The first time I tried chef Philippe Orrico's food was when he was a protege of Pierre Gagnaire. I did not enjoy the food and as a result did not rush out to eat at St. George when Orrico joined Hullet House. I was therefore surprised by my recent (and first time) meal at St. George.

I have a few theories. Maybe Orrico was having a bad day on the day of my lunch in 2007. Even chefs have bad days and when they do the food is never as good as when a chef is on fire, which a great chef is on most days. Another theory is that the still young chef has come into his own at St. George, and that he and his food have matured. Another is that as the top dog he is now free to create food that is truly his. Ultimately, the answer really isn't important, what is, is the food, and it impressed.    

The À La Carte Experience

My dining companion and I decided on different dining paths, he stuck with the a la carte menu, while I went for the tasting menu.

While there was an appealing selection of cold and hot appetisers, my friend was unable to go past the Freshly Shucked Oysters because the selection of six included three Belon 000. Belon are known as the "oyster lover's oyster" and my oyster loving friend had not tried them before. Three Pousse en Claire were also served with a shallot vinegar and presented on seaweed. While the Pousse en Claire were a fine oyster the Belon were mind-blowing and unlike any oyster we had tried. The lingering flavour, varied tastes and textures and brilliant finish contained in one oyster was like six of any other variety. Also included was some rye bread and a grilled English sausage, which with its salty savouriness interestingly brought back the flavour of the oyster but with a difference. He said that the opposite yet complementary nature of the two ingredients made sense in the mouth. 

He also went for the signature Crispy 63 Degree Egg - crab meat veloute thickened with sweet potato puree, sauteed wild mushrooms and a sprinkle of truffle. The dish had a mad flavour profile, with each ingredient present but not dominant. 

His main of Organic Welsh Salt Marsh Saddle of Lamb - snails with cumin jus, carrot, butternut and black garlic, Yorkshire yoghurt with mint and baby herbs - was the humble Sunday roast elevated to a Michelin worthy level. From the description many of Orrico's dishes might seem to have too much going on but this was a good example that this is not so - everything on the plate was thought-out, precise, measured, with contrasting flavours that also complement. The superlative lamb with its saturated flavour was sublimely cooked, though not as requested, and seasoned just right from its natural saltiness. It also had a delicious fattiness in the mouth, surprising as it was a lean piece of meat. The only complaint was the serving size, three small medallions of lamb was not enough. Hands-down best lamb ever he said.

A perfect finish to his meal was his "out-of-this-world" dessert of White Truffle - White chocolate, feuillantine and white truffle ice cream. It was truffle heaven...the ice cream fantastic especially with the addition of freshly shaved truffle. Ice cream lends itself to savoury flavours and this was a great example.  

I also have to mention the excellent bread, something I don't do normally, but in this case it was outstanding and we ate almost two baskets of warm, fluffy goodness.

Tasting Menu

I opted for the eight course tasting menu: Australian Crayfish, Grapefruit and mango with mint; salmon roe and pink radish; Roasted US Scallops with Braised turnips, pear jelly and curry sauce; Oyster Soup, Seaweed knodel with walnuts; Alba White Truffle, Quail eggs, sautéed mushroom with garlic and Beaufort toast; Atlantic Silver Cod, Crab meat, sea urchin and chestnut sauce with green olives; Roasted Pork Belly with Colonnata, white beans, confit raisins, cuttlefish and buttermilk; Pheasant Breast, Confit eggplant, artichoke with hazelnut oil, black garlic and foie gras sauce; and Les Desserts du Saint George.

With limited words I will touch on some of the many highs of the dishes, but first the only low the silver cod course. It was my least favourite course but only because it did not live up to the preceding courses, and because the sea urchin was barely detectable. It did however have an interesting flavour profile. Also slightly disappointing was the pork belly, which I love, but in this case the pork was a tad underdone and the skin was not crispy but chewy, but in terms of unusual ingredient combinations working the dish was a success.

The opening crayfish salad, plated to resemble an exotic flower, was bursting with freshness (a word I use rarely), especially the cray, tasting as if it had jumped from the ocean to my plate. I also enjoyed the contrasting sweet, tart, salty and bitter flavours, combining to extend the sensation of each. 

The soup was a clever dish that played with the mind and expectations. Like oysters it was creamy and salty and captured the essence of the sea, but there were no oysters in it...its oyster-ness largely coming from the seaweed dumpling. It is hard to go wrong when a dish involves white truffle, rich eggs and toast, so the next perfectly executed course was a sure-fire winner. It was only the second time I had eaten pheasant, in this case reminding me of a superb roast chicken with gravy, except with pheasant and foie gras...a suitably rich dish to end the savoury journey.

Orrico's idea of dessert has been influenced by his days with Gagnaire, meaning that there is going to be more than one dessert. In this case it is a sampling of many of the desserts from the a la carte menu, which are a creative extension of the rest of the food. I enjoyed them all, some were compelling, some were intense, while others made me smile because of their playfulness and surprise elements. The artfulness of the food extended to the petit fours, and because they looked so appealing we found room for them.

The dishes at St. George may surprise on paper but it makes sense for the palate...and for me scores extra marks for creativity and imagination. I feel that Orrico is a talented chef with stars in his eyes, Michelin stars, and he is well on his way to achieving them at St. George. 

Ambience, Service, Price

Hullet House's goal of recreating a colonial gentleman's club feel with St. George has been successful. High ceilings, masculine furnishings, space between tables, intimate lighting, hushed tones and the air of formality abound. However I found the room a little cool and uncomfortably formal, and personally I think the design is all wrong for Orrico's food. The room needs some warmth, some personality, and more cohesive music. I wonder how he would decorate the space if given the chance. 

The staff were somewhat formal too, although friendly. The staff recommended wine pairings worked.

Prices for the a la carte dishes as in order of above: $408, $218, $488, and $288; the Tasting Menu, which changes regularly is priced at $1,188 for eight courses or five courses for $888.

Images courtesy of St. George for reference only.