Bobby Chinn is the vivacious, cheeky host of travel and cooking show, World Cafe Asia and is the owner of the successful Restaurant Bobby Chinn in Hanoi, Vietnam. He has also authoured his first cookbook, Wild, Wild East. Half Chinese, half Egyptian, raised in England, lived and worked in the US and now based in Hanoi, Chinn calls himself an ethnic mutt. He learnt his trade under such chefs as Hubert Keller and Gary Danko. 

I spent a pleasant evening, followed by a breakfast interview, with Chinn as I tried to discover who the real Bobby Chinn is, and what he plans to achieve in the future. He also shares a recipe from his new cookbook. 

The food at your restaurant, and in your cookbook, has elements of many different cuisines, how would you describe your cuisine?

Eclectic. It comes with the philosophy of Californian cuisine (which is regional French influenced), for example no butter except for desserts, plus lots of local ingredients. There are Arabian, Vietnamese, Californian, and Japanese influences; it is global cuisine.

Some of the recipes are traditional but using modern techniques or reinterpreting classics and making it easier to prepare in the restaurant.  

Is the Bobby Chinn we see on the show the real you?

Yes, I am the same person on and off TV, just more editorialised on TV. Personally, I think my best work has ended up on the cutting room floor or was considered not fit for TV.

For example, we were filming a piece where unknown to me the producer had ordered a cooked sheep's penis because they wanted to film my reaction when I found out what it was after I had tried it. I had done butchering work in my past and so when the dish was put down in front of me I said, “This doesn't look like any cut of meat I've seen, is this a penis? I don't know whether to go down on it or eat it!” Apparently, I was meant to eat the thing without mentioning the P word because it would offend some of the viewers! Also they didn't think that some of the audience would understand my comment - I actually thought it might have got us some new viewers – those that did get it. 

Which role do you enjoy most, restaurateur or TV chef?

My role in the restaurant has changed a lot since the show. Before I could just be in my uniform of jeans and a black t-shirt taking orders and helping out, with diners saying to me “Boy your English is really good”. I enjoyed that many people couldn't figure me out. Now the diners have cameras on their tables wanting to take my photo and so I am not as productive on the floor. My value is also not in the kitchen anymore because people want to meet me. Now I do the preparation work, and my team, none of whom speak English, execute the dishes. I like the idea of the intermediary role and teaching and sharing my knowledge...in the past I had the attitude that I was the expert but you can't be.

The show has increased my comfort level of people helping me and I also enjoy making information accessible in a fun way, which I get from the TV show especially.

Until you opened your own place you had more than your fair share of things go wrong for you professionally in Vietnam, what made you persevere?

I wanted a fair shot. When you have two equally talented chefs and one has backing and one doesn't the result is different. Even when I worked for other people I still didn't have the right support or equipment needed and it was painful to make anything; it pissed me off. I thought if I am going to struggle then at least do it my way, cook my food.

As the time got closer to finally being able to open my own place my confidence did drop, but I did it. It was very successful even in the middle of a recession. A journo friend from the Financial Times wrote a great article about me making a reputation in a culinary jungle. I felt I had arrived. Over time there was an increase in articles recognising my work, efforts and food. Ultimately, the comment from a diner, “That was a great meal”, is all a chef is looking for.

When I opened my place I wasn't thinking about anything but revenge, in hindsight I know that this is petty, but at the time I had a blind passion to prove myself and what I could do...I think this passion made me do better. I am happy I did persevere, we all have a tendency to run when things get tough. One the first day of opening my own place I could have died happy. 

Are you happy with the cookbook?
I am OK with it. 

I have another cookbook that I would like to do, one that includes the whole journey not just vignettes. The journey is important, my journey while unorganised is so valuable. There are 99 ways to skin a cat not just one, so the next book would go into techniques with whole chapters dedicated to steaming, building flavours, and all the things you can do, all interlinked. 

What are your goals?

I would like to roll out the Bobby Chinn concept business model. Of course, I don't want to mess around with what I have now and there is no real need for me to be in Vietnam, but I feel that lots of people have helped me to be a success so I don't know.

Maybe open more restaurants. I want to create and conceptualise projects, train and teach, but I don't like to manage.

I am going to do another season of WCA and a new show, Asian Flavours, which focuses on just cooking not cooking and travel. It will focus on a cooking technique such as steaming, smoking, sauté, deep fry etc and I will prepare four dishes using one technique each show. 

To do all that is already a challenge, and to add to this, to realise my goals I need support. 

The important thing is quality of life, which I now have and I have also been recognised for my efforts. While I am not making lots of money I have never been happier. 

What is your favourite comfort food?

I don't have one, it would be mood dependent. If it is raining or I am hungover it would be Indian or Mexican food. If I am sick congee or pho. If I fancy something light, Japanese. If I am walking and eating, falafel. 

Although if I could only eat one cuisine for the rest of my life it would be Chinese.

Recipe Link