Makoto Ono began his career at a young age, rising through the ranks of his family's Japanese restaurants in Winnipeg, Canada, working his way from dish washer to sushi chef. He continued on to the famed Dubrulle Culinary Arts Institute and by the age of twenty-one was training under Michelin star chefs Marco Pierre White and Jean Georges Vongerichten. It was in these kitchens that Ono gained valuable appreciation of the art behind French cuisine and learned to blend these new skills with his Japanese roots. 

In 2007, this unknown chef was firmly in the international spotlight after being crowned Canadian Culinary Champion, beating many of Canada's top celebrity chefs. He spent 2008 working with the Olympians in Beijing and is now in Hong Kong as guest chef of Dakota Prime. I caught up with this young and talented chef to learn more. 

Have you always wanted to be a chef?

Growing up, I aspired to be an artist, focusing on fine arts, such as drawing and painting. The inspiration to transition into cooking came when I was 18 and my father asked me to assist him at his sushi restaurant.  

I began working at the sushi bar and found it to be quite challenging and rewarding. The immediate reaction from the customers to my creations motivated me to perfect the craft and improve the quality and presentation of the food I was serving. This was when I realised that I could apply my love for fine art and my artistic visions to the culinary world. 

As guest chef at Dakota Prime, what will be your signature touches?

I use a blend of French and Japanese techniques that add character and varied textures and tastes to simple recipes. 

I will be respecting the traditional ways of serving steak at the restaurant, while adding my personal flare to the appetisers and some of the seafood plates. Examples are the Seared Crisp Alain Francois Goose Foie Gras, the Seared Hokkaido Scallops, the Japanese Amadai Fillet, the salads, and the Meyer's Natural Angus Prime Beef Steak Tartare. 

What is your cuisine philosophy?

I am passionate about letting the ingredients speak for themselves. I create dishes that are uncluttered or masked by too many flavours, allowing for a more clean and refined taste.  

I believe in attention to detail, and the creative combinations that I use make my food truly unique. 

Overall, my dishes are light, rich in taste and texture, and often combine food items that one would not necessarily think of putting together, such as the Lobster Ceviche with Lime Sorbet; Watermelon, Goat's Cheese and Lobster; and Caviar and White Chocolate.

I strive to ensure consistency and excellence in the creation, preparation, plating and serving of the dishes. I believe in working with my team to ensure that every plate surpasses quality and presentation expectations of the diner.

Which items on Dakota Prime's menu do you consider the restaurant's signature dishes and why?

Definitely the Lobster Bisque, it is one of Dakota's most popular appetisers. We make our bisque daily using only fresh lobster to create the base of the soup. Most other lobster bisques use crab and shellfish shells to make the stock. We then reduce it twice before adding in the rest of the ingredients, which allows for a more robust and intense flavour.  

Our Crab Cakes are also very popular. We use large chunks of fresh crab meat which makes the consistency and texture of the crab cake different than others. There is no breading and the only binding agent used is scallop mouse resulting in light, moist crab cakes packed with flavour. 

And of course, our signature dishes are our steaks.  

We are one of only a handful of restaurants in Hong Kong serving Meyer's Natural Angus. This type of beef is fully traceable from farm to table and is raised on an all-vegetarian diet without any hormones or antibiotics. The restaurant serves the Meyer's 21-day aged NY Strip which has been aged bone-in and results in a very tender and richly flavoured cut of meat. 

Another exclusive and highly requested item is the Snake River Farms, American Kobe. SRF crosses premier Japanese Wagyu cattle with Black Angus cattle to create American Wagyu or American Kobe Beef. The beef meets Japan's strict marbling requirements and is known as the beef that can be cut with a butter-knife. The texture and taste of this meat is subtle yet complex and is an experience everyone should try at least once. 

What's the secret to cooking steak and why is Dakota's steak better than other steak restaurants?

Each steak is personally tended to, to ensure its perfection. The steaks are grilled using lava rocks which offer a more even and consistent distribution of heat when compared to standard grills. They also vaporize the drippings adding additional flavour through the smoke. 

In general, what distinguishes Dakota Prime from its competitors, and what makes me excited to be onboard, is the freshness and superior quality of the products. The concept that makes the restaurant truly unique is that there are no freezers apart from the one for ice cream. All items are flown in multiple times a week to ensure that our guests are enjoying produce at its peak for optimum flavour.  

Which chef do you most admire?

Tetsuya Wakuda for his food philosophy. He established one restaurant many years ago in Sydney (Australia) and to this day, you will still find him working in the kitchen. Tetsuya stays true to the food and cooks with fresh and seasonal ingredients. He is a Japanese chef who incorporates French techniques and has a deep respect for the products he uses and the art of fine cuisine. 

What is your favourite comfort food?

Noodles! I really enjoy all types of food with noodles: pasta Carbonara, instant cup-o-noodles, Wanton Mein to Pho, I love it all.  

Editor's Note - Chef's Tasting Menu

Until the end of May you can experience chef Ono's five-course tasting menu at a special price of $688 per person.