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HOME » Hot Features » New + Noteworthy » New Opening – Megu

New Opening – Megu  

 

Megu is the latest hip and cool Japanese restaurant to open in Hong Kong. Offering modern Japanese cuisine it stands out from the crowd due to its uber fresh sashimi and use of rare or unusual ingredients.

A Sparkling Beginning
Our evening began with a glass of sparkling sake, which I can highly recommend. Tasting like a cross between sparkling apple juice and sake it is easy to drink, perhaps a little too easy, and is a refreshing way to begin a meal.

Circular Sushi Bar

Next on our culinary journey was Yellowtail Carpaccio with Spicy Kanzuri Sauce. With a nod to Nobu this dish consisted of pieces of yellowtail topped with a slice of jalapeno pepper, wasabi and Japanese sea salt crystal. Ground kanzuri and a kanzuri sauce are served on the side. Kanzuri is a Japanese chilli that is left to naturally ferment under snow for a number of years, which intensifies the heat. The manager recommended that we try the fish first before adding the ground kanzuri, which is advisable as this delicious multilayered ingredient adds extra depth, but it also has the power to blow your head off with just the tiniest amount.

We had it without and it was sensational. A circular journey of tastes was experienced by folding the pepper and wasabi inside the fish – the taste of the rich, oily and incredibly fresh yellowtail followed by the hit of the spice and heat and a final taste of the fish balancing it out. The presentation was pretty and the intense spice of the kanzuri in one corner of the plate was charmingly balanced by flower petals in the other corners.

Next we tried the Megu Original Crisp Asparagus, which was a beautifully presented dish, two stalks of rice crumb coated asparagus on bamboo skewers placed into a ceramic block with lemon and fresh roses on either side. The taste however was disappointing, the asparagus was either lacking in flavor or it was delicate in flavor and was overwhelmed by the rice crumbs.

Signature Twists
The next dish however was a winner and is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. My dining companion aptly described the Shrimp in Kanzuri Spicy Cream as a dish that had released its inner umami. It had a delectable taste, yet was weird at the same time, but in a good way. Defined by layered tastes and textures the lightly battered shrimp had soaked up some of the kanzuri sauce adding to the flavor, yet the shrimp had maintained its firmness, texture and taste, with an overall creamy journey for the tastebuds. The serving plate was stunning.

Sweet Kanzuri Shrimp

A must try is the 100% Fresh Emerald “Edamame” Soup, which again was beautifully presented. A pea-green soup with droplets of olive oil on top and served with fresh soybeans and a small, bamboo-wrapped twig of fresh rosemary that resembled a mini broomstick. Under the guidance of the staff we were told to sprinkle the fresh edamame on top and then eat half the soup, followed by swirling the rosemary around in the soup before finishing the remainder. 

The first half of the soup was slightly sweet and delicate while the second half took on a robust and intense flavor after the rosemary swirl. Surprisingly the rosemary did not overpower the edamame flavor, instead enhanced it. Rosemary is such a strong herb that not many ingredients can hold their own, yet the soybeans did. My dining companion wondered about the discovery, did the chef just start dipping herbs in his soup until he discovered this perfect combination?

Respect for Traditions

Dining Lounge

We also shared the King Salmon Grilled in Iron Pan “Chan-Chan”, this peasant-style comfort food comes dramatically served in an iron pan atop a clay oven. Consisting of salmon, cabbage and spring onions in a miso sauce this dish may have humble roots but by using top quality ingredients was restaurant worthy. It is a bold move by a restaurant of this calibre to use cabbage, but hey it was great cabbage!

Still wanting to try more of the uber fresh fish we ordered a selection of sushi, which was excellent, except for the spicy tuna – while the wasabi gave some balance the chilli was too strong for the fish and seemed unnecessary.

The restaurant also has a range of Japanese oysters, which are served with fives sauces, but we went with the manager’s suggestion to eat them as they came.  For me the oysters were too cold to really be able to fully taste the flavor – I sometimes wonder about the necessity of serving already chilled oysters on a bed of ice.

Hon Magro

A must-try is the signature use of fresh wasabi, which is grated at the table on a sharkskin covered board. It is so far removed from the bright, artificially green, prepared wasabi that is normally served and has a heavenly texture and taste.

A Sweet End
Dessert consisted of Matcha Green Tea Crème Brulee and Berry Trio with Sabayon Cream.

The crème brulee is the perfect choice for those looking for a less sweet dessert and my dining companion thought it was an interesting and unique dessert.

The berry trio is a crowd pleaser.

Menu and Wine
Compared to its competitors and even its sister restaurants in New York the menu is small, although classic favourites are represented. The Hong Kong and New York menus feature many of the same dishes.

There is an extensive wine and sake list, plus a tempting selection of signature cocktails. There is a sommelier on hand to offer pairing suggestions. We paired most of the dishes, (except the salmon) with a Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc 2007 from South Africa.

Attention to Detail
From the plates to the flatware to the wine glasses, to the light fixtures, and even to the bathrooms, attention to detail is obvious as is good taste and quality.

The theatre of the presentation or serving of many dishes is a defining element of the restaurant. On the night we went many diners ordered the signature Premium Wagyu Steak “Kagerou Yaki” – Hennessy Flambee Stone Grill – this visually impressive dish is set alight at the table.

Hennessy Flambe Stone Grill

Ambience and Decor
Megu has been designed by Yasumichi Morita, the man responsible for the design of the two New York restaurants and the nearby W Hotel. It features a blend of modern and traditional elements with the use of kimono fabrics, handwoven bamboo and contemporary furnishings.

The staff are professional and friendly and happy to make recommendations. At times though the service was rushed with plates being whipped away too quickly, this distracted from the enjoyment of the artful savouring of presentation and taste.

The night we went house and trance tunes were thumping away in the background and for us was too hectic for 8.30pm on a weeknight. It seemed at odds with the serenity of the environment.

Megu interior

Final Thought
At the end of the meal I was wondering if Megu had an identity crisis, was it serving modern, fusion, or traditional Japanese cuisine? And then I realised it doesn’t matter they are just convenient labels. What Megu does serve is excellent quality food that is quintessentially Japanese in its freshness, taste and presentation.

Extras
Megu means blessing in Japanese.

Fish is flown in daily from Tokyo’s famous Tsukuji market.

The parent company has a string of restaurants in Japan and has built up strong relations with specialist purveyors. In the menu is an impressive map showing the location of these suppliers.

Ladies are in for a treat when they go to the bathroom, with a total hands-free experience!
Megu is located on the roof level of the new Elements complex in Kowloon. Tel 3743 1421

   

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