Chinese New Year is marked by gathering with family and friends for gastronomic indulgences, but not just any delicious dish will do. Dishes are often chosen for their symbolic meanings that results from the language itself, for example the word for 'fish' also sounds like the word for 'wish' and 'abundance'.

To learn more I spoke to three of Hong Kong's leading Chinese chefs, all with Michelin stars. They tell me which Chinese New Year dishes mean the most to them and discuss the symbolism that makes CNY a unique culinary time. 

Which Chinese New Year dish that you eat at home has the fondest memories for you and why? 

Chan Yan Tan (CYT), executive Chinese chef, Lung King Heen

New Year Dumplings, Jin Deui (fried glutinous rice balls coated with sesame) and Chinese New Year Pudding, because my whole family, including my mum and sisters, made these Chinese New Year foods when I was small. We used to squeeze into the kitchen and use all of the cooking equipment, so it was really crowded but we always got a very warm feeling from it. As soon as my mother would take the dumplings and Jin Deui out of the wok, my brother and I would immediately steal them even though they were really, really hot! 

Tsang Chui King (TCK), executive Chinese chef, Ming Court

I remember when I was young, my mother used to make a savoury glutinous dumplings (together with fish, dried prawn, Chinese vegetables in soup).  Every time these dumplings were being made I knew that my favourite festival was coming. In addition to the food, I love the other CNY traditions of wearing new clothes, receiving red packets and greeting parents and wishing them a healthy and happy new year, and being together with family.

Shum Sam (SS), executive head chef - Chinese cuisine, aqua restaurant group

My favourite dish is Chinese Rice Cake/Chinese Sweet Cake also called CNY pudding (Nian Gao). Nian Gao comes in many forms and can be cooked in a number of different ways. For example, Shanghai style is white in colour and can be fried as a savoury dish, the red one is the sweet one and is a good dessert for CNY. 

Which three dishes do you most associate with CNY and why? 

CYT: Three traditional dishes that remind me of lots of childhood memories. CNY dinner wouldn't be complete without these: Steamed Whole Chicken as it represents happiness and marriage, family together; Lettuce with Dried Oyster, Sea Moss and Mushroom with Oyster Sauce, which represents fortune and wealth; and Carp Fish Casserole as it represents good wishes and abundance. 

TCK: Steamed chicken, this is one of the essential food items (a must eat item!) when it comes to festive celebrations. Dried oysters with sea moss as in Chinese the meaning of this dish is to wish you a wealthy and prosperous year, and earn more money in the upcoming year. And, deep-fried sweetened dumplings, which are served as snacks at home and offered to guests when visiting. 

SS: Nian Gao for its versatility and ability to offer different flavours.  A whole fish, fish in Chinese is pronounced as ‘Yu' which sounds like the Chinese words for ‘wish' and ‘abundance'. Most importantly, the fish is served whole which means a good beginning and ending for the coming year. And, sesame seed balls, often filled with red bean paste/custard. During CNY, the Chinese associate sesame seed balls with money rolling into your home.

Tell me more about the CNY dishes you will be serving at the restaurant and why have you selected these? 

CYT (Lung King Heen): I hope my guests will have a very happy new year and I want to wish them all the best, so I have chosen dishes like Sauteed Lobster with Fresh Lily Bulbs and Capsicum, as lobster sounds like laughing in Cantonese, and therefore symbolises happiness. Or Braised Seasonal Vegetables with Yu Fungus and Mushrooms to symbolise good luck and wishes coming true. 

TCK (Ming Court): I will be serving traditional CNY dishes that have the meaning of 'happiness', 'wealth', and 'longevity'. Traditional dim sum also to be served during CNY including steamed pork dumpling with sea moss, dried oyster and pig's tongue, braised pig's knuckles with sea moss, and steamed turnip cakes with preserved meat. I also recommend the Double Boiled Spare-Rib Soup with Lotus Root, Sea Moss and Dried Oyster, and Braised Sliced Abalone, Fish Maw, Sea Moss and Black Mushroom served in a casserole pot.

SS (Hutong) On the second day of CNY we will feature a special menu featuring signature dishes, new dishes and dishes with a twist that have lucky names, which are ideal for CNY. A new dish, Pumpkin & Winter Melon Balls with Conpoy contains the meaning of 'money and jewellery' which everyone wants. A dish with a twist is Beef Tenderloin fried with Garlic Flakes and its chinese name is means 'one thousand note'. 

How important for you is the symbolism behind the CNY dishes? 

CYT: It's very important, all the foods at CNY are consumed to usher in wealth, happiness, and good fortune, meaning that they will bring everyone a lucky new year. 

TCK: For me the symbolism behind the CNY dishes is important, it is part of tradition and I  believe it is essential to serve dishes that are part of the traditional approach. CNY traditions are a great way to have a new start to the year, and I sincerely wish peace and happiness for everyone.

SS: As a chef, the taste, colour and presentation of dishes is my first priority, but the name of the dish also makes people happy if is linked to luck, wealth or prosperity. 

On a personal level, which CNY dishes do you enjoy more for the taste than the symbolic meaning?   

CYT: Most of the dishes I prepare and eat during CNY period are related to a good meaning, and I like all the CNY food. I personally like Chinese New Year Pudding, especially the sweet one. When I was small, my mother told me I will become much taller than the year before if I ate them, I believed this myth for more than 10 years. 

TCK: One of my favourites, is one that I am serving at the restaurant, braised sliced abalone, fish maw, sea moss and black mushroom served in a casserole pot.  This dish includes delicate and luxurious ingredients and offers a superb flavour.

SS: I enjoy all kinds of CNY food as long as they taste good!  The symbolic meaning is like a ‘value added' to the food I enjoy.  

Other than cooking how will you be spending CNY? 

CYT: We'll have family gatherings and I'll give red packets to the children I know. I always enjoy sharing my happiness with family and friends. 

TCK: On the eve of CNY, I will have a late dinner feast with family after work. The rest of the time will see me busy at the restaurant. 

SS: CNY is a time for family and friends to get together and a time for kids to get some red packets from their relatives and seniors. So, I take my family to visit my relatives and friends and spend good times with them. I also cook at home to entertain my beloved guests. 

Recipe

"Wunan Style" Cod tossed with Crispy Fermented Bean and Chilli - courtesy of Hutong

Ingredients

cod fillet (400g)

minced fermented bean (50g)

crispy garlic (10g)

dried chilli (8-10g)

Seasonings

salt (1/2 teaspoon)

pepper (1/2 teaspoon)

Marinade

Shaoxing wine (2 teaspoon)

dash of ginger juice

Method

Mix cod fillet with salt, pepper, ginger juice and Shaoxing wine. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. After marinating put cod into steamer to steam 8-10 minutes, remove. Heat up wok and bring oil to a boil, deep-fry fermented bean in oil until golden brown. Drain. Heat up wok, add deep-fried fermented bean, crispy garlic and dried chilli stir well. Pour on top of cod fillet. Serve.  

Images

Food images are either signature dishes or CNY dishes. Lung King Heen: 1,4, 7; Ming Court: 2, 5, 8; Hutong: 3, 6, homepage.