A counter with a glass front displays thick cut t-bones, multiple butcher's meat hooks dangle above. To their right large cleavers adorn the wall. To the left an extensive refrigeration system with glass doors contains raw meat of many varieties. Bowls of vegetables add colour to the scene. The staff wear white coats similar to those worn by butchers in Italy. I am not, however, in a butcher's shop, I am in Bistecca, the Italian Steakhouse.

As you have probably gathered the interior design at Bistecca has been inspired by a typical Italian butchers. The unusual decor certainly makes the restaurant standout from other steakhouses. Within weeks of opening it has attracted numerous meat lovers, and the attention of food writers; there were two others chowing down on a steak the night I visited.

A Vegetarian Track

The restaurant's cuisine is based on that of Tuscany, with a sprinkling of other regional dishes. The menu is not extensive, but there is a selection of antipasto, soup, salads, and sides, in addition to the star of the show, the thick-cut steaks. There are also other grilled meat options and a couple of seafood choices to cater to the non-beef eater. Not a place to bring your vegetarian friends as they are sure to be turned off by all the raw flesh on display.

To balance our meal we chose the vegetarian starter of Grilled Mozzarella and Marinated Tomatoes. Chunks of semi-oozing mozzarella were kept on skewers by thick pieces of homestyle bread, which rested on pieces of fresh tomato. Both the cheese and the bread had taken on a smoky flavour that reminded me of cooking over an open fire when camping, and for that reason I found it comforting to eat. The olive oil, basil and seasoning on the tomatoes was lovely, however the toms themselves were flat, not a lot of flavour. Personally, I find it almost inexcusable for any Italian restaurant to create a fresh tomato dish using second-rate produce. A dish that promised more than it delivered.

Staying on the vegetarian track we also had the Arugula Salad with Shaved Fennel, Hazelnut and Pecorino Cheese. An enjoyable salad that had been expertly dressed, all the leaves were nicely coated without it being too much. All the flavours worked well together and it was refreshing to eat.

Steak Spotlight

From the pasta choices we ordered the Linguine with Clams, Garlic, and White Wine to share. The dish had a wonderful aroma when placed on the table and we were both expecting it to taste as equally appealing. Unfortunately it didn't. The pasta was more Chinese noodles than Italian pasta, and for us overcooked, not the al dente it should have been. Things got worse when we had a clam, they were gritty; still full of sand they were not pleasant to eat. A second mouthful revealed the same result as the first. As the chef was passing we asked him if this was the way it should be - you never know. We told him how we found it and he said he would replace it. I saw him try the dish and then speak to someone in the kitchen so I assume that it did not taste the way it was supposed to taste.

Before he could prepare us another pasta dish the star of our meal was ready so we skipped the pasta course and dove into our Delmonico 24oz Bone-In Rib Eye for two, from the Wagyu selection. We had chosen the Chicago style of cooking, which is charred (over wood fire) on the outside and cooked to your request inside. We were warned that medium rare is served quite rare at the restaurant by the manager, but went ahead anyway. In hindsight I wished we had gone medium as the med-rare was rarer than expected. I suspect that the steak may not have reached a high enough temperature for the fat to properly melt as it was not as tender as wagyu has the potential to be. The meat itself was of excellent quality though and the charring gave the meat dimension with two different tastes and textures.

All steaks are served with a small amount of each of the six sauces: porcini, chianti mustard, spicy tomato, spicy yellow pepper, and Gorgonzola cream. We found them unnecessary as the steak has a flavour that does not need any enhancement or additions. As the steak is served on its own we also ordered two sides: the recommended Crispy Zucchini Fries with Lemon, and the Roast New Potatoes with Pancetta and Rosemary. 

I spoke to two other food writers (not the ones dining on the night) after the meal and they had both enjoyed the zucchini fries. Sadly I don't think ours had been drained properly and were far too oily to enjoy, the addition of fresh lemon only made them soggier. The whole potatoes had been perfectly cooked and the rosemary was evident, yet there was not a hint of pancetta.

New Opening Blues

For dessert we had a platter of three desserts: Bombolini (warm donuts, marscapone, coffee ice cream), Torta Di Ricotta (cheesecake, strawberry sorbet), and Semifreddo Al Gianduja (chocolate-hazelnut frozen mousse, hazelnut brittle). My favourite of the three was the mousse with its cycle of chocolate and hazelnut notes.

Bistecca has not been open for long and is probably still going through some teething issues, which would explain many of the things that were not up to scratch. I am certainly prepared to give the restaurant another try, that char grilling is so good, good enough to become addictive. It already has a number of foodies hooked.

Ambience, Service, Price

As mentioned the restaurant has a unique decor and as a result ambience. The timber furniture, leather chairs, brick detailing, and even the paper place-mats, add to the steak house feel. It can get quiet noisy when it is busy because of the interior. This will either be annoying or will add to the ambience, depending on the diner.

On the whole the service is good and the staff are well versed in the menu. The executive chef, Chris Mark, spends his time front-of-house, making him accessible to diners.

Prices for antipasto are $98-158, salads $78-108, pasta $158-178, sides $48. The Australian wagyu ranges in price from $488 (for one) to $898 for the 32oz porterhouse, which feeds 2-3 people. The USDA steaks range in price from $278-348, while other grilled mains range in price from $158 to $298. Desserts are $70-80 each.

There is a decent wine list featuring wines from across Italy and the New World, offering something for everyone, from easy drinking Pinot Grigio to the Super Tuscans. There is an interesting selection of Italian after-dinner drinks.

Unique Feature

Extending the butcher theme, Bistecca also sells its raw meat for take away. The restaurant will also age steaks to customer's specifications.