Before booking I did a little research about the latest Sydney “It” restaurant, Oscillate Wildly. One review spoke of its five-course degustation for the bargain price of $52 (approx HK$350). It then went on to say that this was about to change. This was indeed the case when I booked, as I was told their menu was now an eight-course degustation for $99. The idea I would get to try more did not disappoint me.



A Warm Beginning
We arrived to a warm reception, attentive yet casual. It was like being invited into someone’s home.

The restaurant is in a small converted terrace house and features simple, low key, unassuming decoration. Clean walls, minimal art and low lighting relaxed us as soon as we entered. The look was completed by wooden chairs and tables, and classic white linen.

Water was already poured when we were seated, which was a nice touch. We were then served the house-made sourdough. It had delicious crisp edges, and was soft, chewy and sour on the inside.

Our waitress brought the wine list and asked us if we’d like to “start our journey” for the evening; the staff introduced the meal this way with each guest. We asked for a little more time as we perused the wine list. The wine list included a decent selection of Australian varieties (12 reds, 10 whites) with two New Zealand wines represented and four by-the-glass options. Prices ranged from $30 to $100. 

We chose the wine and began our journey.

Our Journey



For the first few courses the table next to us received the same course as us moments before ours came. This was advantageous for the impatient diner (we would later overtake them with gusto).

First course was Smoked Eggplant Puree, topped with Trout Roe and Shallot. It was served in an empty eggshell, which was placed on a mound of salt. The puree was delicate and light, the roe adding a burst of the ocean. It was simple and well executed. I must confess the dim light and my willingness to find anything an edible food stuff pushed me to dip my spoon first into the salt. Of course I didn’t realise this until it was well in my mouth. I winced and swallowed not wanting to cause a fuss. My dining partner had followed my lead and was now realising what he had put in his mouth and promptly spat it out. We gave this dish the affectionate title of the “Egg Trinity”, eggplant and fish egg served in an egg. A witty combination.

Second course was House Sugar-Cured Salmon with a Crust of Toasted Crushed Wild Rice, Dried Beetroot Flakes, Shaved Fennel Salad and Eucalyptus Gel. The eucalyptus gel alone scored this one big points with me. It was clear and very much like something you would buy from a chemist. But the taste was lightly sweet with a breath of eucalyptus. Amazing!

The salmon was lightly cured but just a little too sweet for me. The rice crust added a nice crunch, as did the dried beetroot. Although this dish was great in all its separate parts, and the experience of them together was thought provoking, it just didn’t pull it off as a whole dish.



Lacking Pop
After a small break we received our third course, which was Cuttlefish Fried in Black Olive Oil, on a Black Rice Cake, with Red Pepper Puree and Burnt Onion. The cuttlefish was tender, and the rice cake acted as a good simple vehicle. The red pepper puree was a nice accent and lift to the dish, and the sprinkle of burnt onion was, as our waitress so cutely put it, “like fried onion off the barbie”. The overall dish worked well, but still lacked that pop we were so desperately seeking.

Next we had the Beef Blackbean. I had been looking forward to this one, mainly because it was so simply put on the menu, but with the preceding food in our bellies telling us we were in for something interesting and innovative. We were served a small beef cheek which had been cooked for 12 hours, then covered with a creamy black bean sauce, accompanied by pickled watermelon and beetroot hearts. The beef cheek was sublime, the right amount of melt in your mouth and rich meaty goodness. The sauce was interesting but the beef hardly needed any more flavour. The pickles cut through the richness nicely.

Big Finish
Our next dish was Pan-Fried Jewfish on a bed of Zucchini Noodles, with a smear of Pumpkin and Amaretto Puree, a drizzle of blended Vanilla Chickpea, and Chickpea Foam. The Jewfish was perfectly cooked with crispy skin, and you could taste the quality and ocean freshness. The strings of zucchini formed a moist bed, and the pumpkin was light with just a hint of almond. The vanilla chickpea and foam were interesting but a little bland, and didn’t give the required lift.



Sixth course was slices of Rare Venison coated in Bitter Chocolate, with Confit Potato and Caramelised Witlof. The venison was gamey and rich, and the bitter chocolate gave a nice contrast, making the venison sweeter. The tiny potato confit was earthy and the caramelised witlof sweetly cut through the gamey venison. The dish was bold and strong, and the bitter chocolate was a clever touch.

Innovative Sweetness
The dessert courses began with a plethora of Apple. A scoop of apple-thyme sorbet, topped with a wafer of sweet bread and apple foam. The waitress sprinkled fine apple crumble around the bowl, then poured in cool apple soup. There was no question you were eating apple.

The sorbet and soup were both tart and sweet, and the wafer made a good mellow rest from the apple onslaught. The dish was light and refreshing, and was a pleasant respite from the savoury dishes that
preceded.



The last dish was a square of Flourless Chocolate Cake, topped with a Pinenut Butter Icecream, Apple Paper, and a smear of Citrus Gel. Our waitress explained the citrus gel was made by pressure cooking lemons for 12 hours to remove their bitterness. This process produced a clear paste, similar in texture to the eucalyptus gel, but with an intense lemon zest flavour.

The chocolate cake was moist and fluffy, and the richness was nicely balanced by the icecream. The flavour of the pinenut was so delicate it only came through as the mouthful melted on your tongue. It was topped with fine ribbons of “apple paper”. This was a well rounded finish to our journey.



Oscillate Wildly is an innovative new player in the Sydney food scene. It takes Modern Australian cuisine to exciting and challenging new heights. Although some of the dishes did not seem to reach their full creative potential, the overall journey was intellectually challenging, visually appealing and delicious.

by Jacqui Williams,
Sydney Correspondent
March 2008

Postscript – The Chef



In late 2007, respected UK magazine Restaurant named Oscillate Wildly’s award-winning head chef Daniel Puskas as one of ten young chefs in the world doing “crazy-ass stuff at the culinary vanguard”. He was an apprentice at Tetsuya’s and worked under Martin Benn, and has also worked at Zuma in London and New York’s WD-50.

Oscillate Wildly is located at 275 Australia St, Newtown. Ph. (61) 9517 4700

Images show a selection of dishes from Oscillate Wildly. Images 1, 3, 6, 7 courtesy of Brett Boardman – www.brettboardman.com