Born in South Africa, Graeme Ritchie began his career in his home country under the guidance of European chefs. However, as a self-confessed gypsy it wasn't long before he began to work overseas.

His travels led him to Asia, where he worked in five-star hotels and resorts in Indonesia, Thailand and Malaysia. It also led to him cooking for royalty, including the King of Jordan, prime minsters, and celebrities such as Jodie Foster and Michelle Yeoh. Prior to joining Cucina in March 2007, he was consulting for South Africa's Sun International Hotels, Resorts and Casinos.

I recently spoke to Ritchie about his current role as well as his plans for the future. He also shares a recipe for one the restaurant's signature dishes.

What were the early influences that led you to become a chef?



An early influence was my grandmother, who is Dutch. I used to watch her cook when I was around 7 year old. I remember food everywhere.

By the time I was 16 I was spending school holidays working for free in hotel kitchens.

Despite this I did not want to be a chef I wanted to be a wildlife vet! However I spent two years in the military cooking for officers; entered a competition and won and was cooking for the top brass, which I enjoyed.

After this I apprenticed under European chefs based in South Africa.

How did your current position come about?
I was back in South Africa and was looking for an opportunity to come back to Asia, which I am fond of, have been since a young age.

I was told that Marco Polo was looking for a chef for a new concept restaurant (Cucina) that was being designed by ultra hip Japanese design company Super Potato; this combination intrigued me and I was interested in getting the restaurant up and running. I love new openings, I like the troubleshooting involved before a new opening. I also like rebranding F&B outlets.



What do you like most about your current role?
The whole team and I have a lot of freedom to create. I also use this freedom to teach my team what they want to learn.

Also the access to produce, if I can sell it then I can have it. For example, Culatello from Parma, this pear-shaped, dry-cured ham is the premium ham of the Parma region (in Italy).

What is the most challenging aspect of your job?
I am used to being more involved beyond the kitchen, which I like. My influence currently is restricted to Cucina and I miss stepping out of the chef's role.

What do you think makes Cucina unique, what are its strengths?
The two open kitchens for preparing European and Asian cuisines and serving both cuisines in the one place; diners are often surprised by this. Diners enjoy being able to share dishes from such diverse cuisines.

Quality and freshness of the produce is a big focus, all our meats and seafood for example are either chilled or live, never frozen. I also source produce from the best suppliers, where ever in the world that happens to be. It takes a lot of pre-planning but it's worth it.



For some time we have also been working on an hydroponic garden on the terrace to grow small vegetables and herbs. We are starting small but it will expand. 

I have tried to create a relaxed approached to dining and so I encourage my chefs to interact with diners. At first they were hesitant but their confidence grew and now they enjoy it.

Of course, the spectacular view is an added bonus.

Which dishes on the Cucina menu do you consider signatures?
Seared Pacific Scallops Wrapped in Pancetta, Bell Pepper Relish, Petit Salad, Anchovy Dressing, Chilli Oil, Parsley & Black Olive Juice. Editor's Note – recipe below!

Braised Wagyu Beef Cheek, Cherry Tomato Confit, Madeira Wine and Truffle
Mashed Potato.

And, Black Cod Fish Fillet Wrapped in Caul Fat and Pancetta, Soya Bean and Bell Pepper Salsa.



I consider them signatures because they have evolved through guest feedback and are a  favorite with our regular patrons. I would say they are not my dishes but the teams.

You have cooked for royalty and celebrities, do you enjoy that?
In some ways it is an honour. When I was working at the Andaman Resort  I was frequently asked to fly to Kuala Lumpur to a private club located in the Petronas Twin Towers, to cook for people like the ex PM of Malaysia, Dr Mahathir.

It is exciting to cook for famous people and to hear their comments and compliments. But, it can make you big headed; it is with time and experience that you become more mellow and less arrogant. 

What has been your most rewarding moment as a chef?
I was fixing up an hotel restaurant in South Africa, rebranding it into a place for new South Africa cuisine - a new approach and outlook, and it was filmed by BBC TV. I am quite camera shy so it was rewarding because it was so daunting. The show was a success and so it was also rewarding to see myself on international TV. I had appeared once before on TV, but only in Australia in a programme about Asian cuisine in Thailand.

Also, opening new restaurants is rewarding, especially places such as Cucina where I have manged to retain all but one of the staff that we initially recruited to work in the Western kitchen, and he only left because of more money...this is not always the case with new openings. I take that as a pat on the back. I may not be the easiest person to work for at times as I do have my limits, but overall the staff have fun with me, I am fun to work with. I don't want staff to be afraid of me. I believe that the staff and I have mutual respect, respect that we have all earned.



If you could only eat one cuisine for the rest of your life, what would it be?
I love spicy food in general, so maybe Indian. But I also love Korean food.

If you could eat in any restaurant in the world that you haven't tried, which would it be?
“Sir” Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck...he is self-taught...from what he has come from to what he is today...not many people could achieve what he has.

He hasn't reinvented he has perfected and shown people and made people realise the importance of the product and produce quality.

What is your long term goal?
I would like to be a hotelier, a GM of a hotel. As I mentioned I like to be involved in a place (hotel, resort etc) beyond the F&B side and the role of a chef. This kind of transition is possible and is beginning to happen but I would like to see more opportunities develop, giving chefs the chance to take their careers beyond the kitchen.

Vicki Williams
August 2008

Cucina
6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel,
Harbour City,
Kowloon
2113 0222
Author's note: I tried several dishes from the Western options and they were excellent.

Recipe



Cucina's Seared Pacific Scallops Wrapped in Pancetta, with Bell Pepper Relish, Petit Salad, Anchovy Dressing, Chilli Oil, Parsley & Black Olive Juice
Serves 4

Scallops
16 medium Pacific scallops
16 thinly sliced rashers of pancetta
extra virgin olive oil
fresh lemon juice
freshly cracked white pepper
sea salt
Method
Pat the scallops dry with a towel and wrap a piece of pancetta neatly around the round part of each scallop, secure with a toothpick. Drizzle the scallops with olive oil and lemon juice. Season to taste with white pepper and sea salt.

Pepper Relish
1    red bell pepper
1    yellow bell pepper
2    garlic cloves, finely sliced
1     sprig of fresh thyme, leaves
white Balsamic vinegar
extra virgin olive oil
freshly cracked white pepper
sea salt
Method
Roast the bell peppers in a hot oven until they blister. Place in a bowl and wrap with plastic to sweat until cool. Peel, de-seed and thinly slice the bell peppers. Marinate with garlic, thyme, a drizzle of white balsamic and olive oil. Season to taste.

Petit Salad
Mesclun salad leaves
extra virgin olive oil
fresh lemon juice
freshly cracked white pepper
sea salt
Method
Drizzle the Mesclun salad leaves with olive oil and lemon juice, just before serving. Season to taste.

Anchovy Dressing
4    anchovy fillets
1    tsp capers
1    tsp parmesan cheese, grated
1    garlic clove, chopped
1    tsp curly parsley, chopped
1    tsp white wine vinegar
1    tsp fresh lemon juice
2    tbsp extra virgin olive oil
    freshly cracked white pepper
    white sugar
    sea salt
Method
Place all the ingredients in a blender, except the seasonings, and pulse until smooth. Correct the consistency with mineral water if required. Season to taste with the white pepper and sea salt. Refrigerate until required

Chilli Oil
1    tsp dried red chilli
1    garlic clove
1/2    tsp paprika
5    tbsp vegetable oil
Method
Place all the ingredients in a small pan and heat until the garlic starts to sizzle. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Carefully strain the oil and set aside until required.

Parsley Juice
1    small bunch of curly parsley
5    tbsp extra virgin olive oil
    freshly cracked white pepper
    sea salt
Method
Blanch the parsley in boiling water and refresh in ice. Pat dry with kitchen paper. Place all the ingredients in a blender, except the seasoning, & pulse until smooth. Season to taste with the white pepper & salt. Refrigerate until required.

Black Olive Juice
6    Kalamata olives, stoned
4    tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1    tbsp mineral water
    freshly cracked white pepper
    sea salt
Method
Place all the ingredients in a blender, except the seasoning, and pulse until smooth. Correct the consistency with more mineral water if required. Season to taste with the white pepper and sea salt. Refrigerate until required.

Assembly
Heat up a non-stick pan and drizzle the surface with a little olive oil. Quickly sear the scallops on all sides and allow them to colour and caramelise until golden brown. Carefully remove the toothpicks.
Divide the petit salad between four plates and garnish with the bell pepper relish.
Arrange four scallops neatly on each plate.
Drizzle the anchovy dressing, chilli oil, parsley juice and black olive juice around the salad and scallops. Must serve while the scallops are still hot.