Legendary, three-star Michelin chef, Pierre Gagnaire is known for creating dishes that often defy standard description, and his cuisine elicits words such as emotional, sophisticated, elegant, surprising and original. His signature, attention to detail.

He is considered one of the best chefs in the world by many of those that have eaten at his restaurants, and by many of his peers.

As a celebrity chef with such impressive credentials and industry standing I had expected Gagnaire to be a little aloof, and perhaps with an understandably large ego. Instead I found him to be the opposite, he was charming, warm, open and a pleasure to chat with as he shared his philosophies on food and life.

In reviews and articles writers often use non-specific, almost poetic terms to describe your cuisine, how would you describe it?

It is difficult to describe my cuisine. I try to translate emotions with the food, with the produce – like a mission. I try to create my vision for the produce and to convey this vision to diners.

If you have 10 chefs prepare the same dish, for example a ratatouille, each one will be different as every chef has their own sensibility and the result (the dish) is the interpretation of their sensibility.

The question for me is not describing the cuisine, but was it good or not. My cuisine is to my taste, it is specialised and very personal, and I do take the risk that diners won't like it.

What is your reaction when people don't like your food?

I am disappointed of course. If they don't like it because the dish was not well executed the perfect way that I want than this is a problem. But, if it is the best I can do then it is not a problem.

A memorable restaurant experience is not just the food, it is the waiters, the atmosphere, even down to the glasses, it is everything, it is about giving the diner the maximum pleasure, and all these factors count towards the experience of maximum pleasure.

What are your inspirations when creating dishes?

I am inspired by the process and by methodical planning. I can be inspired by spending time in the kitchen with my staff, or spending time with myself, or with the produce.

It is also important to maintain energy. (author's note: Gagnaire is one of the most energetic, passionately alive chefs I have met, with the energy of chefs half his age).

It is very important also to have time to yourself, I think this vital for everyone, for mental health, for inspiration. If you have no time for yourself you are dead.

And for me with restaurants in different countries it is important to live with the restaurant that I am in. When I am in Hong Kong I am focused on being in Hong Kong.

You have collaborated with the cofounder of molecular gastronomy, Herve This, on a book, and he contributes regularly to your website, how much does the science behind cooking influence your cooking?

It has no influence. Information is important, yes, but for me the science itself is not so important.

It is more important for me to take time, to feel the problems, to feel the sensibility, to feel the emotion, and sometimes you pick up an idea.

At the same time I am very lucky to have a relationship with Herve. He is not my god or guru, he is someone I can talk with and exchange new information with, but it is just information, to use or not. Often his ideas are conceptually very crazy and this is not for me.

It is not a show that we (chefs) do, we give a taste, a sensation, that is either pleasant or not pleasant.

What was the most valuable advice you were given as a young chef?

Take the time to listen. Stay modest and humble. Also don't view the older chefs as your enemy, from them there is much to learn. The memory of everything, is who you become. Even if you are competent at a young age, to be tolerant and patient is not possible when you are young.

It is important to have a mix of the younger and older generations in the kitchen, it is impossible if all are old or all are young.  

Do the Michelin stars add pressure?

Yes, but not on the creative side. I was lucky to get my three stars 14 years ago.

There is a fine line between a three-star restaurant or not three-stars, it is very subjective judging, not objective. Also what is the competency of the person judging my food? 

But honestly, I think that the Michelin system works well and is honest as many people judge the food, not just one person. If the judges have the necessary experience, an expertise in a cuisine, then it is a good system.

The pressure comes because maintaining the stars requires a lot of energy for every diner, day and night. But we love it.

Do you think Hong Kong is ready for a Michelin Guide?

I am not sure that the industry is ready, I don't know.

Judging restaurants in Hong Kong is complicated and I think it will add a lot of pressure to many restaurants. Many of the non-Asian cuisines being served in Hong Kong are not mature so the judges may judge harshly as a result. Also Michelin judge more than the food, they consider the glasses, the napkins, every detail no matter how small matters, to get a star is a team effort.

Of course Michelin is good for the diner, but for the chef/restaurant it is difficult.

Which chefs do you admire?

Thomas Keller. I have known him for a long time. I admire his precision, he does everything right, very professional and very competent. Of course that is how I feel today, he was the first to pop into my head when you asked. There are not so many others that do that.

I also admire Andoni Luis Aduriz, who does superb food at his restaurant Mugaritz, in San Sebastian in Spain.

While these are well-known chefs, I have met many chefs in Tokyo that are not known beyond Japan who are doing very good food and I have had some unbelievable dishes, that I would describe as true. Even a family dinner in Tokyo, eating a dish that has been past down through the generations dating back 200 years, was notable.

What keeps you so passionate as a chef after so many years?

My family. A good spirit and good health - I stay fit by running and playing sports.

I also love the life and people.

When I meet people I am fully focused, aware of the present. I try to pick up what people give you, appreciating the moment and the people.

I also still enjoy the cooking process as much as I always have. There will always be issues or problems, but that's life.