He has been making award-winning wines for Orlando Wines (parent company) for the majority of his career. I caught up with this passionate winemaker for a chat and a tasting during his recent visit to Hong Kong.

You have been a winemaker for more than 30 years, what keeps you passionate?



I am blessed to have picked a profession that I love. It is a very interesting job; I get to try up to 50 wines a day.

It is also a career that is rewarding because wine has a lasting value, it allows me to leave a legacy (the wine). I can see the result of my work and know that it is a fantastic wine that I produced.

I also get letters from people telling me how much they have enjoyed the wine and thanking me for that, which is very humbling. To know that someone has enjoyed the wine so much that they took the trouble to write and thank me. It is also nice to taste the fruits of my labour.

I still really enjoy winemaking, it is as pleasurable to make as it is to drink.

And, there is always more to learn and that is exciting.

Which of the wines that you have made are you most proud?
The Heritage range.

Especially the Steingarten Riesling, which has achieved iconic status – a great bottle-aging, bone-dry, wine than can be cellared for up to 15 years.

And the Centenary Hill Shiraz from the same range. The grapes come from vines that are up to 90 years old. It is a super premium Shiraz, a classic wine with big plummy notes and soft tannins. Globally it is a sought after product. 



You have your own vineyard, tell me more about that?
It is a small family vineyard, but we don't make any wine; no time to do that and my job.  The great thing about it is being able to grow grapes and learn all there is about that. I consider it the last piece in the jigsaw puzzle of my wine knowledge.

I have also learnt it is a tough life, not easy, but gee you learn a lot. There is definitely a certain amount of pleasure and a sense of achievement when you see the fruit on the vines just before harvest.

It has also given me a closer relationship with growers.

And, I love being outside, getting my hands dirty, and that sense of being closer to nature.



It is clear that the most rewarding aspect of your job is creating each vintage, what is the most challenging?
Dealing with the drought and the impacts of global warming are the two big challenges. Average temperatures in Australia are increasing, while average rainfalls are decreasing. The landscape is changing and we need to figure out what to do so we are still viable in 20-30 years time.

One alternative is planting European varietals, which are heat tolerant and more forgiving of warm temperatures.

With the ongoing drought and the changing climate, do you think the Australian wine industry has a positive future?
Like Jacob's Creek the whole industry is looking to the future and asking ourselves if where we grow now, we will be able to grow there in the future.

Will new varietals become vogue.

To have a future we have to apply Darwinian thinking and make the best of the challenges through adaptation. It really is a matter of change and adapt or die.

We are already looking at alternative options and opportunities and are taking into account longterm predictions for temperature change and rainfall. This is helping us to plan correctly what we should do for longterm success.



On a lighter note, what is your favourite varietal to drink?
Cabernet Sauvignon. A classic, with structure and tannin, the ability to age and develop complexity and it also pairs well with a steak.

I am becoming more fascinated with Pinot though. It is elegant, fragrant, with complexity and is a good food wine. It works well with duck. I particularly like our Reserve Range Pinot.

What is the most memorable wine you have drunk?   
It was only a few weeks ago, a revisit to a wine I had tried before. An Orlando Wine's Eden Valley Riesling 1977, it was astonishing, still so alive, totally unique and has aged well. A benchmark wine. We served it at a wine dinner we organised; of the 20 bottles we opened eight were corked, and we now only have 30 bottles left.

The 1996 Steingarten Riesling, is also an excellent wine – honey, toast, lemon butter, citrus. 

Why do you think wine enthusiasts in Hong Kong should try the recently introduced Three Vines Range? (link to http://www.womguide.com/program/feature/feature62.php)
These wines are contemporary and pair two wellknown varietals in Australia with a European varietal. The third varietal adds a point of difference, resulting in wine that is new and different.

The wines are fruit-driven, and are all dry wines. They are young drinking wines, although the red can be cellared for up to seven years. 

They are also very food-friendly wines, including Asian food. The Rose in particular goes well with spicy Asian food, as well as duck and seafood dishes.

What tips do you have for the novice wine-drinker?



I think the real enjoyment of a wine comes when it is paired with food, a good match brings out hidden elements of the wine, and the wine aids digestion.

Discovering what you like is a personal journey, so try different wines till you discover what appeals to you and then learn more about the varietals and regions.

Also when a wine labels describes a wine, say “with hints of black currant” and you can't taste that persevere. It is not going to taste exactly the same but something about the wine's aroma or flavour will remind you of black currant. It is an association not a replica. This is part of the journey of discovering more about wine.

by Vicki Williams
October 2008