Philippe Etchebest is the two-star chef at the restaurant in Hostellerie de Plaisance, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France. He is a graduate of the hotel school of Talence (Bordeaux), the city where he spent his childhood. He began perfecting his skills in the kitchen of his parent's well-known restaurant, Le Chipiron, in Bordeaux.

He has also worked in some of France's best restaurants including Les Pyrenees, Royal Gray, Clos Longchamps and Les Jardins de l'Opera. He won his first Michelin star in 2001, and in his present position since 2003, has won two stars, winning his second in 2008. He is one of the youngest recipients of the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France.

I was surprised when I first saw Etchebest, he has the imposing look of a rugby player (I later found out that he had played 1^st division rugby and was also a boxing champion). However, when I began to chat with him I realised that he was more a gentle giant. And, his cuisine is similar: surprising, intentional, delicate, and artfully plated.

Your parents operated a successful restaurant, how influential were they in your decision to become a chef and not a professional rugby player?

My father was a chef and I can remember enjoying seeing what he did in the kitchen. I would also do things from about 7, such as peeling potatoes. When I was 14 I had to choose a career direction, and I loved the idea of playing rugby and catering. I ended up being very lucky, because although I decided on hotel and catering school over rugby, which I was passionate about, I did get to play rugby at the same time as I was working in my parent's restaurant for two years.

I didn't want to stay in the family restaurant and so I spoke to Dad and he agreed with me that it would be better for me to work for someone else. So I went to Paris and again luckily the chefs there let me also play rugby on my day off. I discovered boxing when I stopped playing rugby. I continued to box professionally and work as a chef but it became too tiring doing both. But sports are still very important to me as a person; it takes the same discipline as the kitchen.

Now that I am in my 40's I do lighter, quieter exercise, it keeps me balanced, relaxed and healthy, releasing any frustrations. I am not a shouting chef, I don't want to be and there is really no need.

How would you describe your cuisine?

Good! From the heart via my philosophy of respecting the produce. It has a classical French base but I try to modernise it. And while I don't do molecular gastronomy I do use some of the techniques, which I use with my own personality. I do only what I like to do, this is important and I eat what I do.

What is the secret to perfect harmony of a dish?

Texture is very important, using combinations of textures. Flavour, is very, very important and that each dish has a unique flavour. The taste is also very important, it needs to give pleasure and not have uniform layers.

I care that my guests are taken care of and have a pleasurable experience but I don't care what the think of my food one way or the other. Author's note - When I complimented him on his Roast Squab Breast with Dates, Lemon, Celery, Carrot and Squab Bouillon, he almost seemed embarrassed.

A good dish without the right atmosphere is not an enjoyable experience. I believe in gastronomic democracy, not a posh or pretentious restaurant, but a relaxed space. My place is like this, it is not fussy or overdone.

How important are the Michelin stars and do they add a lot of pressure?

They are very important because when I first came to take on my current role, I said that I would get two stars in five years, and I was able to get them in only four years. It is a personal achievement and a team achievement, I am more happy for them (team) than me as they worked very hard, and getting the second star was a reward for them.

In this business there is pressure everyday so the stars make no difference as we need to be perfect every time, whether we have stars or not.

Each year I have a competition with myself to get better, I challenge myself and like with sport it is a good motivation.

What has been your most rewarding moment as a chef?

There are two, winning the MOF and getting the second Michelin star, they both gave me the same sensation.

The first is one that is achieved alone, and needed a sporting mentality, like boxing. The second was a team effort and winning has the same sense of team reward as rugby. These are both ways to have pleasure and happiness but I prefer to share victory, the feeling is more intense and is important to everyone involved.

Name a restaurant that you would like to try but haven't.

The Fat Duck, the cuisine is not my way but I would like to try it. I had lunch at El Bulli seven years ago and was very surprised, it was crazy and incredible.

What are the inspirations that lead to new dishes?

My surroundings, my wife, my son, my dog, my work and the market where I go every morning.

When you have a happy state of mind then you can create.

Who do you consider the three best chefs?

Pierre Gagnaire, because of his freestyle genius and the extremes he achieves with food. The first time I ate at Gagnaire's in Paris I had the degustation menu and I felt so small, even the menu was difficult to understand, let alone how he made the dishes.

Joel Robuchon, he is the opposite to Gagnaire, but he is on the same level as a chef. He has the precision of a Swiss watch.

And, Paul Bocuse, for what he does for the kitchen and because he is the "father" of many notable French chefs of a certain generation. His kitchens are the story of men, of the relations you can have with men, he creates a great team energy, you can feel the exchange of energy, and of his philosophy.

What is your favourite comfort food?

I don't believe in comfort food. I don't eat when I am unhappy or need comforting. To eat you have to enjoy the moment and be fully present and so you need to be good in your head, to be happy.

Click here for a recipe