Award-winning chef Rainer Becker is the man behind Japanese restaurants Zuma and Roka. He has a deep-rooted love of Japanese cuisine, which began when he was challenged with the task of presenting fine dining at Japan’s exclusive luxury hotel, the Park Hyatt in Tokyo.

In 2002, Rainer launched Zuma in London, which instantly became one of London’s most renowned restaurants, and in July 2004, Rainer brought his robatayaki cuisine to Roka in London to similar acclaim. 

Zuma hit Hong Kong just recently and Roka Macau has just opened in The Venetian. WOM caught up for a chat with Rainer, who plans to open three more restaurants in the next year.

What made you want to become a chef?
My interest in cooking and becoming a chef grew from watching my mother cook in the kitchen. I remember as a child sneaking around tasting and picking at bits of food she was cooking. Whenever I smelled something good, I would go into the kitchen and ask what was being cooked. My curiosity and interest in food grew from there.

Where did you receive formal training?
My formal training was in Germany, working for some of Germany’s top modern French restaurants including the Michelin-star Goethehaus in Bensberg and Koenigsh in Munich.

How much of your time is spent cooking?
At present, I don’t have much time, because we are expanding and much of my time is spent working on new projects, including Zuma in Istanbul and Dubai, and Roka in Macau and Scottsdale.

When I am in London I try to be in the kitchen twice a week. 

How often will you be in Hong Kong and will you be cooking during those visits?
Overall, the Zuma Hong Kong opening was a great success and Dan Segall, the Executive Chef, is doing well overseeing things. With my current project commitments I am hoping to visit Hong Kong on average once a month and of course I will spend time in the kitchen.

What do you think of the dining scene in Hong Kong?
Hong Kong has some fantastic restaurants, however, I think there is potential to have more great restaurants catering to the high standards and expectations of Hong Kong diners.

What is the Zuma Style and what makes Zuma stand out from other Japanese restaurants in Hong Kong?
During my six years in Tokyo, I fell in love with Japanese culture and cuisine – the beauty and simplicity in the cuisine, the fascinating techniques, and how the Japanese people approached ingredients they were using with the greatest respect.

My approach is to respect past traditions, whilst not being afraid to change and experiment with flavours. The Zuma style is all about keeping this balance right.

I believe Zuma London and Zuma Hong Kong stand out from the crowd because there is harmony between the design and the food. Our approach to service is casual, but professional, in a setting that is sophisticated and refined.

Do you think you have much competition in Hong Kong?
I see any good restaurant, Japanese or otherwise, that uses quality products, and is passionate about what they are doing as competition.

What do you think of the term “celebrity chef”?
I don’t consider myself to be a celebrity chef and think the term came about really as a result of public interest in, and demand for, food programmes. 

Some dishes that are a hit in London are not popular in Hong Kong, why do you think this is the case?
Compared to London, the Hong Kong market appreciates far richer food flavours. In Zuma Hong Kong two of our most popular dishes are the Chu Toro and O Toro, but in Zuma London this is not the case. However, overall, our top selling dishes in Hong Kong are the same as in London.

What advantages does Zuma Hong Kong have over Zuma London? 
Accessibility to high quality raw ingredients as well as the more unusual items, which are not readily available in the UK market. Working with the best high quality raw ingredients is every chef’s dream!

Another good thing about Zuma Hong Kong is that from the five years of operating in London, we have learned from our mistakes, so Zuma Hong Kong is an evolution rather than a replication. In this sense, Zuma Hong Kong has an advantage over Zuma London.

What inspires you professionally?
Creating and opening successful restaurant concepts.

Which four people (living or dead) would you like to have dinner with?
Salvador Dalí – his work is fascinating, Al Pacino – a genius actor, Al Gore – I admire his commitment to the environment, and Mother Theresa – a selfless woman who thought only of helping the poor and wanted nothing for herself. It would be interesting to meet her and find out about her as a person.

Do you cook at home?
Once in a while, to chill out and relax with friends

What is your favourite comfort food?
Spaghetti Pepperoncini

by Vicki Williams
vicki@womguide.com

Zuma Recipe
Suzuki no Osashimi - Thinly Sliced Seabass with Yuzu, Truffle Oil and Salmon Roe

200-300g Seabass fillet. The fish needs to be as fresh as can be. A fresh fillet is slightly clear in colour.

Dressing
3 mid-sized garlic gloves
30g frozen Yuzu peel
50ml Ponzu sauce
50ml light soy sauce
50ml mild olive oil
Truffle oil - just a hint for flavour
Freshly ground pepper to taste
4 large Shiso leaves

Finely chop the garlic and yuzu, mix with the light soy, ponzu, truffle oil (optional) and olive oil

Garnish
Slices of pan-fried eggplant
Shiso cress

Method
Cut the fillet in very thin slices with a very sharp knife and arrange them around a dining plate.
Place the shiso leaf and eggplant slices in the centre and top with the salmon roe.
Drizzle the dressing around the sea bass fillets and garnish with the cress.