Before opening Al Molo, Michael White was virtually unknown in Hong Kong but he is one of the most sought-after chefs in New York. One of his restaurants in New York, Marea, won the James Beard Foundation New Restaurant Award in 2010. He was also nominated for the Best Chef category in 2011. While diners in New York flock to his restaurants, how many people in Hong Kong have heard of the James Beard Award, let alone care about what it is? Not many. Now that White has opened Al Molo, we should. 

WOM reveals what inspires the New York-based chef when it comes to creating dishes, and how he is going to take over the world, one strand of spaghetti at a time. 

White is not Italian by heritage (he is of Norwegian descent) but he is as Italian as can be without being Italian. The Wisconsin-raised chef dabbled in French and other Asian cuisines at culinary school before choosing to pursue the Italian route. Although he claims that his heart and stomach led him to this particular cuisine, it certainly didn’t hurt that he had met his wife in Italy. He spent a good number of years training under Chef Valentino Marcattilli at the well-respected San Domenico in Imola, in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, and did a few stints in France during his time in Europe. 

The soulfulness, the flavours and the ingredients are the reasons he loves Italian cuisine. However, he is decidedly French when it comes to technique of cooking. That explains his approach in creating his pasta dishes. Being hailed the king of pasta, White’s dishes have created a lasting impression on diners who have tasted them. An example is the signature dish at Marea, fusilli with red-wine braised octopus and bone marrow, which everyone raves about. The seemingly simple dish, made with the freshest ingredients, is the result of hours of preparation and a thorough understanding of each ingredient on a molecular level. Each step forms the basis of the next, and there is no margin of error.  

Inspired by ingredients, White constructs recipes based on seasonality, and he uses what is fresh and at its peak season. His team at Al Molo balances the use of imported ingredients with local produce. White is also inspired by the streets of New York and all the travelling he does. This combination gives birth to a style of Italian cooking that is sexy and has an urban beat to it. 

When asked which is his favourite dish from his own restaurants, White compared the question to asking a parent to pick the favourite child. It is impossible to do so. Each outlet has its signature dishes that have been determined by the tastes and likes of the customers. The location also helps decide the type of Italian cuisine that it serves – Northern Italian would fit well with an elegant neighbourhood, whereas the rustic cuisine of Southern Italy is more suitable for an off-the-beaten path eatery. Then White injects that uniqueness into the food. 

Case in point, there is one typical Italian dish at Al Molo that really stands out and it is the osso buco. Gone is the bone (or hole) that gives the dish its name and the gremolata that is usually sprinkled on top is discreetly incorporated on the inside of the meat. White and his team found out after visiting many Italian restaurants in Hong Kong that this Milanese classic is a favourite dish in town. Instead of doing it the traditional way, they came up with a way to give Hong Kong diners something that they know and love, in a way they have never had before. All the components of a traditional osso buco are there except the bone. 

White is here to bring Hong Kong something different. He believes in getting to know and understanding his customers’ likes and dislikes, and keeping in mind their palate when creating menus. However, he urges patrons to try something new; it is impossible to dislike something you have never tried. He is right. With Hong Kong as his debut in Asia, White has made his first step in converting Atkins diet fans here into carb-lovers with his freshly made pasta. His next step? Share his food with the rest of the world, and it is obvious that the world will welcome him with open arms and a yearning appetite.