In part 2 the Mandarin Oriental's new executive chef Uwe Opocensky discusses his plans for achieving a Michelin star, his view on the world's best chefs, and shares a recipe especially created for WOM.

You are overseeing all of the Mandarin Oriental's food outlets, how do you ensure consistency?
I am looking after all the kitchens apart from Pierre, which looks after itself. We work together on a lot of things but they are in control. It’s a very good working relationship.

For the rest you have to be very organised, each kitchen has clear (printed) instructions for each dish and step, and this ensures that everything is done properly. For example when blanching vegetables the kitchen staff know the exact amount of salt that is added to each litre of water.

It is also about trusting my staff, and trying the food in each kitchen on a daily basis to ensure it is right.

Tell me more about your plans for achieving a Michelin star while at the Mandarin.
I think it is every chef's dream to get a star and it has been a dream of mine for a long time.

It is exciting and nerve-racking at the same time but with the Mandarin's support and my team I believe we have a realistic chance. The key is to ensure consistency, you don't know when the reviewers are coming and to stay focused and grounded.

I think getting the stars will also be good for the Hong Kong market as it will get restaurants to step up to the challenge. Hong Kong is always mentioned in the same sentence as New York, London and Tokyo and I think it is time that the restaurants in Hong Kong and Asia were recognised. It is very good that it is happening.

How much of your day is spent cooking?
Around 70 per cent. I do paperwork in the morning, am in the kitchen at the Cafe or Man Wah at lunch, followed by some meetings, then in the evening I am either cooking in The Krug Room or the Grill.

I have an excellent F&B manager who helps me a lot with the paperwork allowing me to do what I am meant to do. One reason that I wanted to join the Mandarin is because the GM wants me in the kitchen.

What can the Mandarin Oriental's loyal diners expect now that you are at the helm?
The return of old classics and introduction of new signature dishes, which will all be creative and will consistently meet or exceed expectations.

What do you think of celebrity chefs, do you want to become one?
I think that celebrity chef is just a journalists’ term. It is all about business, some chefs want to explore that, and some don't. I want to be recognised for my food. I am also not sure that you can be both a good restaurateur and a successful TV chef.

I think it is about balance, being recognised for your food or being a celebrity does pull in the crowds but if you get too big you can't continue to be a chef.

I understand why chefs go down that road as TV, cookbooks, merchandising etcetera is where the big money is as a chef. I am happier to be hands-on. It would be nice to get a star but I don’t want to be known as a celebrity chef.

What are your goals as a chef?
To be awarded at least one Michelin star and for people to recognise my food and find it interesting. And, to have returning customers.

I want to stay happy and keep on creating, cooking and enjoying life like I am now.

I also want to stay grounded, which I think is very important.

In your opinion, who are the world's best chefs?
Definitely Ferran, he is on a different planet to any other chef.

Andoni Luis Aduriz, he is also a genius with food.
 
Kevin Cherkas who I worked with at El Bulli is an excellent chef.

And, Tom Kitchin has the potential to become the best. He now has his own Michelin-star restaurant, “Kitchin” (in Scotland) and is the youngest Scottish chef to receive this honour. He has also worked for some big names, such as Pierre Koffmann, Guy Savoy and Alain Ducasse.

All these chefs are different in their own right regarding the cuisine they create and all of them like to share information and ideas. They are also all good people.

If you could have dinner with any four people who would they be?
The four chefs I have just mentioned because I have the greatest respect for them. It would be very good fun and lots of great ideas would be shared.

Do you cook at home?
Very little. I don't like to cook at home as I cook all day for work. I like to be on the other side and just enjoy. On my one day off I also like to go out.

We have a domestic helper from the Philippines and I have been teaching her a few things and at the same time learning more about her country’s cuisine.

What is your favourite comfort food?
My mum's cooking, especially her steamed dumplings. She serves them with a wild mushroom sauce and whole roasted duck. They are out of this world. My parents are coming to visit in November and I have already put in a request for her steamed dumplings. She won't give me the recipe.

She is very talented and enjoys cooking. I once took some Michelin-star chefs home for mum's cooking and they all loved her food.

What is your advice for people considering a career as a chef?
It takes lots of sacrifice and hard work and success doesn't come easy. It means unsociable hours and will never be an eight-hour day. It can be frustrating and tiring, but if you have a passion for food it is the best job in the world.

It is also important to pick where you work carefully. It is vital to get a grounding in the basics from the best, all food is based on classic cooking. If you are a 20-year-old chef and you go to work for someone like Ferran and then try to learn the basics it will be very difficult, and there is only one Ferran.

by Vicki Williams
vicki@womguide.com

Uwe’ Recipe
Squid-ink gnocchi with two sauces and liquid mozzarella balls  - “I have given this gnocchi dish my own twist and it can be easily made at home.”

Gnocchi
600g potato
110g plain flour
25g squid ink*
30g Parmesan cheese – finely grated
salt, pepper

Boil the potato in salt brine (30%) until very soft
Pass the potato through a potato masher
Mix with plain flour, squid ink and cheese
Mix well and season, then knead for 10mins
Cut into small pieces (approx. 5g) and shape with fork
To cook – Gentle drop each gnocchi into boiling salted water and cook until they rise to the top of the water (doesn't take long), and drain.

Tomato Sauce
150g carrots – chopped
150g celery – chopped
150g onions – chopped
50g shallots – chopped
100g garlic – chopped
2kg fresh Italian plum tomatoes – cut in quarters
1kg crushed tin tomatoes
50g olive oil
salt, pepper, sugar

Heat oil in pot to medium
Turn to low and fry garlic and shallots – saute until a good aroma but no colour
Put in onion, carrot and celery, stir until carrot is soft
Put in fresh and tin tomato and turn heat to medium
Boil until fresh tomato is very soft
Pass through a potato masher
Season with salt, pepper and sugar, and thicken with some xantana*

Pesto
250g fresh basil
60g Parmesan cheese – grated
30g Pine nuts
90ml extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic
salt, pepper

Blend all ingredients together


Liquid Mozzarella Balls
Alginato Solution
1 litre water
5g Algin*
Mix together

Liquid Mozzarella
400g buffalo mozzarella
370ml milk
6g Gluco*
8g Xantana*
Mix together

In a measuring spoon pour a small amount of alginato solution to form a bowl and gently place the liquid mozzarella in the middle with a liquid dropper. Let them rest for 2 minutes to set. The balls can be made in advance and stored in the fridge in water or mozzarella water for two days.

To serve – place gnocchi on bed of tomato sauce, add drops of pesto onto the sauce and add the mozzarella balls – see picture.

*Can be bought on the Internet

Serves 4