The expectation you have as a diner of the food experience you will have can be influenced by many factors. For example, if you are dining at a home-style, neighbourhood place you will have very different expectations than if dining at a Michelin star restaurant. External factors such as location, ambience, outlook, can also influence expectations.

Personally, when I dine at a restaurant with an amazing view I have certain expectations of the food. I expect, rightly or not, that the food is going to be as good as the vista. Perhaps due to this, I have at times, been disappointed in the past. Therefore, when I recently dined at Le 188°, with its stunning 188-degree view of the harbour, I did so with high expectations.

Expectations Surpassed

We enjoyed a glass of the Beaumont des Crayeres Grand Prestige Brut NV as we tried to study the menu, but the surrounds were commanding more of our attention at first. One of the signatures of the restaurant is its fresh oysters, so we began our meal with six and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc (Saint Clair Vicar's Choice, NZ 208). The heavenly match of oysters, crisp wine and the view was a superb way to begin the night.

For the first time in Hong Kong I had oysters that had been properly shucked, they just slid straight off the shell and into my mouth. All six (Kumamoto, Sydney Rock, Irish Rock, Franklin Bay, Normandie and Fine de Claire) were outstanding, with the Sydney Rock and the Fine de Claire being the best I have had in HK, the latter almost melted in my mouth. They also have Belon 0000 on the menu, which at $128 each must be a cut above the average.

We also shared the signature Lobster Bisque. The bisque was beautifully presented with a lobster claw and globus artichoke ravioli in the center of the plate, with the soup (that included balsamic vinegar and star anise emulsion) skilfully poured in at the table. We both enjoyed the bisque with its hint of anise and delicate lobster flavour, which developed further when the soup had cooled slightly.

Modern Menu

All the dishes on the menu sounded interesting and contemporary, with some tempting due to the unusual combinations or creative promise such as the two appetisers that we selected, the chef's signature - Raw Scallops: apple ginger jelly, dill sour cream, crispy rice, micro herbs; and Confit Pork and Kumamoto Oysters: poached quail egg, cauliflower foam, lemon.

The plating of the scallop dish was artistic and it looked beautiful with its top of edible flowers and micro greens - stunning. Overall, we found that the dish looked better than it tasted, the flavour of the scallop was a little lost in the dill sour cream, and while it did get better when the scallops had reached room temperature it did not live up to its visual mastery. 

The pork and oyster dish on the other-hand was not much to look at, but it tasted sensational. All the ingredients were good on their own, but they really did become more than the some of their parts when combined. It was a sheer delight to eat - the pork melted, the oyster burst, the egg bound, the mash carried, resulting in our favourite dish of the night.

Expected More

Our main choices, or entrees as they are listed on the menu, were Australian 500-Day Grain Fed Wagyu Beef Tenderloin with a bone marrow crust, dried cherries and cream cheese cake; and the Roasted Cod Fish with organic egg, crispy bacon, creamy spinach and olive breadcrumbs. The presentation of both dishes was appealing.

While the steak was tender I had expected more based on the description, it did not have the flavour or the texture I had imagined or expected. I did enjoy the different flavours on the plate, from the richness and intensity of the jus, the sweetness of the cherry, through to the clean flavour of the beans. My friend's fish was classy comfort food and enjoyable to eat.

Competent and Creative

In the name of research and to bring you as much info as is possible we managed to fit in two desserts - Lychee Nitro: passion fruit creme, coconut foam, hazelnut crumble; and 72% Chocolate Platter: warm lava cake, bitter mousse, jelly, milkshake, mint ice cream.

I am a fan of the whole nitro thing, which is why I picked the lychee dessert, that and the fact I love passion fruit. It was a light and refreshing dessert with a certain unexpected intensity to the lychee taste. The presentation of the chocolate dessert was lovely with its different interpretations of chocolate. In hindsight I would suggest you eat the dessert in the order presented by the staff, I began in the opposite order and the mint is not the place to start. My favourites on the platter were the divine lava cake and the unusual choc jelly. To complement the sweet treats we enjoyed a glass of the Ceretto Moscato, yum!

While the food at Le 188 is not the 11 out of 10 that I had expected as a consequence of the view, the descriptive menu and the appearance of the dishes, it is competently created, creatively plated and at times better than expected.

Ambience, Service, Price

Le 188 is the signature restaurant of self described 5-Star hotel the Harbour Grand and the decor reflects the sense of grandeur and space that hits you when you enter the hotel lobby. The floor-to ceiling windows, the ceiling height, the space between tables, and the long entrance all give a sense of spaciousness. The unusual angled chairs and window detailing combined with being on the 41st floor with the view gave me a sense of The Jetsons. Colourful space-age meets elegant spaciousness. The commanding view has an immediacy, as if you could reach out and touch everything.

The service, as was expected, was excellent. A fine dining feel without pretence. The friendly staff were all confident in recommending dishes and wines. The one thing we did find odd was when a second and different white wine was brought to the table the glass had a green sticker on it, like you get if at a wine tasting so that you can tell which wine is which - seemed out of place.

There is a relatively extensive wine list as well as a long list of drinks; many people enjoying the view that night were just there for drinks. All the wines that we had were from the by-the-glass list, and as recommended by the staff matched the dishes we ordered. This included the Domaine Auffray Chablis Burgundy, France 2006, and Spy Valley Pinot Noir, New Zealand 2007.

Oysters are priced at $38 each, or $218 for six or $398 for a dozen. The soup was $148, appetisers were $190 and $268, mains $498 and $298, desserts $98 and $108. There is four courses menu for $488 per person or a six-course tasting menu for $838. The restaurant also does a very good value set lunch - 2 courses $218, $258 for three, and $298 for four. Until the end of the month there is also a black truffle menu with a selection of five dishes.