Martin Benn began to shine when a student of cookery in the UK, receiving the most outstanding student award two years running. After completing his studies he quickly rose to prominent positions in some of the leading restaurants, including The Oak Room, The Criterion, and Tetsuya’s.

Since May, he has been at the helm of Western cuisine at Aqua. WOM recently caught up with Martin to learn more about this young chef with the goal to be the best.

Why did you become a chef?
I had originally wanted to be a fireman but was told that my eyesight was not good enough to qualify. Although I was only around 13 at the time, I come from a career-oriented family and I was wondering what I wanted to become instead.

Around the same time, I was collecting glasses in a local pub and the owner’s son, who was a chef, would occasionally guest cook at the pub. I was really impressed by him and his food and shared my interest with him. He suggested I come and spend a week with him in his kitchen to decide if I really wanted to become a chef after a hands-on experience. At the end of the week, I was hooked. I began cooking on the weekends at the age of 14 and haven’t stopped.

You have worked for some notable chefs, which of those made the most impact on you and why?
The biggest inspiration as a chef has come from my mentor Tetsuya Wakuda, who I worked with for seven years. From him I learnt about how food should taste and look, and about the importance of textures. He also taught me about business and how to treat diners as guests, which starts when they make a reservation and ends with following up after they have eaten.

Marco Pierre White was also a big influence. From him I learnt about commitment, passion, pain, dedication and how to be organised, which is very important. Often we would be doing 280 dinners a night and you only had one chance to get the dish right.

And although these chefs both focus on different cuisine they don’t play with the food too much, they don’t overdo flavours and ingredients and this has also influenced my work.

How much of your time is spent cooking?
I estimate around 70 per cent, with the rest spent on menu development, staff management and training.

What do you think of the dining scene in Hong Kong?
I think there are excellent fine-dining restaurants such as Pierre and Caprice, plus there are also good casual dining restaurants, and both are important to any dining scene. However, I see a gap in the middle – a great dining experience.

I hope to position Aqua at the top of this middle category, we are not fine dining, but we have a great product which I intend to lift higher through menu development and staff training. 

I believe it is important to create the food that is right for the place and part of my cooking philosophy for Aqua is to not to put too many flavours together or get too tricky with dishes. Instead serve dishes that are executed well, made from quality produce with a focus on taste and texture. Meals that match the view and create the same response.

What do you think of the term celebrity chef, which you would be considered to be?
I am not a celebrity chef, that’s for people like Jamie Oliver. I am not comfortable with the term or the idea of being one. I consider myself to be a low-key chef but you also have to engage (with customers, press etc) in order to promote the restaurant. However, I know that now there is no big name behind me I need to come out of myself more and be Martin Benn.

I believe that the role with Aqua, which is both challenging and enjoyable, will help me to do this. Perhaps in 2-3 years time when I am as good as the best I will feel differently about the term celebrity chef.

Who do you consider the best chefs?
Pierre Gagnaire, a chef who I have admired for many years due to his philosophy on food and how he is inspired by what’s around him.

Ferran Adrià, his molecular cuisine is truly cutting-edge, and Thomas Keller with his more modern take on cuisine.

Also Alain Ducasse, I recently cooked an eight-course lunch for him and 40 guests. I am happy to say that he was very impressed, so much so that he took excellent care of me when I visited him in Paris. 

What inspires you professionally?
Becoming one of the world’s best chefs and fulfilling the goals I set for myself as a chef.

Going to the market each day to see what is available and deciding what I will create with what I buy.

Reading cookbooks, which I do everyday. They inspire me to ask what can I do to create something as amazing. I have about 400 cookbooks here and another 400 in Australia.

Name four people (living or dead) you would you most like to have dinner with?
It would be people I admire – Gary Oldman, Robin Williams, Princess Diana, and cuisine legend Georges Auguste Escoffier.

Do you cook at home?
No, the kitchen is too small. In Australia I would cook about once a week.

What is your favourite comfort food?
A steak that has been perfectly cooked served with Dijon or English mustard.

Your food has a sensual quality to it that builds with each course, is that by design?
Yes, you have to be aware of this; I learnt a lot about this from Tetsuya. Each course should complement the previous, adding textures and introducing bolder flavours.

What difference will diners that have eaten at Aqua before you came onboard notice most now you are heading the team?
Overall, diners will notice the freshness of the food and the lively flavours. It is important to respect the food, to store it properly, to appreciate its freshness. For example, instead of buying frozen lobster tails to ensure enough diners could choose the lobster dish, I buy fresh, but only the best, and recently that was three lobsters only.

Of course, they will notice the new items that I am introducing to the menu. I believe that my food is different to a lot of other places in Hong Kong and I consider my food to be about the produce and not over complicating flavors because at the end of the day it all comes back to quality.

I want diners to come back to Aqua for the food every week, not every month.

Recipe

Scampi and Linguini Pasta with Scampi and Tarragon Cream

Martin says: I have chosen this dish for a few reasons. Other crustaceans, for example langoustines or prawns, can be used instead of scampi. Although scampi and langoustines are expensive this dish uses all the parts of the crustacean so there is no wastage. As an entrée this dish can be very elegant or for a main course serve can have that rustic and comfort feel to the dish. The cream can be made the day before and stored in the fridge although the cream may separate from the stock. This will just require a quick whisk.

8 scampi (or large prawns)
4 shallots, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 sprig of thyme
100ml white wine
50ml brandy
4 tbsp. tomato paste
200g fresh tomatoes, chopped
1 litre fish stock (available from all good supermarkets)
1 litre cream
1 bunch tarragon leaves, chopped, stems reserved
1 packet linguini pasta
½ bunch chives, finely chopped

Method
Remove the heads from the scampi and the shell from the tail and set aside. Remove the intestinal tube from the scampi tail and discard. Cut each scampi tail into four and set aside in the refrigerator.

Place the scampi heads and shells into a bowl and using the end of a rolling pin lightly crush.

Place a heavy-bottom pan on the stove and heat till very hot. Add a little olive oil and then add in the crushed shells. Roast the shells stirring with a wooden spoon until they change colour and give off a sweet aroma.

Add in the sliced shallots, garlic and thyme and continue to roast on the stove. Continue to cook for about 4-5 minutes, turning the heat down if necessary.

Add in the white wine and brandy and bring to the boil. Reduce the alcohol until there is none left and the pan is almost dry.

Add in the tomato paste and combine well and continue to cook for 2 minutes.

Add in the fish stock and bring to the boil removing any scum that rises to the surface. Reduce the stock buy 2/3rds over a medium heat. Add in the cream and bring back to the boil. Add in the tarragon stalks and reduce the cream by half. Once the cream coats the back of a spoon it is thick enough. Pass the cream through a fine strainer and discard the shells. Keep the scampi cream warm until required.

For the Pasta
Place a heavy-bottom pan filled with salted water on to the stove. Bring to a rapid boil.

Add the linguini to the water making sure to separate as you place it in. Stir the pasta with a spoon to keep separated and bring back to the boil. Cook the pasta until al dente about 7-8 minutes or to manufacturer’s instructions.

To Finish the Dish
Place a sauté pan on the stove over a medium heat. Add a small amount of olive oil and then the scampi tails. Sauté gently for about 30 seconds.

Add in the chopped tarragon leaves and scampi cream and turn up the heat. Drain the pasta well and then add to the scampi cream. Toss well together to combine all the ingredients.

Using tongs divide the pasta between four pasta bowls giving equal portions and scampi pieces. Spoon over any remaining cream and finish with the chopped chives. Serve immediately.

Serves four as an entrée