When I first heard a restaurant named "Above and Beyond", all I could envision was a restaurant with a full panoramic view of the Victoria Harbour, with a strip of shimmering fluorescent lights when night falls. Experiencing the view from the top, I realize there is much to brag about when it comes to Hotel Icon's newest opening. Entering the restaurant, we are greeted by a lounge area where guests linger for a drink or wait for a table. The menu intends on Cantonese cuisine, about the majority of the dishes are based on Cantonese concepts, while the rest borrows ideas from other provinces of China.

The double-boiled soup ($98) changes daily. On the day we were there, it was Conpoy (dried scallops) Soup with Corn. Having been double-boiled for 4 ½ hours, flavours have settled in the amber-colored soup with floating kernels of corn, conpoy, and dried conches. While combining corn and conpoy may be unseemly, the crispness from the corn is kept as well as the sweetness from the conpoy itself.

Steamed Lobster with Egg White and Black Truffles ($238), one of many signatures here at Above and Beyond, comes in individual servings. The lobster tail has a crunchy texture, while exuding a potent dose of ginger flavor. The egg whites that lined the base of this dish are flavoured with chicken stock before steaming until set. The overall flavor of the egg whites was light and slightly under seasoned, yet the texture is soft and velvety.

Wok-fried Crystal King Prawn with Honey-glazed Yunnan Ham ($98) is another signature dish. The shrimp, shelled, deveined and amply scored all over in a distinctive pattern that allows the crustacean itself to open up into the size of a small donut, bears a delightful crunch. The scores on the shrimp are delicate and of great details. The ham roll, however was slightly disappointing. While the bun was soft and steamy when served, the ham was too tough. Yet this dish is just as good even if the shrimp was a standalone item.

Passing the light, we ventured into the deeper of flavours. The Smoked Bresse Pigeon with Oolong Tea Leaves ($128) is a highlight on the menu. The skin is thin and golden, enrobing the juicy meat underneath. A balance between the smoke and the aroma of oolong tea is reached, which accentuated the pigeon's meatiness. <br />

Anyone can attempt a sweet and sour pork, but to make a decent one is harder than talking the talk. The Crispy-fried Sweet and Sour Pork with Red Wine Vinegar at Above & Beyond is based on the concept of the classic dish. A small piece of pineapple was used as a filling to a Kurobota pork roll, followed by a quick dip into a thin batter before deep-fried into golden morsels. The pork was then tossed into a glaze of red-wine vinegar which coats the surface slightly. The meat is served with red-wine poached pears, common in Western cuisines as a dessert. The novel choice of kurobota pork roll with pineapple filling certainly is something new, yet in return it loses the traditional essence of the pork's fatty texture, with bursting juices when one bites into it. However, the lightness of poached pears, combined with the pineapple strengthens the meaty Kurobota, and enhances the depth of flavor of the red-wine sauce.

Steamed Coral Crab with Glutinous Rice (market price) is by far the strongest mains among others. When uncovered, a whiff of wine aroma filled the air. The attractive redness from the crab spread across the steamed glutinous rice. While the crab itself isn't meaty, its coral and fat take its place. Glutinous rice is soaked for a long time, followed by the addition of Chinese wolfberries which contribute a sense of sweetness. The drizzle of Chinese Huadiao wine (aged 10 years) compliments flavour of the crab, whose flavours are entirely absorbed by the glutinous rice. If I were to be picky about this, it would be the rather potent bitter aftertaste from the wine, lingering throughout the dish from crab to rice. Other than that the dish itself is just about the best of the night.

Braised Tofu Skin with Morels and Chinese Mushrooms ($168) consists of fresh tofu skin, neatly piled up with a flavorful mushroom sauce. With its cloyingly rich consistency, the sauce complements the bean flavour from the tofu skins marvelously.

Even though Above & Beyond intends on focusing on true essence of Cantonese cuisine, when it comes to desserts, the restaurant values diversity with elements from all corners of the world. From Chinese desserts such as Sweetened Almond Cream with Egg Whites ($45) and Chilled Mango Pudding ($45) to Western-inspired cakes are in the selections. For more varieties we chose the Above & Beyond Dessert Combination. Served for 2, the dessert platter consisted of 10 small-portioned desserts. Purple Glutinous Rice Pudding with Coconut Milk is a Thai inspiration. Chilled jelly with Wolfberries and Osmanthus is moderately sweet in its golden shimmer. Chilled Mango and Sago Cream with Pomelo is smooth, with sweet mango chunks and crunchy pomelo bits. Baked Custard Pudding with Chestnut puree mirrors the classic from old Cantonese restaurants. Instead of sweetened adzuki bean puree or lotus seed paste, a lightly-sweetened chestnut puree is used. The pudding is eggy and can benefit with a more caramelized top.

Cakes are a play on textures. Peanut Brandy Chocolate Brownie features a smooth peanut mousse on top, while a relatively dry crumbly brownie texture lined the base. Oolong Tea Chocolate Ganache cake with Feuilletine bears the lightest of tea flavor, sandwiching layers of sweet feuilletine crisps within. Ice creams at Above & Beyond are made in-house, the Wolfberry and White Sesame comes in a creamy globe of beige, nutty with a fresh fruitiness from the Wolfberry itself. WuLiangYe Chinese wine and chocolate ice cream is creamier with a strong following of the famed Chinese wine that bears reminder of the perfect pairing of chocolate and rum, with a potent following that lingers on. The view from the restaurant gives you a different perspective of Tsim Sha Tsui and being on the top floor, it does take dining experience to an exciting new level.

While the panoramic view of Above & Beyond is a great asset, the quality of dishes served here is just as wonderful, with well-mannered service that goes with it. The wine list offers a wide selection designed to match with dishes served here. Each wine has its own merit of ratings. Private rooms are also available for larger parties. Reservations are strongly recommended.