Corporate chef sommelier for the Groupe Alain Ducasse, Gerard Margeon, manages the careers of 43 sommeliers and oversees the wine selection for 26 restaurants and five auberges in 10 countries. He has been a sommelier since 1977 and has worked for Ducasse for 14 years.

Thomas Scheidt has been with the Groupe for eight years and is currently chief sommelier at Spoon in Hong Kong. He manages the restaurant’s wine cellar, which was recently given an Award for Excellence by “Wine Spectator” magazine. This is the second consecutive year the restaurant has won the award for excellence in a restaurant wine list.

I caught up with these two wine experts to discuss the award and global wine trends.

Why do you think Spoon in Hong Kong was the recipient of the Wine Spectator award?
TS – The wine list is well balanced with a wide variety of fantastic wines and range of prices. We have the big names, which is vital, and we also have the best offerings from boutique wineries.

We have 450 wines and almost 5,000 bottles in stock, including New World, European, French and Grand Cru wines and Champagnes.

GM – Spoon in Hong Kong was one of five Groupe Alain Ducasse restaurants to receive an award from Wine Spectator. It is good to have received the award but for us it is not a surprise. We have developed strong relationships with suppliers and have carefully selected excellent wines.

What can diners at Spoon expect from the wine list?
TS - The chance to discover something new, and also to further their wine education. I try to help them to educate their palate, but it is important to remain humble as a sommelier and never be arrogant.

How often do you do wine tasting?
GM – Wine tasting is like a sport, you have to train everyday to be at the peak of your performance. To ensure that your palate remains highly developed you need to do daily tasting.

TS – I agree. But it is important to remember that wine tasting is very different to wine drinking. Tasting is done to maintain a sensitive palate and to understand more about the wine. Tasting every day also helps to keep an open mind about wine.

It is important also to stay healthy and in a good mood, illness and a bad mood will change the taste of the wine.

What are the current global wine trends?
GM - There are no real global trends. Instead there is a global evolution of clientèle-driven wines. For example, currently many wine drinkers don't want wines that have a high acidity or that are bitter. This is because palates have been affected by the large amounts of sugar in the diet. Commercial wine makers have had to change their wines in order to meet changing consumer demands. Of course, the top wine makers won't change their style, they remain true to their own style. Climate change is also having an impact on wine makers and the resulting wines.

TS – There are also a lot more intense and powerful wines on the market, that are wonderful when drunk on their own but are difficult to pair with food as the current food trend is for more refined and elegant cuisine.

Also, wine makers are tending to make less wine but of better quality and I regularly find that with big name wine producers the wines in the lower price range are better than the high end.

Do you believe that people of different cuisine cultures have different palates?
TS – Yes, definitely. But I also think it is true that just as the food develops and evolves so does the palate. I have a very German palate, which meant a leaning towards sweeter wines in the 1970's but now I prefer bone-dry wines with a lot of personality.

Cantonese prefer full-bodied, structured wines that are smoky or oaky with soft tannins.

People from the New World wine producing countries are different again, which is shown in the wines that are produced in these countries and are very different to the wines produced in Europe. Reflecting the differences in the countries’ cuisine.

I do consider nationality when recommending a wine as well as standard criteria, such as the food they have chosen.

What are the criteria when selecting wine for the Groupe?
GM – The Groupe has a leaning toward French wines but the percentage will vary depending on the restaurant's location in order to meet the demands of the local clientèle. For example in Paris 70% of wines are from outside France. In Hong Kong 65% of all wines are French. Each wine list reflects the international cuisine served, yet each restaurant has a tailor-made wine list.

Gerard, how do you ensure all the sommeliers under your charge are providing consistent service?
I have had the advantage of creating the team from scratch. All the chief sommeliers have worked with me and understand my philosophy. I provide all the sommeliers with a clear message and vision and take cultural influences into consideration when building the right team for each restaurant.

What is your philosophy?
It is the same as Alain's. Respect. Respect for the food, the wine, the process, and the land.  The product is king and should be respected. All the wines chosen are chosen with respect.

Which do you think provides the diner with a better experience, wine by the glass with each course or a bottle for several courses?
TS – I think they provide different experiences. The point is to match the wine with the food. It is our business to sell wine by the bottle and we don't have a major focus on wines by the glass.

The wines we have by the glass are more a bonus than a focus, however I have recently introduced a new wine by the glass concept. There will be three white and three reds - one will be a from a Jeroboam, another a connoisseur's wine and the third from a big name producer. The wines will be changed every two or three months inline with the seasons.

Most of the time we look for the most representative grape varieties in each country and also grapes that are lesser known in Hong Kong. I feel this gives our guests a good selection. Our philosophy is quality not quantity.

We also do special promotions and currently have 10 different Grand Cru and Premier Cru Magnum wines by the glass. From now on, we plan to always carry double magnums for these exclusive wines by the glass. We are the only restaurant in Asia to offer this.

Do you have a favourite wine?
GM – No, as long as it is well made. All grapes have something to offer. Also different wines are better in different seasons or times of the day.

TS – For me a wine has to have personality, but I don't have a favourite. Wines with personality (for me) are wines that are racy with minerals. These wines have a good integration between the oak and the fruit... unique flavoured wines that your palate never tires of even after a few glasses.

by Vicki Williams
vicki@womguide.com