combination, and the addition of onion adding a contrasting spicy note. For me the onion in the Salmon and Jalapeno and Avocado (lime and orange dressing) was too strong and overpowered the subtler flavours, but for my dining companion the onion balance was fine. The Shrimp and Roasted Tomatoes (roasted peppers and orange dressing) also had good balance and a lingering sweetness was left on the tongue.

On the opposite end of the healthy scale were our fried empanadas: Traditional Handcut Sirloin, and Goat's Cheese and Sun Dried Tomatoes. We found the beef to be a little dry and a tad too much crust versus filling, the other was mostly melted cheese wrapped in fried dough, which for me is more bar snack than dinner fare. They were served with salsa criolla. From this experience I now know that I prefer baked empanada over fried.

Learning Curve

Chirizo with chimichurri sauce, and Calamari with aioli and lemon, were our choices from the Entradas (starters) section. Despite its simple description, Calamari, is in fact a salad of mixed leaves, tomato, avocado and onion dressed with creamy goodness topped with a whole grilled squid. The rustic dish is large enough to make it a main for those that are not so hungry. It was some of the most tender grilled squid I have eaten thanks to the marination that takes place before cooking. The deftly charred and seasoned cephalopod reduced my companion to a sea of enthusiastic grunts. 

For me the chirizo was a let down, but only because of my preconceived ideas that Argentine chirizo would be the same as Spanish with its paprika spiciness. Turns out it's just your average sausage. This was another of the many learning experiences of the evening. Several weeks later I still can't help but think that a sausage is a strange starter unless you are at a sausage sizzle - an Aussie term for an inexpensive bbq of sausages (in bread) and the favourite at fundraising fetes. 

Cuisine Signature

In order to try as many dishes as possible for this review we ordered two mains, which we found out was too much. Both were cooked over the open BBQ grill, the Parrilla.

Ocean Trout Fillet from Tasmania had a wonderful smokiness and I felt the accompanying salsa lucia to be unnecessary, but my dining companion thought it highlighted the unctuous nature of the fish, while balancing the saltiness. When the dish was presented we were told that the fish had been "cooked unilaterally" so the thicker parts of the fish would be rare. However we found parts that were raw. Other than that it was exquisite. A light, but rich alternative to beef.

Of course we had to try the Argentine beef and we selected the Ribeye 14oz, which led to further discovery about the cuisine. I learnt that the beef from Argentina can be fatty and not in a marbled way, but in a big globules of fat within and around the cut, which was the case with the rib eye. Had we known this we would have asked for the beef to be cooked for a longer time. Our request for somewhere between rare and medium-rare was honoured but because of the fattiness it had not reached a high enough temperature for the fat to cook and melt, which meant that some of the steak was not edible. Parts of it were also too blackened, too much char, and one bite of my steak (it was quite dark where we were seated) resulted in only charcoal and raw fat in my mouth - not pleasant as you can imagine. The beef itself had a bold flavour and the more chewy texture that I associate with grass-fed cattle. The steaks are served with six condiments: salsa criolla, salsa lucia, chimichurri, dijon mustard, grained mustard, and horseradish. 

If we had known more, or if there had been more explanation on the menu, or suggested cooking temperature from the chef, I feel the steak would have been a highlight of the meal - as was the case with a fellow food writer on his visit. Next time I will order a less fatty cut and ask the chef how it should be cooked for maximum enjoyment. 

The sides we had were largely forgettable, except for the tasty Marinated Eggplant Escabeche, the chef's recommendation.

A Dynamic Duo

Bravely we found room for dessert - Leche Flan and Don Pedro (ice cream, whiskey, walnuts). The latter my friend aptly described as a "grownup ice cream sundae". The flan featured the quintessential Argentinean dessert element - dulce de leche - made at Tango the traditional way by caramelising milk. I enjoyed the balance in the dish which kept it from being too sweet. Two superb double espressos made with care completing the meal.

Executive chef, Ignacio Elizondo, and the vibrant manager, Victoria, are both from Buenos Aires, which automatically adds an air of authenticity. As does the obvious passion they have for their country's cuisine and wines. This dynamic duo is half of the reason I would return, the other would be to experience, as far as I can tell, authentic Argentinian food.

Ambience, Service, Wine, Price

The latest restaurant from Dining Concepts, Tango creates a casual steakhouse ambience through the use of bricks, wood and tiles, with the parilla fireplace the key feature. There is a semi-open terrace with views over Wyndham Street. Victoria added to the evening with her enthusiasm, as did chef Ignacio, who happily interacts with diners. The other staff were friendly but could benefit from more knowledge.

The restaurant boasts a strong wine list with the majority of choices from Argentina (by glass & bottle), including Torrontes, often called the country's signature white varietal, and a selection of Malbecs. 

Prices in order of above dishes: $228, $58 each, $68, $138, $248, $338, sides $48-68, all desserts $65. The restaurant serves a two-course set lunch for $98.