At only 32, Joe Leung has made quite a name for himself in wine circles. He attended his first wine course in 1995, was the recipient of the Yarraman/WINPAC/Hong Kong Sommelier Association’s Wine Training and Scholarship in 2003, and in 2004 he won the Hong Kong Sommelier Association’s Best Sommelier of the Year award – the first year he entered.

With a goal to one day be a notable wine expert he is currently happy being the sommelier at Gaddi’s, which he calls a dream job.

What sparked your interest in wine?
I was working at a five-star hotel and I had the opportunity as part of the F&B team to take a one-month basic wine course, which I thought, would be good for my career. I got a good result, which increased my confidence and I enrolled in a second course.

I also had a personal interest in wine and was reading a lot about wine in order to increase my knowledge (and to assist guests), but had not had the opportunity to taste a lot of wine. Attending these courses expanded both my knowledge and my passion for wine.

Why do you think you were chosen as the Best Sommelier?
My interest in wine meant that I had sound knowledge and I also had practical experience with a wide range of wines and this really helped. It was an intense testing process involving testing of wine knowledge, vintage knowledge and wine and food pairing recommendations. I feel lucky to have won especially as it was my first time to enter.

What are your favourite wine magazines?
I am an avid reader of Decanter and Wine Spectator; they are both required reading for staying abreast of hot wine topics.

I prefer to read magazines that are in English because often in Chinese language wine magazines the translation has not been done well or the terms don’t translate properly.

What is like to work at Gaddi’s?
Gaddi’s has an excellent reputation, a long history and is world famous, so it was a dream come true for me to join as the sommelier. I have learnt a lot.

Which wine experts or sommeliers have influenced you the most? 
Thomas Scheidt, chef sommelier, Spoon by Alain Ducasse Hong Kong, and John Cheah, one of the founders of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association.

I worked with Thomas as a junior sommelier and he taught me a lot about attitude. It is easy to acquire wine knowledge, that you can learn on your own, but you can’t learn attitude on your own. By attitude I mean how to respect the wine, how to treat it and how to understand its characteristics. I learnt a lot from him on the practical level too, such as how to interact with guests in an elegant way.

The confidence I found under Thomas’ guidance was one reason I felt ready to enter the sommelier competition.

John has been in the wine business for more than 20 years and I have the greatest respect for him and his experience. As a founder of the HKSA he acted as the intermediary between the West and Asia and he put a great deal of effort into promoting wine culture in Hong Kong. He gave me great direction in the early days.

How do you choose the right wine to match the meal?
With a little bit of knowledge and experience it is easy to know which pairings will work. People know what they like but more inexperienced wine drinkers often find it hard to express their preferences in wine terms. So I would begin by asking the customer if they prefer red or white wine, do they have a grape variety preference, do they want a sweet, fruity or a dry wine. Then I take into consideration what the guest is eating combined with their wine preferences and make a recommendation. I allow the guest to try the wine and if they don't like it I am happy to make another recommendation.

You also have to take into consideration that certain cultures have different preferences as at times do men and women. I often find that women like fruity wine, while men often prefer a drier wine.

A cultural example is Hong Kong and Japanese diners. The Cantonese cuisine is characterised by heavy and rich dishes and this results in a preference for more full-bodied, heavier wines, while the Japanese cuisine is more delicate and this results in a leaning towards wines such as Burgundy. The Japanese also know a lot about wine and this shows in the wines they choose.

Do you recommend that people match each course with a different glass of wine or choose a bottle to match the entire meal?
I think that by the glass option results in a better experience for the diner and more and more people are interested in exploring this option as people’s wine knowledge is increasing.

I also think that choosing half bottles is a good option.

The point is that whatever matching option you decide on, the wine should enhance both the flavour and texture of the food.

Do many diners reject your first suggestion?
Ninety per cent of my recommendations are very well received. The remainder are never rejected outright, sometimes I just need to learn more about their preferences to get it spot on.

How often do you do wine tastings and what is your favourite white and red wine?
I try wine everyday. Gaddi’s has over 500 wines, plus there are so many good New World wines coming onto the international scene. There is a lot to keep abreast of so it is necessary to be trying wines daily.

My favourites are determined by my mood and I also rotate to increase my knowledge. I am currently into Italian wines and my favourites, at the moment, are Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti 2002 and Cantine del Notaio.

How does the average diner tell the difference between an excellent and an average sommelier?
It can be quite hard to tell. Things to look for are a caring attitude, a willingness to spend time with you, and recommendations based on merit and not price.

An excellent sommelier will also have impressive interpersonal skills, they will make eye contact with you, they will be able to make observations about your tastes with ease, and will be able to explain to you why they are recommending a particular wine. They will also inspire the diner as they share their wine appreciation experience.

What do you like about being a sommelier?
I find it an inspiring. I love that my recommendations are a reflection of me. It is also an elegant and rewarding career and a position that is held in high esteem.

What inspires you on a personal level?
To learn more. I think it is important to be honest with people and not to pretend to know or to be something you are not. There is no shame in admitting that you don't know something as long as you have the drive to find out, to learn.

Name four people that you would like to share a bottle (or two) of wine with and what wine would you serve?
Thomas Scheidt, in my opinion he is the best sommelier in Hong Kong. John Cheah because of his contribution to wine culture in Hong Kong. My beautiful wife who has given me a lot of support over the past five years; it is important for me to share my happiness with her. Finally, my father, he taught me to pay attention and to always do your best, and it would nice to share my achievements as a sommelier with him.

I would serve the Bordeaux red, Château Gruaud-Larose 1928. I tried this wine two years ago and it is still the best wine I have ever tried. The wine still shows power with perfect maturity, subtle fruit and an elegant finish.

What is your career goal?
I would like to ultimately become a wine consultant, teaching people, especially in Asia about wines, and teaching sommeliers and restaurant managers about the trade.

I would also like to continue to learn more about wine by enjoying more wine in my personal time.