When eponymous chef Harlan Goldstein opened his first venture in IFC even his ‘rich and famous’ customers knew they couldn’t just turn up without calling.  Hong Kong’s elite were happy to book two weeks in advance for the privilege of gorging on gourmet burgers with truffle mayonnaise, washed down with a HK$220,000 bottle of 1811 D’Yquem.  The stunning harbour view was happily ignored as customers strained their necks to catch a view of the local celebrities and socialites that filled the place.  Capitalising on this success Tuscany by H quickly followed offering Italian fine dining in the heart of Lan Kwai Fong.  Two restaurants in less than two years might be enough for some chefs, but not for Harlan.  Hot on the heels of Tuscany by H came private H, an exclusive fourteen-seat restaurant where customers are catered to by a personal chef, butler, sommelier and attendants.  By now, some sceptics were questioning if Harlan’s database of rich and famous was large enough to fill the seats in all of his venues.  Harlan’s answer to this?  Three more venues.  Where?  Right back where he started in IFC. 

WOM guide caught up with Harlan at his latest venue, H One, to ask the question, brainiac or maniac? This and more.

WOM: What made you want to become a chef?
HG:    I started cooking when I was fourteen years old.  When I was younger I was a bit of a tearaway, so my mother, as a form of punishment, made me work in my uncle’s restaurant.  Rather than being a punishment it was a blessing as I discovered I loved cooking and it turned my life around. 

Do you have any formal training?
Yes, I went to school in Switzerland.  I also worked in France and Italy so my training was very classical.

What made you come to Asia from New York?
I came to Asia in 1991 mostly out of curiosity.  I was offered the position of Executive Chef at the China World Hotel in Beijing.  I was only twenty-six years old and I was being offered this coveted position; it was an offer too good to turn down.  After that I did a stint in Bangkok, which I didn’t enjoy very much.  Then I came back here to work as executive chef at Hong Kong's exclusive Aberdeen Marina Club.  When I saw the luxury yachts and exotic cars I knew I was going to love Hong Kong.  I worked at the Marina for nine years, cooking for tycoons and socialites. 

Why is so important to you that your clientele are wealthy?
It doesn’t matter to me what they own.  I like the fact that the people I cook for are well travelled and experienced in food and wine.  They know what they like and they expect the best.  Cooking for these people means I can use the best ingredients to create my menus and offer the best wines from all over the world.  That’s what I enjoy.

How would you describe your cuisine?
Harlan’s is modern western.  Really good ingredients cooked well.  Tuscany by H is authentic Italian, a little rustic, homemade pasta and sauces, hand picked ingredients imported from Italy.  H One is a tapestry of dishes and styles ranging from signature grills to authentic Italian, Indian and Mediterranean cuisine.  In The Box we serve an authentic Italian buffet with a spread of antipasti, salads, hot dishes and desserts every day.

What made you choose IFC as the place to open your first restaurant?
To me it was obvious. I have 88 stories of financial businesses within a four-minute walk of my restaurant.  These are my customers.  Financiers, successful businessmen, the moneyed corporate world. 

Do you think it was wise to open so many restaurants in HK in such a short time period?
Before Harlan’s even opened its doors I had a two-week waiting list.  Anyone who was anyone wanted to come to Harlan’s. We were so busy the whole time; I knew I could easily fill another restaurant.  I have over seven hundred names on my mobile and they are nearly all my customers.  Lots of my customers have personal tables at all of my venues.  They call me up and tell me where they want to eat that night and which of their friends will be occupying their table in the other venue. 

As if on cue Harlan’s mobile phone rings and he takes a booking for Tuscany by H.

How do you divide your time among these outlets, are you not afraid of spreading yourself too thin?
I don’t worry about that because I know I have the right team in each venue.  I personally interview every one of my staff.  Some of them have worked with me for years.  It’s all about respect.  I respect them and they respect me.  They know me well and they understand what I need from them and because they know I care very much they give it.  Of course I spend time in each one of my venues, discussing menus, talking about wine lists, planning promotions etc.  I’m also available at any time for any one of my staff to talk to.

Do you still cook for your customers?
I spend about 20% of my time cooking.  The rest of the time I’m planning, running and promoting my business.

Do you plan on opening anything outside of Hong Kong?
I just took a look at an amazing venue in Macau.  I really liked it, but decided I really couldn’t afford to spend time away from Hong Kong right now.  I want to concentrate on what I have here at the moment.

What do you think of the dining scene in Hong Kong, do have a favourite restaurant other than your own?
That’s a difficult question.  I don’t want to be rude but there’s nothing outstanding.  I don’t really have a favourite.  I go to Aqua sometimes if I have guests in town, but more for the view than the food really.

Who inspires you when it comes to cooking? 
My uncle is my inspiration in cooking, my mother is my inspiration in life.

What’s your favourite food?
Japanese, but there’s not much good Japanese food in Hong Kong.

Do you cook at home?
I’m never at home.

Are you a brainiac or a maniac?
Both!

Harlan’s
Podium Level 2, IFC Mall, Central
Tel: 852 2805 0566

Tuscany by H
Shop A&B, G/F, Grand Progress Building, 58-62 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong
Tel: 852 2522 9798

Private H
Tel: 852 2805 0566

H One, The Box, G Bar
Podium Level 4, IFC Mall Central
Tel: 852 2805 0638