Rising like a phoenix from the ashes of Ocean Grill is Bouchon Bistro Francais, an intimate restaurant serving classic French bistro fare. It is the latest opening from Dining Concepts and makes a refreshing addition to the group's portfolio, which is heavily focused around beef.

The restaurant had only opened a week before my dinner and while some dishes are still being tweaked it has the potential to have what is missing in many of the restaurants in SoHo, a soul.

Snails, Frogs and Snake

My friend was thrilled to see two foie gras appetisers: Foie Gras Torchon with Toasted Baguette and Seared Foie Gras with Grapes and Lemon, like many he loves foie. So you can imagine his disappointment when upon ordering we were told that there was no foie gras available. Instead we decided on six (also available as 12) Burgundy Escargots in Herbed Butter, six (also available as 12) Frogs Legs Persillade and just because you don't see rabbit on menus in Hong Kong that often the Rabbit and Leek Terrine with Tarragon Mustard Vinaigrette and Confit Fennel, from the daily specials board.

The tender snails were packed with garlic flavour...which was lovely...unfortunately the herbed butter had a bitter end note that reminded me of cut grass (bruised parsley perhaps) and the butter itself had a faint taste of oxidisation. The frog legs were swimming in garlic and oil and as they came in pairs our order of six turned out to be 12 legs! My friend commented that they tasted like snake, and they did, in that way that people say snake tastes like chicken. With a mild flavour they were more a vehicle for the garlic than the star of the dish.

We loved the rabbit. Rabbit takes some skill to cook, it can quickly become overcooked and tough because it is so lean, so were suitably impressed by the perfectly cooked rabbit. The terrine had a clean flavour that was complemented by the more complex flavours of fennel and mustard, which also provided opposing textural qualities.

While we were eating our appetisers the table next to us were ordering and I overheard one of the diners order the foie gras - he was not told that it was unavailable. We thought let's see what happens and were surprised to see him being served the seared foie gras. I spoke to the lovely manager, Lamia, and she said that there had been a miscommunication, the seared foie gras was available but not the torchon, so of course we had to order it. It was excellent, right up there with some of the best we have tried...what made the dish was the complexity that resulted from the cooked grapes and lemon jus that was almost as rich as the foie. I found it interesting (flavour profile and texture) and enjoyed the fact the dish was about more than just unctuous liver.

Learning Curve

Although I was tempted by the Braised Beef Cheeks "Bourguignon" that takes 48hrs to prepare, I find it hard to resist a dish that has the words "duck" and "confit" in the description so I went for the Confit Mallard Duck Leg with Mustard Sauce. My friend opted for the Boudin Noir with Apple and Onion Confit. And, instead of a cooked accompaniment we picked the Green Leaf Salad with Bouchon Vinaigrette. 

Let's start with the negative, the duck flesh and the sauce were both too salty that when combined meant we were unable to eat much of it. On the positive, the skin was crispy and of so fabulous, it was richer than many a suckling pig or Peking duck I have eaten...I ate a lot of it. And, the flesh was so tender it almost melted off the bone, and had good flavour. We so wanted to eat it, but couldn't. The young French chef, Jerome Billot, regularly checked with diners during the evening so when he came to our table to ask how everything was I mentioned the duck. He said that I was the second diner to mention it that night and he believed he had identified the problem and had already instructed his team for the next duck prep. A second visit will be needed I feel.

Having tried blood sausage a few times now I have come to the conclusion that it is not for me...there can't have been anything wrong with the dish other than it is just not to my taste as my friend enjoyed it so much that what we were unable to finish he took home! For him the sausage was bursting with savoury flavour intensity...I was in agreement about the richness of the dish and the wonderful confit it was served with and the half baked peach, both sweet uplifting partners.

We found the salad to be overdressed and too chilled, and while it may seem picky I don't expect a salad described as "green leaf" to mostly frissee, not quite green enough for me.

Je Ne Sais Quoi

I left the dessert choices up to the chef and he decided on Vanilla Creme Brulee; it was perhaps the best I have tried in Hong Kong - not too sweet and a big serve - although according to Jerome this is the normal size you would get in a bistro in France. Our other dessert was Apple Tarte Tatin with Crème Fraiche, I enjoyed the sweet and sour flavours of the dish.

The French expression "je ne sais quoi" sums up the evening aptly, there was something intangible, indefinable...something about the ambience, the staff, and the food that together made me quickly forget those elements in dishes that I found wanting...instead like now I have vivid memories of all that I did enjoy and feel drawn to go back for more.

If Bouchon can iron out the kinks I see it attracting a regular clientele drawn to that sense of home and comforting cuisine that you want in a French bistro. 

Ambience, Service, Price

The transformation of the small space is impressive...its timber bar and detailing, wrought iron, etched glass, metal ceiling tiles, and art work all helps create the ambience of a French bistro. In this case the design was inspired by traditional Parisian bistros. The small outdoor area at the rear is cute.

All the staff were making an effort and they seemed to enjoy their work. I would like to make special mention of the manager Lamia, who goes the extra mile to ensure customer satisfaction, and the waiter Derek, his enthusiasm and professionalism added to our evening.

Prices in order of above (re first mention of dish): $148, $138, $68, $98, $78, $228, $218, $198, $68, and dessert $58, $68.