When you're onto a good thing stick with it, is one expression that restaurant group Dining Concepts seems to have adopted. The success of its recent openings Bistecca and Blue Smoke Bar-B-Que demonstrates that many diners in Hong Kong love sinking their teeth into meat. So rising like a phoenix in place of Olive at Elements comes Prime Steak House | Wine Bar, the group's sixth restaurant that celebrates food with four legs.

A Flavour Medley

We began our meal with one of the restaurant's signature platters (Seafood, Charcuterie, Cheese; serves 2) we opted for the Charcuterie, consisting of prosciutto, Napoli salami, foie gras terrine and traditional garnishes (toasted bread, pickled vegetables, and a balsamic and mustard reduction). The highlight was the sensational sweet and creamy "terrine", finished with a port gelee and served in its own sealable jar, which we spread on the toast like butter and also enjoyed with a drizzle of the vinegar. Also good were the pickled veg that were the ideal partner for the thick-cut, slightly spicy salami. The Platter is an interesting alternative to a standard appetiser.

The Burrata Mozzarella Cheese, Roasted Beets and 15 Year Old Balsamic Vinegar promised more than it delivered. The cheese was not as flavourful as I have experienced elsewhere, and contained little cream inside. The beets sprinkled heavily with sea salt were OK and the mostly flavourless tomato and basil did not bring anything to the dish. The small amount of balsamic drizzled on the edges of the plate was overwhelmed by the beet and became part of a watery, beetroot-y mess on the plate. My dining companion did enjoy the cheese and the "eccentrically salted bits" of beetroot and would order it again, I thought it had potential but wouldn't give it a second try.

A hit with us both was the Hamachi with Citrus Soy Avocado and Chilli, served in a glass tumbler. The ingredients provided layers of flavour elements that all came together with ease; a clean and light dish, with hints of heat, it refreshed the palate. A dish that would have been at home in a Japanese restaurant. 

Prime Execution

I have little to say about the USDA Prime Rib Eye 14oz steak. It was a large, quality piece of beef, with a suitable amount of fat to give it a certain decadence that was well executed and seasoned perfectly. It was the highlight of the dinner for me, and the best steak, in terms of execution, that I have enjoyed at any of the Dining Concept's meaty restaurants. 

All steaks are served with béarnaise, peppercorn and steakhouse sauces, which I didn't use as the meat was flavourful enough on its own. I did taste them though - the béarnaise had started to separate and tasted oily, the peppercorn sauce was excellent, and the steakhouse sauce tasted commercial, and for us like tomato ketchup with a dash of tabasco or worcestershire sauce.

My dining companion's Veal Jaegar Schnitzel with Crisp Bacon, Mushrooms and Cream we fondly referred to as Schnitzel on Steroids. At least 2cm thick all the way through, the two gigantic pieces of veal had been breadcrumbed (in deference to Hong Kong diners' preference) and topped with the rich sauce. A dish that he was impressed by, especially the moistness of the meat, but did add that next time he would order a steak.  

As there are no accompaniments with the meats we also shared the Tomato Salad with Red Onion and Basil, and sides of Jumbo Asparagus and Lyonnaise Potatoes. I ordered the tomato salad as a test, finding tomatoes with any flavour and personality is difficult in HK and so I thought if the restaurant had based a salad around tomatoes they must be good, they weren't. As flavourless as is the norm, sadly. The asparagus was superb, tender, seasoned and not overcooked. The potatoes tasted as if they were yesterday's leftovers and were a disappointment to the extent I would not order them again.

It's a Steak Place

At this point we were stuffed so we only managed one dessert, New York Cheesecake with Cherry Lemon Sorbet. The sorbet was refreshing but the cheesecake was not as sweet as other NY cheesecakes we had tried before and we thought that some of the biscuit base was slightly burnt.

Meat is the focus of the restaurant and from our experience it is the meat they get right and would be the reason to return, which I would. Post experience the meat remains a vivid taste memory, the hamachi the welcome clean note, while the rest of the dishes have joined the ranks of those that are just okay in the eating and then quickly forgotten.

Ambience, Service, Wine, Price, Brunch

The room has been totally transformed, except for the ceiling tiles, and is now furnished in typical steak house style - exposed brick, timber, leather, low lightning - creating a warm and inviting ambience. The ambience, with the aid of the moody music, had me almost believing that I was in NY.  I do enjoy low level lighting but here it could be turned up just a touch. The leather placemats are too big and have already begun to curl at the edges, a small point, I know. 

The staff are trying hard, at times bordering on silver service attention and just need to a relax a bit more.

The wine bar element is evident from the nineteen wines by the glass, which can also be ordered by the bottle, including the excellent Crianza Bodega, Nekeas, Navarra, Spain, 2006 ($78 glass/bottle $350), which worked with the majority of our dishes, and the Chateau Martillac Loupiac, France, 2004 ($78 per glass) with dessert. In addition there are a good selection of almost 70 wines by bottle only, ranging in price from $350 to $9,990. The downstairs bar area offers happy hour everyday from 5.30-8.30pm. 

Prices for the dishes as in order of described above: $218 (for two), $148, $138, $398, $198, $98, $98, $48, $78.

The restaurant also does a brunch on Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays from 12 noon until 5pm. Priced at $248 for an appetiser buffet of mostly salad items, a choice of three mains, including Select Sirloin "Steak Frites" with Béarnaise Sauce, and buffet dessert. Add $108 for free flow prosecco, red and white wine. 

Images: 1, 2 author's own, all others courtesy of Dining Concepts.