Nobu Matsuhisa requires little introduction, he is famous the world over and his restaurants are constantly praised by the press and restaurant critics. Since 1987 he has opened 18 restaurants in 14 cities, which are all successful, including Nobu Hong Kong.

He is credited with the accidental discovery or creation of such classics as soft shell crab roll, the introduction of black cod to Japanese restaurants and his most recent innovations, new-style sashimi, sashimi with jalapeno pepper, and dry miso.

In town recently to introduce new menu items inspired by Hong Kong, I spoke to Nobu about his life long passion for cooking.

What made you want to become a chef?
It has been a dream since I was a child. While other kids dreamt of being a movie star or sporting hero I dreamt of being a chef.

I think my mother was a big influence in my decision. My father died when I was seven and consequently I spent a lot of time with my mother, who was always in the kitchen cooking. In a sense, my mother was my first mentor.

How often do you come to Hong Kong?
I try to get here at least six times a year, sometimes more. I will be back again in October.

How much of your time is spent cooking and do you miss not being so hands-on with 18 restaurants to oversee?
Cooking is my life, and I consider all the processes as cooking. For example, teaching chefs how to create my cuisine, creating new menus, visiting the fish market to look for new ideas, all of these things are part of cooking.

Even when I have the time to physically cook, such as this current visit to Hong Kong, it is difficult because diners want to come up and say hello, have a photo taken with me or get me to sign a cookbook. It is now virtually impossible for me to prepare the dishes.

But, I am happy, my life is so full and I have my health so I don’t feel that anything is missing.

How do you ensure consistency in all your restaurants?
Many of the chefs that are now in charge of my restaurants have been with me for many years and have grown up in Nobu restaurants. They understand my thinking, my food and can recreate it perfectly.

I also receive consistency from the young “hungry” chefs that I hire; they want to be a Nobu too. I teach them about quality and they automatically get it.

I also focus on training and creating a family feel and am big on communication, this also helps achieve quality consistency.

What do you think of the dining scene in Hong Kong?
I first visited Hong Kong 15 years ago, from then until now it has developed a lot and is increasingly international, attracting chefs such as Alain Ducasse, Joël Robuchon, Pierre Gagnaire and me.

I always enjoying eating Cantonese food when I am here and there are some excellent choices.

What is the philosophy behind your food and what is Nobu style?
A concentration on quality, discovering the best way to constantly achieve quality and doing your best. It is about a complete experience and making the customer happy.

Fifty percent of achieving this comes from the food and 50 per cent from the service and atmosphere. Even if the food is very good but the service is bad the restaurant will get a bad reputation. I strive for harmony – the best food and the best service/ambience, this creates a total experience for the diner. It’s all about attention to detail.

Do you think you have much competition in Hong Kong?
It’s not about competition, it is about the customer and the food. I think that competition is ultimately good for diners as the quality has to be high for restaurants to stay in business.

I don’t think about the competition, I think about educating diners and introducing Japanese culture to Hong Kong. I welcome Japanese restaurants such as Zuma as I love my culture.

Both Zuma and Nobu have regular customers; ultimately it is the customer’s choice.

What makes Nobu stand out from the Japanese restaurant crowd?
I believe that my concept of food is inspired and different. I have been studying Japanese culture, seasonal foods, presentation, plating, flavours and textures since I was 18. My food has a Japanese soul.

You would be considered a celebrity chef, what do you think of this term?
I would not call myself that. I have not changed since I was 18, I am still me. The difference is people now know me from my books, TV shows and magazines and consequently some people use that term to describe me.

I think of a celebrity as glamorous, there is nothing glamorous about being a chef – look at my outfit this is not glamorous. He is wearing trainers, baggy trousers and a chef’s jacket.

What inspires you?
I started with a dream and was lucky to travel, which taught me a lot. Now I have many restaurants all over the world, including Nobu restaurants in five continents, and I get to travel to all these great places. I know a lot now about other cultures and other food cultures. All these experiences make me feel inspired professionally and personally.

My success has also inspired me personally to continue to learn more.

Who do you consider are the three best chefs in the world?
That’s easy. My mother, my wife and my mentor, Tadayuki Nakane, he taught me when I was 18 and I learnt all the basics from him.

Do you cook at home?
About once a year. I have my own six-person sushi counter in my home in Los Angeles and every New Year’s day I have a party for the LA staff and make sushi for all my guests.

Name four people (alive or dead) that you would like to have dinner with and why?
My wife, she would really like to meet Crown Princess Masako so I would bring them together.

My father, because he passed away when I was a child and he never got to try my food. I would like to sit down with him, drink and talk and share my life with him.

My mother, because I have no strong memories of the three of us (my father, mother and me)  together.

What is your favourite comfort food?
Hot or cold Japanese noodles. In a soup if hot or with dipping sauces if cold.

How do you decide which cities are right for your restaurants?
People approach me to open a restaurant in their city. If they can get the fish and I think the city is right I then negotiate. I like to do comfortable business and my partners need to understand this style. I do not do business with a cheap investor who is looking for a quick return.

Why have you introduced dishes to the menu that will only be available in Hong Kong?
Chefs always like to create. It also helps educate the diner about Japanese food. By adding an item or ingredient they are familiar with they feel more comfortable and are more willing to try new things. For example, in Hong Kong we have introduced hirami sashimi with XO salsa.

We may introduce some of the Hong Kong dishes to other Nobu restaurants at a later date.

by Vicki Williams
vicki@womguide.com

Nobu’s Recipe
Spiny Lobster with Tamari Sichuan Soy

Ingredients
4 x 300g spiny lobster
1 green sweet chilli (large) - chopped
1 red sweet chilli (large) - chopped
2 bunches of spring onions - thinly sliced
4 tablespoons all purpose flour
Tamari Sichuan Soy sauce – see recipe

Tamari Sichuan sauce
100ml Tamari soy sauce
100ml Japanese rice vinegar
20g whole Sichuan pepper corn
Mix all ingredients and leave for at least 6 hours then strain. Discard the Sichuan pepper

Cook whole lobsters in boiling, salted water for 1 minute, then plunge into ice water.
Remove the meat and dice.
Roll the lobster meat lightly in the flour and season with salt and pepper.
Fry lobster meat in pan with olive oil until golden on all sides.
Add the sweet chilli, toss and remove from pan.
Add to a mixing bowl the spring onion, cooked lobster and chilli. Add the tamari sauce and toss.
Arrange the lobster meat mixed with the vegetables in a bowl and use the lobster shell as decoration.

Note, Don’t add all the sauce back on the lobster when plating as the sauce is strong.

Serves 4